Quack

The metallurgy differences are not opinion. The rest is imho

Golf works squared me away. Thanks for the info...put the first shaft into use and its a beauty.

I was a big fan of the 488 and 588 wedges and launcher 460 for a time.

This won't be a popular opinion but as im not into the marketing or trying to justify personal purchases i can be totally honest. There are very few blades you can buy today that are of similar quality to what you have. I don't think anyone of them are made in the US...dont think you can buy US made blades anymore period but could be wrong. I hope im wrong. The real Hogan is no more...just a shadow importing clubs and using the old name iirc. The Mizuno and Miura blades are a good place to start. My tip is to look into the so called forging process used in the far east and rebranded by the american makers these days. Hit them next to your Hogans and be the judge yourself. Vacuum cast, form forged whatever is not the same as hammer forged if you want to play a forged club its worth looking into. They dont feel the same...but dont take my word for it. Hit them...call experts like the iron factory and get their opinion. Congrats on the retirement by the way!!! FWIW the easiest to play blades I've ever hit are in order...MP-14 and Wilson Staff Tour Blades...FG17 and the predecessors. May be worth buying a used set and having them re-chromed and reshafted etc. if it suits your fancy

Is this a local issue to me in Northern Mi? I left the game for about 10 years and upon returning this year, several of my old haunts have gone cart only...i.e no walking. Our season is just starting and im looking at memberships but this is a deal breaker for me. Im a big fan of playing twilight and walking on weeknights and am getting pretty discouraged. Of the 4 closest courses to me...3 are carts only. What gives? Does no one walk anymore?

I left the game for a decade but prior to my departure i played there several times. Very nice track and you could get decent deals on greens fees from time to time.

Michigan has been hit particularly hard. The area I grew up in, in SE Mi. has lost several very nice private clubs and munis. Its honestly getting worse every year. I live in northern Mi now and it seems like every year we have less and less to play. The issue up here is a major decline in year round population and frankly a decline state wide in golfers. Id like to think its the bubble bursting from when golf went hollywood in the early 2000s but some of the courses this state has lost were 100 years old and irreplaceable. Bottom line...Golf is in decline and it breaks my heart

Great topic...I grew living on, as a member of, and working at a country club. It was full of them. Everyone is "a couple over" when they play alone LOL. Honestly that club maybe had a dozen legit single digit handicappers not including the pros. The biggest one i used to see were guys grossly over exaggerating their driving distance...like it was a test of their manhood.

Less than 2 strokes better 😉 Due to clubs no doubt I’ll stop being a jerk…wasn’t my intention. this a great forum…look forward to getting to know everyone

Wow two strokes…with laser rangefinders, YouTube lessons and modern balls and video recording in every phone. Thank your new clubs lol. Persimmon to titanium…I rest my case All of that tech and it’s within a couple three puts. Thank God for shaft fitting

Why aren’t handicaps lower today?

Pros play what they are paid to play and when Macgregor was paying…pros were a playing. I honestly don’t think older blades were harder to hit. The Maltby website calls the staff tour blade fg-17s game improvement and they are basically the same club head as the haig ultras were. For the record I put no faith in the Maltby playability numbers I don’t view the eye 2 or silver Scot as old really. You may not believe me but I still play eye 2s and titleist pt 8.5, 15, and 20 degree woods. Purchased new by my dad for me in 1992. Ping has adjusted the irons from blue to white dot and reshafted once to a .25 over to be fair. I play around switching drivers like everyone but what I gain in distance I loose in accuracy. I stepped away from the game for about 8 or ten years but did play a launcher 460 for a while at 45 inches and a 975d with a pro force 65 for a while. Pt fairway woods have never left the bag nor has my 35.5 anser 2. Huge drivers don’t lower my scores… A hook hooks and slice slices. my swing sucks and that hurts my score lol

Data which does not reflect the amount of strokes to get the ball in the hole. Look at handicap data and draw your own conclusion. *We need to select a $500 custom shaft with the right spin characteristics to fix fix your grotesque swing flaws. thats called the tail wagging the dog. as far as blades go…it’s my opinion that the quality Hogan, Wilson, MacGregor, and Japanese forgings are far superior to what’s being passed off as forging these days. id bet dollars to dog poop that many of the so called Nike and titleist blades in tour bags over the recent times were made elsewhere and stamped. Pretty sure that’s common knowledge. I don’t really care as I don’t play forged clubs anyhow but it drives me crazy sometimes thinking about the gimmicks

Golf is far and away the most gimmick ridden sport in the face of the earth. The only things that are close are penis enlargement and hair loss. The brands have for the most part have all gotten so big they need to convince buyers to get new clubs every year or two to sustain the shareholders. One of the things that drives me nuts is the planned obsolescence of clubs through the use of metal and paint finishes that won’t hold up for more than a year or two. Decals, holograms, glued on weights, screws…you name it. I know…let’s raise the prices, jack the lofts, sell everybody 3 wedges and a hybrid. Thanks industry I’m 38 and have been playing golf since I was five and the only major tech jumps I’ve seen are in order… 1) the ball…no contest. Modern balls are longer and straighter. I think the USGA and PGA will impose boundaries honestly. 2) metal woods replacing persimmon 3)waterproof shoes honorable mention…graphite shafts. They have gotten better and are light enough to allow even the tepid and weak to swing 46 inch water balloons. irons? Nope…tell yourself whatever you want but imho modern clubs are not easier to hit than 845s and ping eye 2s. Old blades were far superior than the vacuum cast Chinese made “forgings” being sold today by the majors(except mizuno and couple smaller brands that still do it right) What’s in the bag…Titleist “prototype” I laugh there is a reason average handicaps haven’t changed much in the past 60 years… the thing I love about golf is that it’s not pay to play. You can either swing it or you can’t. If you can’t…no club is going to help.

Hey Everyone, Im re-shafting a 3 wood with a FEMCO combo flex R/S steel shaft. These are .335 parallel steel shafts and are trim to flex. Here is my problem...I cant find trim charts for these anymore. Does anyone have any clue as to how much I need to trim from the tip to achieve a S300 ish flex? FWIW the steps are as follows...12.5" to the first step and 12 2" steps. Any help is greatly appreciated. Im thinking 1 inch from the tip but for some reason i have a feeling they might be 2 inches for a stiff...

I picked up one of the new ping L8 bags they re-released. Fantastic and easily under the 5lb listed weight. Almost as nice as my US made original from the mid 90s...but still a very decent bag for walking the course.

I’d have to travel over an hour to get any for one…simply seeking some thoughts on club length based on my static measurements. What does OT mean?

I won’t be taking any lessons. My goal is to get back to a single digit handicap which I think is doable with practice and patience. just curious about specs off that baseline.

Hey everyone, getting back into the game for the first time in a decade and need some thoughts on iron specs. I’ve shrank a bit as I’ve gotten to be middle aged but my current specs are 6’’1 with a wrist to floor of 37. I used to be a solid 6’2 1/2 and play to a 7 or 8 handicap. I played at that time a .5 inch longer maroon dot i5. I struggled with pulling irons left a bit but could it somewhat under control would a standard length eye 2 Ping white dot be a decent place to start? Wondering if I’m too tall for a standard length...some charts say I’m good some say no good. 6’1 with a 37wtf. What say the experts

Awesome…what should I do about the PT 3 and 5? Smaller yet! just to make sure we are on the same page…I’m talking 1992 PT not the later ones

Other than a PW of course I use only a 55. It helped me get consistent with the various shots as I only had one wedge to learn. One of the things that helped me break into the single digits some years back. im pretty old school though. I carry 1,3,5 wood and 2-sw.

Modern 3 woods are very large compared to the early metal woods and persimmons. I’m wondering about hybrid covers maybe

Hey Guys, i play ping irons that are .5 inch over standard. Is it as critical to do my driver, 3, and 5 wood as well? They are steel shafted and standard length of that matters at all.

Hey Everyone, I play older small woods…the original Titleist PTs. In need to find some head covers that arnt made for today’s giant woods. The modern ones fall off. Any ideas? thx