bwinger79

Alright... lets get real. 180's is the wind speed in Scotland, 140's was your ball speed, and 100's was your clubhead speed.

Chances are the shaft is not the issue. Can you tell my why someone with a 26 cap would consider buying a "tour" driver? Typically, "tour" drivers are setup with open faces and a fade bias. This could be what is causing the issue, although I am not sure of the exact setup configuration of that club. If the ball is starting right and curving right, chances are you aren't squaring the club face. Post a video of your swing if possible.

Alright.... lets start with Tip #1. Using the same swing that Hogan used doesn't work unless you are built and move exactly like Hogan. Its like getting the same driver Bubba Watson uses and expecting it to carry 340 in the air. This is a game you need to figure out by yourself, or with the help of a highly skilled instructor. As far as you breaking clubs and feeling the club twisting at impact... you should be able to look the the club and see where you are hitting it, but I would guess you are firing off some hosel rockets. Post a video of your swing if possible if you want a better diagnosis. Tip #2. If you are hitting like this, do us all a favor and put in some major range time before spraying your local course. Swing changes take alot of time, even for the best players in the world. We have all been to the point in our "golf careers" where we felt like quiting, but that is the beauty of this game, if you endure, you will see results. The changes you see may not always be for the better, but its all about the journey, not the destination.

Golfsmith.com

Project X's can be made as stiff as you need them, it just cost a little more to have them made. I think the stiffest set I have seen were 6.9, but they can be made stiffer. Not sure about the black golds though.

My standard 5 iron length is 205yds....maybe a little more with roll. But really, just look at any manufacturer site under "Specs". I think you will find that most are going to be between 37.75 and 38 inches.

WOW..... I am very surprised to see a response like that from someone at Mizuno. There are so many false facts in that reply that I dont even know where to begin. The company has players on tour that use PXF. Altering the CG in a head in no way makes it "flighted". You will end up spending alot of money to get a Mizuno set with PFX because they need to be custom built. By custom built I dont mean buy the irons and just replace the shafts with PXF. You need to go to a facility where they get PXF blanks. This way they can build your irons to the exact flex and swingweight you like. This can cost alot though..... more than most are willing to pay.

180/220 in the fairway is great if you are playing 5700yd courses. I dont care how good your short game is, if you are playing a 7400yd course you arent going to score well without some length off the tee. Depending on the course you are playing, sometimes it is better to be long and off the fairway than short and in the fairway. But overall, I would have to agree with the point you were trying to make.

If you are a beginner with an 80mph swing speed, dont waste your money on the lob wedge yet. The extra 4 degrees of loft isnt going to help you hit the ball that much higher. The problem is technique, not the loft.

My 5 wood is the R7 Steel and I love it. Favorite club in my bag to tee off with. I have never had any issues with any of my TM products. Actually, the LT badge on the back of my 8 iron came off, but they replaced it at no cost to me. I dont know what you are doing to cave in a head on a wood, but chances are you just got a bad apple, which happens with all manufacturers. I put a pretty good hit on the ball and have never had a head crack, dent, or anything else. Would love to see some pics though. Call TM and let them know what happened. I would have to bet they would replace it without giving you any hassle.

The only way you are going to find the wedge you like is to go and hit whats out there. As far as the feel of the club, you can take your current wedge to a PCS certified fitter, and they can tell you the swing weight of the club. They should also be able to build your new wedge to the same swing weight to give you a similar feel. There are tons of great wedges on the market. TaylorMade RAC TP, Vokey SM, Callaway X-tour, Cleveland DSG's, Mizuno MP series and so on. I know you can pick up Cleveland CG10's on rockbottomgolf.com for like $70 right now. As far as rusting your wedges, yeah you can do it, but why? I think you will be much better off if you just practice and learn to creat spin the conventional way, with your swing. Cleveland makes a 588 RTG that comes rusted and is meant to rust further, but I am not sure they offer it in the loft you are looking for.

Are you guessing at your swing speed or have you actually had it measured. Mine is slightly higher than yours, and when I demoed the FT-5 with the E360, the shaft felt like a limp noodle to me. If that is your actual swing speed, then the flex should be alright, although swing speed alone is not going to tell you which shaft is right for you and your game.

Check out this site. It should give you all the info you need on the Puring process. I know you can get this done at various club makers, or if you order a new shaft from say Golfsmith, you can get it pre-pured. http://sstpure.com/

I am with you iacas. Zero Friction tees are the way to go. They last forever. A 50 pack can last 2 years, and for $5 they are worth every penny. The only issue I have had with them is getting them into the ground on really cold days. I guess thats when I scrounge for tees others left behind on the tee box.

I have tried them and wasnt too impressed. Not much different than the old AD333. If you like the old ones you will certainly like these. If I were you, I would check out the Bridgestone E-series ball. Much better ball for about the same price.