beung

My camera only does 30 fps, I have some software which deinterlaces it to 60 FPS but even the 300 fps would be awesome.

The Casio EX-F1.... http://www.exilim.com/intl/ex_f1/features2.html

I actually find the opposite to be true, I stand behind most of the slicers to see where they are lining up and their feet are aimed at where their club is or even right of that. So now they have to swing across their body causing them to slice. Open stance will give you more room for your body to clear and most of the good players tend to play a fade, some play a draw but hardly anyone plays a straight ball.

You hit your PW 130+ yrds? What do you hit your SW? For me my PW I hit 125 yrd max, that is my carry distance and I hardly ever get any roll on anything lower then a 9i. My SW is 100yrd max carry, so I have a 51 bent to 52 and it goes 115yrds carry - this is also where I start losing overall distance because of back spin.

This thread should have been what can you beat Tiger in as bad as he would beat you in golf :P The only thing that might come close is probably lacrosse

Well I think there are different levels or degrees of how far or close you point the finger towards your body and it probably also has to do with other factors of your swing/setup. Like most things in golf the extremes rarely work, you have to find the amount that works best for you but I do believe that there are certain guildlines that can be followed to help you find yours.

See now there lies the issue with buying a head and shaft seperately. In order for you to put the proper shaft in, you have to have some launch monitor time because you are going to want to put the best shaft for you in the head you bought. When buying a club off the shelf, it comes with a shaft that has some monitor time built in from the factory. The shaft in it is matched to perform the way that 90% of the golfs would like for a reasonable cost. This gives you a baseline on what to look for in a re-shaft. So if you go to your local retailor and hit the same club you bought and it performs good for you then you can ask for a shaft that is close to the one that it comes with from the factory. Now if it doesn't, then you are likely to be stuck with paying for some launch monitor time, anywhere from $50-$100, to make sure you get the proper shaft for you. Not sure how much money you think you are going to save on just buying the head and then getting a shaft put in but buying just the head better be cheaper then $100, since the shaft itself is likely to cost you around that.

The swing looks like ones I see on teenagers...good free swing but too free to build any consistancy. Not enough structure in your swing, as mentioned by others: 1) Too much leg movement, the more moving parts the more things to go wrong. 2) Right hand grip is way too much under the club. 3) Try using what some call the "power trigger". See how on his right hand there is a gap betwen the index finger and the rest of the fingers of his hand. Should help you control the club more and feel more connected to the club.

For me I have been finding that my grip, so in part my right wrist, was getting too low - that is to say that the barrel of my gun was pointing too much towards the ball and not close enough to my body. I was at the range last night and I tried raising my hands a bit higher so my right wrist wasn't so cocked and this was helping me from hinging my right wrist too much and flipping my right wrist at impact. This was causing me to have too much hook and sometimes a duck hook on my drives. I was hitting some nice fades and for me the reliable fade is what I have been working towards for the last 2-3 years. It comes and goes but basically I want to eliminate the left side from all my shots.

Sorry but sports and regular jobs are completely different. There is barely anything done in the regular job field that can't be taught by someone or from a book. Atheletics is like art, you can teach some one how to paint but you can't teach them how to be an artist. There is stuff that Tiger and most pro atheletes do that can't be taught. I am sure that given the same time it took me to get where I am, Tiger wouldn't have much trouble doing my job. I am 100% certain that I could spend every remaining sec of my life playing/practising golf and I wouldn't even be close to his level or any tour golfer.

Don't you mean higher Meow? Man it would be funny to outdrive everyone in your 4some with this club....

Well if I was on the tour and I won a major without Tiger in the field I would consider it a personal asterisk. The win would feel less gratifying because he isn't in the field. I am sure it will be in the back of everyone's mind when some one other then Tiger wins only because he isn't in the field. There is always going to be that what if question. There will not be an official asterisk but there will always be doubts.

I agree with Avid, GIRs are where it's at. Even if you hit 100% of the fairways but only hit 20% of the GIRs, your score wouldn't change. Every additional green you hit will probably shave atleast one stroke from your score considering you are 2 putting every green anyways. Get a single wedge for now, I would say an SW. Work on your chipping, the better you chip the less putts you will need. I am not saying you need to be inside 6ft everytime but the odd one you get inside that will give you more real chances at one putts. Get better at your approach shots with your 6-8 iron. If you hit a pretty good driver, weather you are on the fairway or just in the rough, you need to know how to hit the green. Even if you are 70 ft away, generally that's better then being 30 ft and on the fringe, especially if you are an ok putter. Play a safer approach shot, play for your misses not for a prefect shot. Play your draw/fade or whatever your ball flight is to make sure you end up on the green, not by the the pin.

The practise part is probably more important then the leasons themselves. This coming from some one who basically has a self build swing and only taken 4 leasons in my whole life. To practise the drills your instructure gives you, is where the improvement comes from. Also don't take too many leason too close together. Engrain what your instructor has taught you before going back to get something new to work on. You don't want to work on too many things at once. I would say a leason a month is about right.

I personally like all the Rifled shafts over the step shafts.... Flighted VS non flighted, the feel isn't really any different but you will notice a higher ball flight on the flighted. I play the PX 5.5 on my MP67s and they feel solid more so then the rifle flighted 6.0 I used to play on my TM TLs. They both feel good but I would take the PX over the rifle flighed, I am not sure how the flighted PX are. I always found the S300 to be wippier then the rifle 6.0, especially near the clubhead.

The thing about TM drivers it that there are so damn many of them that you can find one lightly used for cheap and because they come out with new ones so often there are always used ones on the market from people upgrading all the time.

Take it from some one who is a gear junky himself, you don't need the best gear to be the best player at the level that 99% of the people who play golf. Just listen to what your instructor has to say, he will probably know best as he has seen your swing and probably knows what your potential is. I just don't want you buying into the marketing and wasting money on a driver that isn't going to be any better and possibly be worse then your current one.

Don't take this the wrong way but what is wrong with the driver? Is it doing something that you don't like or are you doing something that you don't like? Is your current driver optimum for you, probably not, but if you replaced it with a brand new driver and was prefectly fitted to you how many strokes would it shave? If your index is current then I doubt it is a result of equipment. Are you currently taking leasons? When you talk about swing developement and breaking bad habits, who is guiding you through your developement? If you are not taking leasons, take the $200 and go get some leasons to establish a good foundation to build on. Once you get a swing established then you can start looking at equipment that suites your game. Your teaching pro is going to be able to tell you if your driver is not suited for you and probably give you some recomendations about what to look for when you go to upgrade.

I wish I had a caddie, then they can just tell me the distance :P I have a lazer range finder, I went with lazer because I like the idea of it telling the distance to anything I can get a sight line on. I like knowing how far a fairway runs out when there is a dogleg or how far something is like a bunker or water. There are only two downsides to them, one is the size, its a little on the big side and the other is that even if it's accurate to 1 inch, you still have to make the shot

With irons from the grass I always try and hit the ball first then the ground, so that means you contact the ball on a decending blow no matter what iron you have in your hand. If you hit the ground then ball the ground or grass can alter your club path and clubface. If you sweep an iron you will be inconsistant, sometime you will hit it thin and sometimes you will hit it fat - Hit ball then ground. It's also harder to control the spin and your trajectory of the ball if you don't hit the ball first.

A bit of a reverse pivot on your back swing, that could be causing your push/fade. Your left wrist looks too cupped, I would try and flatten it out at the top of your swing.

So is that to say your good hits are draws or are they straight or fades? Drivers don't generally have offset, some do, but rather they have open, neutral or closed face angles. The BB 460 has a 1deg closed face angle, to give you an idea most TM drivers are somewhere around 2-3deg closed. If your mishits are near the toe and you have a nasty hook, thats part swing flaw and part what the club is built to do. The club has what they call the gear effect, which if a ball is hit out towards the toe the ball spins in a counter clockwise rotation (for right handers) causing the ball to curve from the right and back into the middle. You hit the ball near the heel of the club and the ball will spin in a clockwise rotation. I would just be carefull with going with neutral or open faced drivers, you really need to go hit a bunch of drives and see which on works best.

The place you bought them from (assuming it's a retail store) should custom fit them for you.

I hope you don't fight a slice or have issues with getting the ball in the air with your driver. The TP version has an open face angle and if the shaft is any thing like my 425 TP, then the shaft has a pretty high kick point.

Yours....and you get a new one. I suggest you buy a nice warm blanket and comfy pillow when you pick up your new driver too Personally I don't think there is much difference in the heads of drivers between women and men's drivers, mainly just color. It's the shaft that is the major difference. Women just don't swing as fast as the average man so they need a shaft that is going to be better for their slower swing.