glebert

You could always get custom fitted and have them built halfway between. Also, since there is no standard for flexes maybe if you try different brands/models of shaft you will find a soft S or a stiff R that fits you very well. Also maybe look at a stiffer tipped shaft (high kick) in R flex. To me it feels like a stiffer tipped shaft (with softer flex) gives me control without losing feel, but that is probably all in my head.

I've got four sets if you include my vacation clubs at my parent's house. I'm thinking about selling my FX2s to a buddy. Purefit 1020CBs on Rifle graphite (4-SW, gamers) Ram Laser FX on Exilim Gold graphite (2-SW, 4i currently broken) Ram FX2 GT steel on factory graphite (4-SW) Golden Ram Axial Tour Grind on DG S400 (3-PW, vacation clubs)

FYI, if it is an OEM stock shaft sometimes they use a different kind of epoxy and you really can't pull the shaft. My first pull I ended up destroying the shaft trying to get it out (a Tour Edge 3w). The next one (aftermarket shaft from an Orlimar driver) pulled smooth as silk.

For a graphite shaft I believe that you should only pull, not twist. FWIW, I've pulled shafts by heating the head then stepping on the head with some heavy boots and gently pulling the shaft out with my hands. I'm sure if I did it enough times I would screw up the head or shaft.

I had a set of minty Apex BH Grinds and I sometimes found myself going out to my car and night to visit them. After I found that I wasn't playing them anymore I sold them to a new Hobbit..I mean golfer.

I love components, but I build my own. For the average golfer I think it is better to buy a properly fit set of name brand clubs.

You may not be able to get an R to a L, but trimming the tip less and then butt trimming to length will soften the flex. This is essentially softstepping the shaft. The rule of thumb I have read is that every softstepping will soften the flex about 1/3 of a full flex. Putting a 6i shaft into a GW would be something like 4 or 5 softsteps, which would be about 1 1/2 flex, so the regular would get close to a Lite, but the rule of thumb might be getting stretched out too far at that point, there really isn't a way to predict how it will play without trying it. If you can get someone to install it for cheap I would say put the 6i shaft in without tip trimming and then butt cut to length. If it turns out to be too soft you could pull the shaft and tip it and then add an extension to get the length back. You can add length back to the butt, but not the tip.

According to Golfworks OEM shaft replacement guide the Exsar IS2 is a parallel tip shaft, so tip trimming would be the way to go. Exsar Blue is also parallel. FYI the Blue is a little heavier (68g vs. 62g) and has a bigger butt diameter (0.618 vs. 0.610) than the IS2. You probably won't notice the weight in a wedge and can maybe compensate for the diameter with less tape or a thinner grip. Interestingly the guide says that for steel shafts on the MX-25 they are a taper tip shaft, which would mean that you could only butt trim and the flex would probably be very soft. Luckily you don't have that problem.

Either 5w or 7w, I haven't been carrying a 3w lately. 5w is about 220, 7w about 205.

I thought TLT was something different, something like a mathematically defined progression of club lengths that is different from the standard 1/2" per club progression. Single length iron sets have been made by a few companies, I think 1 iron golf is the most notable at this time, but I know Tommy Armour did them long ago as well. edit: Joseph types faster than me

I think that is the right thing to do as long as you are also shortening the club to a similar length as the corresponding fw.

Related to Stacey's post, if you are building a club I think it is easier to add a tip weight than use lead tape. Some people also put rat glue into the head to add weight, you can search for threads on that here or other forums. MWT does make it easier if you can get it and get the heavier weights.

If you go to myostrichgolf.com Tim has a swingweight spreadsheet (lower right on the main page) where you can plug in the head weight, shaft weight and length, etc. and estimate what the swingweight would be. If you add weight to the head you will usually soften the flex a little. You might want to trim the shaft as if you were building a 3w considering the extra weight and shorter length.

Looks like it happened a couple of years ago. Here was something I found: http://www.worldgolf.com/blogs/golf-..._t_be_dead_for I don't think that means that the products are the SAME, just that True Temper makes money no matter what you buy.

I play golf to have fun. I don't enjoy playing SGI irons, so I play more of a player's CB; have also gamed classic blades (even though I kinda stink). For me it doesn't seem to impact my scores, but it does increase my enjoyment of the game.

Couldn't see that comin'

I would get your clubs bent, and then use the "savings" to finance your golf for the next x months. The kid is going to be priority #1, for time and $, but you have to have some "you" time as well.

From what I've heard soft stepping once will soften the flex by about 1/3 of a flex, perhaps so little that you wouldn't notice. You can also get shaft extensions that go into the butt for a couple of bucks a club if you want to get the extra length without softstepping. edit: if you regularly play R flex maybe you want to softstep twice and cut them 1/2 inch.

I say if "someone..owes (you) a new set of irons" you'd better get them to cough up now. Wait a year and they will conveniently remember the situation differently and maybe buy you a wedge.

From what I've heard there is no guarantee that pulling the shaft won't damage it, at which point you have no driver at all. Or you may find that you liked the 907 better, and repeat pullings will compromise the shaft at some point. I would consider a new shaft for the FTiQ, don't know if you want to shell the $$ for a Proto (those things are crazy expensive).

Can you take the Cobra to a shop and have them check the loft and flex? I would then try to get something that matches in a conforming club.

I guess some of the Acers are Callaway clones, but I don't think the XK is (at least to my eye). The "clone vs. knockoff" debate is something that can be argued ad naseum. For me as long as they don't violate any patents or copyrights, and the quality and price are good I'm happy.

If you don't mind going non-OEM you can get an Acer XK 4w for $50 new from Hireko. It is a pretty tall face (36mm) and you can choose your shaft and length. I've got an Acer XP 3w that is like a mini-driver that I can also hit off the deck. I was going to replace it with a TEE but it couldn't beat out the Acer. Here is a link: http://www.hirekogolf.com/hireko/ord...1283/0/0/0/0/0

A nano is basically a flash drive player, right? I read a blogger who did some sort of bath of WD40 to save his flash drive after he put it through the wash, but IIRC it didn't last forever. Here's a link to the post: http://jamesfallows.theatlantic.com/...d_usb_dept.php

From what I've heard a 160 yard 7 iron would definitely put you into a stiff rather than an X, unless you have a very fast transition. Your yardage and SS are similar to mine and I play stiff just fine. When I have hit X100s they are too stiff for my liking.