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Mitch Cumstein

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Everything posted by Mitch Cumstein

  1. I think that is one of the bigger misconceptions around "working the ball," specifically that it is a skill you should only start working on once you can consistently hit the ball straight. Thing is, nobody consistently hits the ball straight. The idea is to reduce the margin of error in your shot. In other words, if you try to hit a draw and you aim down the right side of the fairway, chances are you will go left, worse case straight, but you are not very likely to go right. In my opinion, once you start making decent contact on your swing (i.e. you're not too worried about whether you will get the ball in the air), you should start trying to learn to put a little draw and/or fade on the ball during your practice sessions.
  2. After reiterating all the caveats above about getting personalized instruction, etc., here is a drill my instructor gave me along with a swing thought (use at your own risk): 1. "Penny and Towel" Drill: From your regular stance, put a towel about 2-3 inches behind your ball and a penny (or tee if hitting from grass) about 2-3 inches in front of your ball. The trick is to hit the ball and the penny without hitting the towel. Focusing on hitting the penny forces you to hit down and through the ball. 2. "Buttons to the ball" Swing Thought: When working on the drill above, I try to feel like my shirt buttons near my neck are moving down towards to ball with my downswing. I have a tendancy to lift up (by straightening my front leg too early) and focusing on keeping my chest down helps me stay in the shot. Again, your mileage may very, but these are the drills I've been working on to get those tasty divots and good compression.
  3. Right now I'm playing with 2006 Nike ONE Platinums. Found them on sale for $25/dozen when they were clearing out stock for the 2007s.
  4. Cobra SS 310 Tour. 10.5 with a Aldila NV65-R 44.5" shaft. I also have a Cobra 10.5 454 Comp with a stiff V2 and an R7 425 9.5 with a stiff YS6+, but for whatever reason I feel more comfortable with the smaller head. Plus the faces on the 454 and the R7 are a little too closed. Mess with my head.
  5. I recently lost about 25 lbs (210 - 185). Ate less, lifted more, and walked on the course. I really wouldn't worry about getting too big, or muscle bound, to play golf. Check out Jason Zuback... Walking the course is great for losing weight. Especially if you carry your bag (no pull carts). Walking 5 miles while carrying 20 lbs does wonders.
  6. The local Golf Galaxy around here offers re-grooving for around $42. So it can definitely be done.
  7. Usually not. A recommendation to get a shorter driver shaft is usually driven by an intent to increase control and increase the likelihood of an on-center hit, and not so much by phyisical attributes (such as being short or having long arms). Its a better idea to get specifically fitted for your irons, rather than trying to apply specifications from a driver fitting.
  8. I don't know how to post a reference to another thread, but the thread is titled "Vokey Oilcan - Need to refinish." The thread answers the rest of the questions above as well. http://thesandtrap.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5932
  9. Cola is for removing the Oil Can finish. If you have the club down to the raw metal, you can heat it up with a torch and submerse it in oil. There is another thread that discusses this process extensively.
  10. I played Honeybrook on Sunday morning. Very nice, second tier course. For this time of year the course was in spectacular shape. Broad Run is a bit pricier, but I haven't played it yet this season so I don't know what the conditions are like (although most courses are holding up well this summer here). I'd also consider the Golf Course at Glen Mills and Wyncote. If you want some in-depth reviews of the courses around Philadelphia, the Philadelphia Inquirer's Joe Logan has a ton of reviews posted on line.
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