seppo

Hydrochloric Acid can probably remove the Chrome of your club, but I would not recommend that! The Chrome Finish has an oxide layer because it had contact to the normal air. This means the dilluted Hydrochloric Acid ( 0.1N - 1N ) is to weak without any additional Treatment of the Chrome. Perhaps you can strip the chrome with higher concentrated Hydrochloric Acid, but this acid is one of the strongest acids out there, so I would be very careful with that! Use Protection Gloves / Glasses / Overall and strip the chrome outside in fresh Air if you really want to work with 10N HCL. I am not sure if you can buy it without problems. In Germany where I come from it is classified as "Dangerous Good" and only available in a Pharmacy with a lot of bureaucracy involved. What you could try is: Scratch the Chromsurface with Sandpaper (take a fine one, you dont want to scratch the steel) then when the fine Chrome (IV) oxide Layer is gone put it into dilluted Acid (Sulfuric, Hydrochloric but not nitric acid) this should "solve" the Chrome problem, but you have to get rid of the oxide layer first. Try Vinegar or Acetic Acid on the scratched surface it could be strong enough for that purpose. Second: Although the Acids are dilluted, they are still very aggressive! You should use the Protectiongloves etc. as well.

I know my answer comes a little bit late, but I have repaired these "sky" or "idiot marks" myself with a lot of success. The First thing you need to do is buy spray paint in a can, in the colour you like. It is important, that you buy synthetic resin paint, otherwise it is possible that the old finish is starting to dissolve under the new paint which looks really ugly. Now get some fine sandpaper (I used 240) and scratch the old paint on your driver but not until you see the bare metal, all is needed is a scratched surface. The next thing is taping all the parts you dont want new paint on clean the wood very carefully so that no dust or fingerprint remains on the surface and spray the paint according to the instructions on the can. Spraying isn't that easy and you should try it out first on some worthless piece of metal, you should also spray outside when it is warm and not in the direct sunlight you cant see bad sprayed parts when everything reflects and the paint smells a little bit. It is also important to spray several layers of paint and to let the last finish dry for at least 3-4 Days. Synthetic resin paint is very shiny in comparison to acyrlic or nitro paint but drys very slow. If it isn't dry even the headcover can scratch it! If you want it really professional, strip the whole wood of the old paint, buy yourself an airgun and a compressor, and then go for it with a primer and a scratchresistant two komponent paint. But that was to expensive for my taste It also looks better if you scratch the whole wood and spray it completely in the colour you want otherwise you will have a tiny line on the wood where the old paint ends and the new one starts Hope that helps! (Oh and by the way I am doing my idiot marks myself so I cant sell the club )

Chapter One: The Grip, Five Lessons: The Modern Fundamentals of Golf, Ben Hogan... All that you wrote is right if you are more of a Pitcher than a Puncher... (Do these Terms exist in English?) What I mean with it, if you have a very step swing angle, your Grip should be the way you described it, but what about tiny, strong people with more of a sweeping swing? They dont want to push down I suppose

A Friend of mine is an ugly Putter, he has a terrible stroke. But he is rich and works at the local Golf Store (means he gets new equipment very cheap) and so he turns up with a new putter every week. His putts remain ugly though, doesnt matter if it is the "Odyssey Two Ball" or the Newport, but he does not learn anything from that. I suppose he has more then 15 Putters at home which "all didnt work for him"

Can a 7 wood really replace a 3 or 4 Iron? When I hit my 3 Iron well it is going nearly as far / farther then a 5 wood... I would go for hybrids if I were you, they are not as beautiful but much easier to hit from semi rough or even rough than a fairway wood. The Ben Hogan Hybrids are very nice, from an asthetic point of view and the result.

One Thing I always do in a terrible lie is: "punching" the shot out. That means: weight to 60 or 70 Percent on the left foot (if you are right handed) Ball more in the middle of the stance and then just a powerful Halfswing with a short follow through. This results in a low ball flight often shorter then a full swing. In terrible roughs all that counts for me is getting the damn little ball out! never try to get a 150 yard shot out of 1 feet high grass

Hi everybody! I filmed myself today on the range just to find out, that my hands are a little bit slow for my "weight shift / hip turn" move in the downswing. I have two options now, slowing my hips down (that is sth i am not able to do... I tried it, but it feels to good the way it is right now and i have memorized that move to much) or increasing my forearm swing speed (that is sth i can do ) Do you have any good advice for me on how to do that? Is dumbbell training ok (this will only train my bizeps i suppose) or is there anything better for a golfer? Thanks in advance

I have this Spinning Disease too I am slowing my swing speed down at the moment like mad, just focusing on my hips and impact position. This shortens my ball flight but the irons are a lot more accurate now and the hips are not swinging around so fast anymore. A good drill is the "Feet together Drill". Stand with your feets together and make a full swing. If your hips turn you will immediately feel it.

It is also possible that you release your wrists to early and therefore increase the loft of the club. If it isn't your release it could be the way you tee up the ball. Tee up low: low ball flight, more spin. Tee up high: higher ball flight, less spin I wouldn't move the ball away from your left feet, this works for an iron punch shot but it gets difficult with the driver and can result in a slice. I am not sure if it is a shaft problem. The diffrent clubs you used probably had all different shafts on them, (although they were all regular) so you should have seen some difference in the ball flight.

I love my 3 Iron! I could not play golf without it. I use it as often as possible on the course. But as Parker0065 allready posted, it is very hard not to put to much force in the swing or grip, when i do that the 3 Iron is only flying as far as my 5 Iron and that is sth I really hate

Hi there! I have a special question for all those clubmakers out there. I have played my wedges and some of the shorter irons very often on the range. The range i go to is very sandy and after a few thousand balls the chrome finish is gone now. Is there a way of rechroming the clubs? I suppose it could be possible with some sort of electrolysis but i am not sure if a normal clubmaker is offering such services. Am i doomed to play with those dark "non-chromed" clubs? I dont want to buy new irons, i love my MP60 to much. Second question I have: my wedges are "Spinmilled". They have not only lost their chrome but also a lot of their tiny "spinmilled" grooves. I know they are only legal without those grooves but can i get those back? Thx in advance

My dream foursome... Very easy: Gisele Bündchen. Kate Moss. Heidi Klum. some nice and hot golf course at the beach, and then I give them some private lessons in: how to swing the big stick smoothly after the small ball... Oh god sorry for that. Why would I want to play with a pro?! Just to see how bad I really am?

The feeling of the Black Series is awesome, but i tested them with some older lake balls (the ones i use on the round ) and i dont like that feeling so much. I think you should play a high quality ball with the BS and thats sth i dont do. XG #9 is heavier in the head. It is a toe weighted blade / mallet mix, and good for my hand position (slight forward press)

Got a putter fitting today and the one i bought is the Odyssey XG White Hot #9. Not the amazing look of a scotty or black series but better price and much better results for my strange way of putting

Hi everyone, I want to buy a new putter and came across the "Black Series". Has anyone tested them allready? I like the look of #1, but it is so expensive... 299€!

Oh I am so happy that someone else also has this problem It is all mental I suppose, when I have a slight Opportunity for a Birdie / Eagle, I mess it all up and finish Boggey or sth like that. For Example: Power Drive on a Par 4, Perfect Distance for my Sand Wedge. Kept it to far on the left side of the green, missed the 40 Feet Putt, missed the 5 feet Putt missed the 10 Inch Putt... Enough said :) But even Worse was the Par 5 yesterday, Eagle Pitch was possible, hitted it to thin, so the Ball sailed across the Green in the Bunker, Made the Bunker shot to short so it ended up in the Foregreen, made a bad chip and i was back there from where I tried the "Eagle Pitch" I hate golf and golf hates me

Thats it! Oh damn! I was so stupid, when Gloria stops singing I wont have that Slice anymore! Thx a lot I will try your drills tomorrow. They sound pretty good to me, lets see if it works.

Hi everybody, I have a Swing question and I hope you can help me with it. I filmed myself and what I have seen looks in some Parts wrong. I am Shaking my hips like a Mad Salsa Dancer! It is not the 90° Shoulder Rotation / 45° Hip Rotation in the Backswing that Tiger has, it is more 100° Schoulder to 60° Hips and when it comes to the Downswing, I turn my Hips a lot earlier then Mister Woods does, which means I come from the Outside in my Downswing pulling my arms a little bit up to prevent a fat Cut Shot. Do you have any good drills that stop me from doing this? I tried a "Feets together, Full Swing" Drill, but perhaps there is something better. Thanks in advance

Lighter then true temper but stiffer? I am not sure but try the Nippon Steel Shafts they are lighter. But if you really have 100mph i would stick with your DG R300 or even try the stiffer version.

I taped mine today... I always thought that I play nice but that swing looks more like a tennis punch than anything else I hate that digicam!

Not really funny sharkgolf! They stole money in the end when you think about it and that is nothing to smile about! Very Sad that some people dont have the honor and etiquette thats needed for this sport. My example of cheating is also not very funny: A friend of mine an me played behind the last flight of a "Beginners Tournament" where only the people with Hcp 54-45 are allowed to play. That last flight was playing so terrible it took them nearly 10 to 12 strokes on each and every hole. The last hole is a Par 3 Island green my buddie and I came to the tee box when they were doing "Practice Shots" in a tournament! They tried to hit the green and after the fifth ball that did not drop in the water finally landed on the green, they were all shouting: "nice I take that one the rest was just Practice!" Can you imagine who won the tournament? This strange flight. They all had roundabout 56 stableford points and now have Hcp 36 or sth.! Luckily the prizes on these Beginner Tournaments aren't the best: some MikeTec Balls or a Rulebook and so on. Nothing expensive like a trip to a french Castle or TagHeuer Watches

I hate it to play with sunglasses, but in Winter and Spring when the Sun is low I have to use them. I Wear my normal RayBan Glasses but I feel them on my ears and nose after 2 Hours of Golf and then they start to disturb me more then the low Sun. So whenever possible I try not to wear them.

I waste so many points on the green it is ugly and annoying! The first Putt always comes up short, the second in response a little bit longer but not on the perfect line and the third is always a 5-10 inch putt that drops, but that means: Par? Not with me I am more the bogey/double bogey player. But my long irons are 3-4 are perfect so I dont care about the rest

I do love the Mizuno MP 60. A perfect Muscle Back Iron Nice to look at (nearly like a blade) and so soft when you hit the ball right

I had the same problem with my MP 60. I called the guys from Mizuno and they told me to use very fine Steel-Wool! I tried it on my PW and it works without damaging the rest of the chrome cover. Another way is "Scotch Brite" Steel Cleanser but i only tried that once because i think it is a little bit to aggressive. The best way to keep the rust spots away is to play a lot with your irons dry them well with a towel after the round and use (Sewing Machine/ Gun) Oil every now and then to keep the moisture away.