schlebrock

Most of the irons you're mentioning aren't going to be any more friendly than your Ping i3+ irons. The possible exception would be the AP2's. So why it's always nice to get new golf clubs, I'm not sure that you're going to accomplish what you want to if you purchase any of those iron sets. It sounds like you seem to gravitate towards more traditional lookng sets and none of those sets are really game improvement. Since you're a Ping player, you may want to look at the i15's if you can get past their looks. They'll be more forgiving than your current i3+ blades or any of the irons sets you described. Hope that helps and good luck with your decision.

Actually, they do....the Ping Anser. They have a super-game improvement set in the K15's, a game improvement set in the G15's, a competition set in the i15's, a competition set in the Anser's and a tour set in the S56's. I'm not sure why you think they need any additional models?

Cutting your R11 shaft down to 44.00" from the normal 45.75" won't cause any changes in either kickpoint or flex stiffness. Also, please note that if you're ordering a R11 TP version, the finished length of the club is 45.25". That's because the shaft is 0.50" shorter (but trimmed) than the shafts in the 45.75" non-TP versions. FYI, all premium shafts are designed to be butt trimmed to reach the desired length without affecting playability. This allows shafts to be used in either drivers or fairway woods. The only time that you may affect shaft stiffness or kickpoint is when you but trim a shaft over 4.00". Even then, flex and kickpoint changes would be minimal. However, as others have stated in previous posts, you will reduce the swingweight of the club when you shorten the shaft's length. The good news is that you'll have the ability adjust that in the R11. You can get your swingweight back up to normal levels by adding heavier head and toe weights to the R11 head if you choose to do so. Hope that helps. -Schlebrock-

I've purchased a number of Mizuno and Ping iron sets over the years. Mizuno's were purchased for their feel. Ping's were purchased for their accuracy and forgiveness. Since I hadn't found that perfect blend, I thought why not combine Ping's accuracy and forgiveness with that Mizuno forged feel. That led me to the logical conclusion of trying the Anser's. Yes, they are a little more expensive but I go through a retailer that's able to offer significant discounts from the MSRP. So, in the end they're not much more expensive than other premium iron sets. They don't quite have the buttery feel of some of Mizuno's offerings but I think they're close. Plus, I'm more accurate with Ping's and these haven't disappointed in that department. I'm still in the honeymoon period with these as I've only had them for about 2 months. However, I'm hopeful that that these will be my keepers for years to come. -Schlebrock-

It depends if the Ping Van is outfitted with a digital loft machine. If they have one, they won't charge you to measure your current driver. They'll only charge you if you have a club built for you and want to ensure it's actual loft. The key is to ask the Ping rep all of the questions that you're asking here in the Sand Trap forum. Based on personal experiences, most of the Ping reps are very helpful and will guide you in the right direction. Good luck with your fitting. -Schlebrock-

Great point tweaky. In fact, Ping is notorious for having actual lofts in their drivers (especially the G10 & G15 heads) that's higher than the stated loft. For instance, I had Ping build me a custom G15 from their WRX department that was digitally lofted at 10.5 degrees. Instead of giving me a 10.5 degree head, they had to give me a 9.0 degree head because all of their 10.5 degree heads have true lofts that are higher than 10.5 degrees. Ping has stated that they do this because golfers need more loft and that consumers generally purchase a loft thst's too low for their swing. While I don't disagree with that statement I'm not sure that an OEM should "trick" people into thinking they're getting something that thye're not. That said, just ask to get a driver that's "digitally lofted" to ensure you get the correct loft for your swing. It's a small upcharge (approx. $10) but it's worth every penny. Just ask the Ping rep and he'll steer you in the right direction. Hope that helps, -Schlebrock-

Obtaining maximum distance is all about getting the correct launch angle and spin rates based on your ball speed. Contrary to popular belief, swing speed is not the most important variable. Someone with a 100mph swing speed who doesn't hit the center of the clubface may have slower ball speeds than someone that has a 90mph swing speed and always hits the center of the clubface. That said, typically people need higher lofts with slower swing speeds. So, 12 - 13 degrees of loft on your driver may give you a better launch angle and increase your distance. However, without knowing your current metrics (ball speed, launch angle, spin rates) it's impossible to know how much distance you will gain. The guys at the Ping truck will be able to give you more specific information when you get on a launch monitor. Hope that helps. -Schlebrock-

I agree with you Clambake. In fact, I just ordered a R11 TP so I could make some minor adjustments for some of the reasons you just mentioned. I previously played a Ping G15 with a Matrix Ozik HD6 and it was the best driver I've ever hit. However, I'm now swinging the club just a little bit slower so the G15 doesn't quite fit me now. That's why I want the convenience of having a driver like the R11. It allows me to make some minor adjustments without having to re-order another complete driver setup. However, I can't say that the R11 is better than the G15. It's just offers me more variables to change so I can fit it to my new swing. -Schlebrock-

He's right....those numbers are ideal. I wouldn't change a thing unless you're not hitting fairways. Otherwise, I would recommend that setup too. Hope that helps. -Schlebrock-

Hi there, Optimized launch conditions for a 150 mph ball speed is a 14 degree launch angle and between 2400 - 2500 rpm's of backspin. That will give you maximum distance. The 1280 - 1310 rpms that you referenced isn't achievable with a driver. So, go back and get your accurate backspin numbers and repost your results. I'm sure you'll get some good advice here once you do. Hope that helps. -Schlebrock-

It's already been said many times in this post but once you're fit with the correct driver, you don't really need all these adjustments. That said, most golfers don't currently have a driver setup that optimize's their performance. Most will just walk into their local golf shop and say "I'll take this driver in a stiff shaft" and walk out the door. Then they get out on the course and wonder why the $300 they just spent doesn't help their game. It's simple, the driver doesn't fit their swing. Obviously, this isn't the way to lower scores or play better golf. In order to maximize your driving, you need the correct launch angle, spin rates and shaft profile. Clubs like the R11 allow golfers to "tinker" with their driver in order to get the most out of their swing. That's the area where I think this driver is going to help most golfers. However, this driver is no better than any other properly fitted driver that's currently on the market. That's my $0.02. -Schlebrock-

It's hard without seeing your swing but the issue could very well be the shaft. Remember, the shaft is the engine of the club and if it doesn't fit your swing, your performance will suffer. I recently got on a launch monitor because I too thought my 3-wood was ballooning, especially with shots directly into the wind. I was right. The shaft I was using was creating too much spin. So, I switched my shaft and reduced my spin by approximatley 600 rpm's. I gained a full 8-12 yards and the problem was solved....no more ballooning. That may be your solution too. Hope that helps and good luck. -Schlebrock-

I've played the eye2's, Zing2's, ISI's, i5's, S58's, i10's, G10's, i15's and now the Ansers. All were good clubs but the i15's and Ansers are my favorites. I think both sets offer a great blend of accuracy, playability and forgiveness. If you want to save some money, try the i15's. If money isn't an object and you want that forged feel, try the Ansers. There really is no wrong answer when dealing with Ping irons. It just depends on what set fits you best. Hope that helps. -Schlebrock-

Do yourself a favor and contact Discount Dan's in Oregon. You won't be disappointed by their prices or their service. You can find their website online but you need to either call them or email them for their prices. It's the only place I buy my equipment.....and I buy a lot! Hope that helps. -Schlebrock-

OEM shafts are made for the masses and sometimes don't work well for all swings. So, the benefits of an aftermarket shaft is it's ability to get you dialed-in so that you're acheiving optimal performance. Also, after market shafts generally have tighter manufacturing tolerances and are of higher quality than OEM shafts. That said, there are several OEM shafts that are high quality and will work just fine. The trick is finding a shaft that's right for your swing, whether that's OEM or after market. Hope that helps. -Schlebrock-

Originally Posted by VardonFlyer that was what i originaly tried to do but could not find that old rombax. Do you know what new rombax is similair to the 6wo6? Not sure where you were looking but here are several links with new 6W06 shafts: http://www.victorycustomgolf.com/products/186/shafts/fujikura-rombax-6w06.aspx http://golfshaftdeals.com/product/fujikura-rombax-6w06-131.cfm http://myclubmaker-com.securec5.hostek.net/product/fujikura-rombax-6w06-131.cfm You can also call Fujikura directly and ask them what shaft would be similar. Good luck. -Schlebrock-

Launch monitor results from the Project X graphite shafts are about as good as it gets when it comes to low flight and low spin. I'd recommend the 6.5 version. However, some people don't like the feel so you may want to take that into consideration. That said, why don't you just get a 6W06? Hope that helps. -Schlebrock-

Forgot to say in my original post that using an 8.5 degree driver with a swing speed of 100mph is probably not the way to go. Tour players that play 8.5 degree lofts are gettting in the 170's-180's with their ball speed. So, you should be looking at a 10.0 or even a 10.5 when you get your angle of attack under control. Good luck. -Schlebrock-

Hi nickel_aTm, Your main issue is your ball speed relative to your swing speed. This is commonly known as your smash factor. You generally want to get it between 1.48-1.50. For swing speeds approaching 100 mph, you should optimally have ball speeds of between 148-150 mph. The fact that you only have a 133 mph ball speed with a 100 mph swing speed means your not transferring enough energy to the ball to get your maximum results. That said, the good news is that it's usually easier to get your ball speed up vs. your swing speed. The bad news is that an equipment change isn't going to get you there. You're going to need to get lessons. Optimal launch conditions for a 100 mph swing speed should be: 150 mph ball speed 14.0 degree launch angle 2444 rpm spin rate This will translate into a 251.3 yd carry and a 288.4 yd total driving distance with no wind at sea level. Hope this helps, -Schlebrock-