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Posted
Hi everyone,

I'm a mid-high handicap player using Cleveland Launcher LP's right now. I hit the irons pretty decent, but I hate the thick top line and the huge offset on the irons. When hitting of a tee, and to a lesser extent the fairway, I draw the ball, but I want to keep the ball flight straight and draw the ball only when needed. I tried the MP60's on the simulator and the ball straight seemed pretty straight. I was hitting off one of those TrueStrike mats or something, and I just feel like those mats are a lot more forgiving than a real fairway would be. I shoot in the mid 90s on a par 73 course, so do you think the cavity/blades would be a bad idea? I really don't know how I can test them out on a real course, but they feel really good when trying them out indoors. Does anyone have any opinions on the MP57's vs. the MP60s or do you think I should forget about blades for a while since I have a really high handicap? I do have at least a few pars and a birdie or two per round but some of my holes are just horrible (I mean horrible as in getting a 10 on a par 5, 8 on a par 4, things like that)...I really like the mizuno blades because they have a sharp leading edge and they sit really nice on the ground, I like the look at address...Does anyone have any advice about these clubs, or about the Callaway X-Forged? They all seemed to hit really well....they are really expensive, so if anyone has any advice on other sets that would be appreciated as well....I just like clubs with a thin top line and a sharp leading edge that sits kind of flat on the ground...Thanks in advance for any advice!

SS

Posted
I think there's another post on switching to forged from cavity backs that you might find helpful. As indicated in that post, I'm experimenting with the X Forged after using the X20 Tours. I like the no offset look of the X Forged, and may well end up with some sort of mixed set, 7 and up in the forged, 4 through 6 in the x 20s.

You will hear folks say that a mid to high handicapper shouldn't be hitting the forged, but I don't think one size fits all in this area.

If you find the cost of a complete set daunting, which is understandable, just order two or three of the more lofted forged to start with and see how you do. Far less devastating investment if you find it ain't gonna work out in the end...Just a thought.

Posted
Just one additional thought relative to your question, I love the look and feel of the X Forged. After hitting them for a couple of weeks, the X 20s look like shovels sitting there.

Posted
Yeah, I like the look of all three, but I should probably looking at the one that is the most forgiving of the three. From reviews, it seems that the MP-57 is the most forgiving, but I haven't hit that iron yet. I think at address it looks relatively similar to the MP-60, which I like, but the X-Forged sit the best on the ground I think. Does anyone strongly feel that forged blades/cavity blades will be much too hard for a high-handicap player to hit? I hit my irons pretty well (especially 4, 5, 6 for some reason rather than 7, 8, 9) and my 3 iron is much better than my 3 hybrid...

Posted
it's totally up to you. i really like blades as well.
but until i can hit most of my shots on the sweet spot, i won't change.
besides i've only had my x20 tour for 3 months.
i'm gonna commit and play them till i'm at least a 10 or so.

Launcher 460 10.5° <BB Solution 130 R>
Wishon 949MC 16.5° <SK Fiber Tour Trac 80 R>
3DX DC Ironwood 20°, 23° <UST SR2 R>
MX-23 5-PW <KBS Tour R>
Vokey 250.08, SM54.10, SM58.08 <DG Wedge> Callie 33.75"TLT Series 4MOI matched


Posted
The main difference between the 57's and the 60's is that the 60's are a partial cavity back while the 57's are a full cavity back. The 57's will be a little more forgiving for you in that sense. Besides that point however, the irons are very similar. The offset is ever so slightly greater in the 67's, but it won't make much difference. THe toplines are going to be almost the exact same.

Just judging by your handicap, I would suggest the 57's to you. However, choosing the 60's will not be a whole lot different. Both are excellent iron sets and I think you will cherish either one.

Monster Tour 10.5* w/ Redboard 63
FP400f 14.5* w/ GD YSQ
Idea Pro 18* w/ VS Proto 80s
MP FLi-Hi 21 w/ S300
CG1 BP w/ PX 6.0 SM 54.11 SM 60.08 Sophia 33"


Posted
I have been shopping for new irons all winter and finally pulled the trigger. I am the happy owner of some new custom-fitted Mizuno MP 60s. Changed from an old set of Mizuno TZoid Pro IIs. Loved those irons as well. But I basically shopped both the MP 60s and MP 57s. I usually like the newest stuff available, but I kept going back and forth between the two. Contrary to what the last poster said, the topline on the MP 57s is slightly thicker. I didn't think it would matter to me, but after several times trying both at the same time, mentally knowing that the topline was thicker on the MP57 was thicker bothered me. You will notice the thickness, only if you have both models in hand. But it is ever so slight a difference that many may not notice. So I gave up the extra forgiveness and went with the MP 60's. The offset is also slightly more in the 57s by a hundredth (???) of an inch or so? Hardly noticeable, but I'm sure it contributes to the forgiveness. I may be wrong, but I thought the sole was also slightly thicker in the 57s. Ball flight in the 57s were also slightly higher. With the higher handicap, I'd recommend the 57s to you, but both are great clubs.

Good luck!
Note: This thread is 6518 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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  • Posts

    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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