tdinneen

MP-32's!!!

Nicklaus North up in Whistler is a must, the course itself is straight forward but the surroundings and club house are awesome. It is Whistler though, so it's 2 hours min at the moment given the road works for the Olympics. +1 for Northlands, great course, hilly though but the beer dolly and her cart usually hang around the turn which helps. 30-40 mins from downtown. Fraserview is nice, worth playing. 30 mins from downtown. I quite like Langara as well, short course but the greens are tricky. 20-30 mins from downtown. The University Golf Course isn't bad but it can get boggy if it's wet. 20 mins from downtown. Greenacres is a bit further out (past the airport), nice course. 40-60 mins from downtown dending on traffic. I haven't played anywhere else so can't comment.

Tour-Tempo-Secret-Finally-Revealed

Thanks for the insight boodaboy16. I have the 585.H 21 in steel and absolutely love it. My 3W is also steel and love that. I generally just prefer the extra weight of steel, lightweight graphite shafts just put me off... maybe it's a tempo thing?? I bought the 906 with graphite 'cos from reading the specs (and also no steel in the shop the UST V2 has a similar torque and kick-point to the Dynamic Gold's. Thought I'd give it a shot and see how it would go. Distance is great, slightly longer than I was looking for though, it's encroaching on my 3W a bit, so steel is probably the way to go anyway to bring it back 10-15 yards or so. Thing is my consistency with the graphite, sometimes it draws when I want a fade and vice versa. I just can't seem to get the timing right unless I really hold back on the throttle, in which case it only goes as long as my 585.H hybrid.

Just bought a Titleist 906F2 5W. Wanted to get it with a steel shaft but they only had graphite in stock, had a few shots with it and liked it enough to buy it. Got the UST V2 shaft. After playing a few rounds with it I'd like to switch it to a steel shaft. Anyone had this done before? not necessarily the 906F2 but has anyone had a wood reshafted from graphite to steel? I presume it's a no brainer as the 906F2 is available in steel. I also assume moving from a 86 gram shaft to a 130 gram shaft (assuming a Dynamic Gold S300) will require shortening the club a bit to maintain swingweight. I'm guestimating a 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. Any advice, thoughts?

On the backswing, you start with hands, arms and shoulders all moving together, by virtue of the fact that the human body is articulated the hips will automatically turn to follow that shoulder turn. You don't actively rotate your hips on the backswing, it all happens. Note you must keep your right leg braced, it almost doesn't move on the backswing, it's the left leg that kicks in a bit to accomodate the maneuver. At the top of your backswing, your right left is bent the same amount as address and the knee is still inside your right foot... ie. it hasn't straightened or collapsed to the outside of your right foot. This is how you build up tension / power in the backswing. Those big back muscles are the engine of the swing, not your arms. The downswing is different, you want to unwind the other way around, so hips release first and they keep on turning... the hips lead the shoulders through impact. This is how you get a nice inside out swing, leading with the arms is one sure way of coming from the outside and slicing!!! You also mention that you keep your weight on your front foot. At address if anything you should have more weight on your back foot, 50/50 is ok though. You should accompany the backswing with a weight shift to the back foot, the release of the hips accompanies a weight shift back to the front foot. Once you release your hips, keep them turning all the way through the swing, your shoulders will eventually catch up just after impact.

Sorry to steal this thread slightly but can't find this info anywhere. The 906F2 18 degree is 42.5" in length. Anyone know the length of the 18 degree in steel? it's not on the titleist site I assume it's 42"?

39-40 on medium sized greens, I use a Scotty Newport 2. I normally hit 5-6 three putts a round. In short my putting sucks my best ever is 34, my worst 42. I should really be better but I don't practise it that much, maybe 15-20 mins every two weeks. Oh, and for some reason I always seem to three putt when I manage to get a GIR

OK, not exactly the cheap option but worth adding the Mizuno's MP-57's to your list. Had a look at them the other day in the local golf store and they look quite nice. They are basically cavity backed forged blades. I didn't hit them but from what the guys were saying they are quite forgiving but look like a muscle back at address which is what you are looking for.

Nothing wrong with a push like that, Ben Hogan would be proud you need to rotate those wrists more at impact to square the clubface up. A push of 20 degrees with a square clubface will get you a nice push draw... which looks cool and will get you more distance over trying to hit it straight (or at least more straight as no one can consistently hit the ball straight, most tour pro's have a slight push draw to there swing). Also noticed that your plane on the backswing is quite flat. Have a look at you video, pause it when you left arm is parallel to the ground on the backswing. Your shaft should point to the "ball to target" line or just inside that line (towards your feet). Your shaft is pointing a meter or so on the other side. Getting that plane more upright with your current swing should take that push out of the equation but again nothing wrong with a push albeit it should be accompanied with a nice draw / square clubface.

Here's an article that explains everything... http://golf.about.com/cs/componentsc...wingweight.htm

Yep, you'll need to add weight to the head to compensate. If you look at the Scotty Cameron's, take Newport 2 for example as to how much weight is needed. The 33" is 350g, the 34" 340g and the 35" 330g. So Scotty would add roughly 15 grams to a 35" Newport 2 shortened to 33.5". So guestimate the headweight of your putter and add rougly the same percentage weight. Alternatively find someone with a swingweight machine

I've recently started pendulum swinging before every shot. So setup and make a practise swing and go straight back into another swing (so it's a continuous swing down the target line, swing back to a 3/4 turn with wrist cock and swing again). It's pretty quick to do, just as quick as making two full practise swing but it helps to get that feeling of wrist cock, weight shift, late release, outside-in swing plane etc.. etc.. quickly. Maybe on the first swing working on wrist cock on the backswing, wait till you get that feeling, then move onto swingplane on the downswing, wait till that's a nice inside-out, then start gooving a late release and roll over. It might take 10 quick swings to start out but after a few hits you only need 4-5. Takes less than 10 seconds to do. Then go ahead and hit that shot. You should do this on the practise range and take it to the course. I find it really helps get the feeling. It also helps taking the range game to the course. At the range it takes a few shots to get into it but then you hit a groove. On the course you hit a ball, walk for a few minutes then hit another ball, and after you hit your ball you realised something was not quite right but then it's too late I also to this for putting. Instead of taking two practise putts. I pendulum swing a few times to get the feel of how much backswing is required to make the putt + 17".

Nice reply Iacas, you beat me to it. As Iacas has pointed out the iPod is a great example, there are many music devices out there and most have the same hardware underneath, from the drives to the flash memory, to the controller chips and DAC's etc.. what makes the iPod different is the interface. It's easy to use and straight forward. Sure there are devices out there that have more features, more space, their equivalent shuffle has an LCD screen etc.. etc.. but the combo of click wheel and software on the iPod wins. Same for the iPhone, which I think is what WhiplashSmile's argument is missing. Sure the iPhone costs $500-$600 bucks and you can get similarly spec'd hardware for cheaper. But they don't run OS X which is what the iPhone is based on. Just as Hogan 'found it in the dirt' so too should you 'find it in the software' that after all is what the hype is all about!!!

If you hold up your wedge bringing the clubhead to eye level. Make sure the shaft is at 90 degree's to the ground (so it's straight up). Notice that the trailing edge of the sole is lower than the leading edge. That height difference is the bounce angle. More bounce helps the club dig less, less bounce allows the club to dig more. Generally you'd be better off with more bounce if you are a digger, ie. take a big divot and less bounce if you take little or no divot.. a sweeper. Where bounce really comes into play is in sand traps, where one would put a different sand wedge in the bag based on conditions. More bounce for soft sand... you don't want the sand wedge to dig, less bounce for harder / heavier sand. As for the Ping's having more bounce that the MP-60's. Think of hitting a ball fat with a club with lots of bounce, if you sweep it (as most beginners do) the trailing edge is more likely to hit the ground first rather than the leading edge, so the club is more likely to 'bounce' up off the gound rather than dig into it. So you'd normally see more bounce on game-improvement clubs.