pcitygolfer

In my opinion - NO, it's not worth it. I have a Mizuno MP-001 460 driver the a "pured" shaft. I think it's gone too far. I'll give anybody shooting a 5 or under the benefit of the doubt, but I would be willing to bet that you could conduct a test of identical pured and non-pured shaft, and virtually nobody could tell the difference.

I hear you, but some of the players you noted have already removed blades for their low irons (3-6). Just like "wooden woods", blade use will continue to decline. There will always be rare exceptions, but the kids are growing up with blades, and they won't be using them when they are pros. Ten years from now, a complete set of blades will no longer exist. Look at the pros that are now using hybrids. Who would have guessed that 10 years ago. Is there any doubt in your mind, that the person submitting this post should be playing blades of cavity backs?

I have played 30-40 sets of irons in my life. I will make this one simple - try and find a set of MacGregor M565 irons on ebay for about $150. Check out the reviews on these irons on golfreview.com. These are ideal for your handicap. Nobody should be playing blades anymore. They are simply inferior to the new cavity back "players" clubs on the market. I guarantee you that you will shoot consistently shoot lower scores with cavity backs. I'm not talking about player improvement clubs. Even the pros have abandoned blades with the exception of 7 irons and above.

I think this one is fairly easy. There has been an unbelievable improvement in technology in all clubs. That includes "players" clubs for low handicappers. I can't think of one good reason for anyone (including pros) using blades any more. In fact, virtually nobody on tour plays blades anymore. This reminds me of a similar issue in tennis back in the 1970s. Borg, Connors and McEnroe all played traditional equipment - stating that graphite oversized frames were for novices. That stopped when they started getting their you know what kicked. Look at golf now. I remember people use to say I prefer Persimmon woods because they have better "feel". I am a traditionalist by nature, but the new clubs today are way, way, way better. This applies at all levels. If you gave the top pros some of the old equipment, they would still shoot well, but they shoot higher scores. I shot my lowest round ever with KZG forged blades. That was ten years ago. Forget blades and get forged cavity backs with low offsets. Your scores will be lower and your wrists, elbows and hands will thank you when you get older.

I am obviously off on a tangent. MacGregor was not even one of the choices to vote on. I used to sell clubs and have tons of them sitting around from every manufacturer. My understanding is that MacGregor used to make great clubs, then they started turning out crap. This ended a few years ago; however, their popularity does not seem to have rebounded. I play MacGregor M565 irons. They are the best irons I have ever hit, and the components are second to none. Forged cavity backs, high quality stock shafts (Rifle), along with reduced offsets. For the money, MacGregor is currently offering some of the best clubs out there.

I play MacGregor M565 irons. I used to sell clubs and have at least 20+ sets sitting around from just about every manufacturer - Mizuno, Nickent, KZG, Wilson, Top-flite, Maxfli, Taylor Made, you name it. I hit these irons better than any other I have played. When I look at the technology that goes into these irons, I can't understand why I don't see more MacGregor equipment on the course. These irons are as advanced as any out there. Forged cavity backs, different metals and shaft flexes within the set - stock Rifle shafts and optional YS technology graphite shafts. The bottom line is that most manufacturers make very good clubs that virtually anyone can play. However, I really don't think it is possible for any brand name to offer more value than what you get. I think MacGregor needs a better Marketing department. Take a look at the reviews these irons got on golfreview.com. They are the highest rated club ever evaluated - next to the Maxfli A-10 Tour limited (which I also own).

I honestly don't have a bias towards one manufacturer over another. I literally have an Odyssey putter, Mizuno Driver, Cleveland wedges, Nickent hybrids and MacGregor Irons. My rule is I play the clubs that get me the lowest score. I own tons of equipment (especially irons) and find myself switching back and forth to see what happens. Here is what happens - every time I end up hitting MacGregor M565s with Rifle Shafts. These are the best of both worlds. They are forged cavity backs with some player improvement features. I'm not sure why I don't see more MacGregor equipment out on the course. Over the past few years, they really are offering technology and equipment second to none. These irons are dead accurate and they are long. I know they are long because they have strong lofts, but it is more than that. When I hit them right, they are a full club longer than any other iron I hit with. I also like the fact the high irons (7-PW) have a lower trajectory, while the low irons fly higher. It's is a combination of different metals and shaft flex points. Last week, I taped up every box of irons and I stated publicly that these irons are staying in my bag. Everyone laughed. In addition, I also own a set of these in stiff graphite from YS technologies. They are awesome and I started using them due to pain in my hands and elbow. I wouldn't say they feel like blades (played KZGs), but I think that is a good thing. I am almost 48 and my hands and elbow can't take the beating off center blades give. They are better than blades for virtually everyone - including the pros. Almost nobody on tour plays blades anymore. That's because other players are shooting lower with some type of forged cavity backs.

Great question These days you really can't compare one person's 5 iron to anothers. Nickent 3dx five iron has about the same loft as a 3 iron. I have researched this, and most PWs are now 45 - used to be 48 and even higher in the 1960s. The best thing to do is compare lofts. Here is mine. 58 lob wedge 85 54 sand wedge 100 50 gap wedge 110 45 PW 125 9I - 135 8I - 145 7I - 155 6I - 165 5I - 175 4I - 185 3I - 195 (drop this one for play) 5 hybrid 195-200 3 hybrid 210 -215 Driver 250

I use a DFX 2-ball putter and I do not use a forward press. On putts under 6 feet, I let the putter swing itself. The feel and "hotness" off the face has a lot to do with how it plays. The DFX has a softer, black face and requires a harder stroke. They are truly great putters.

It is the most addicting, frustrating, sport I have ever played. I used to be a fairly good athlete and was always known for good sportsmanship. I don't know what it is about golf, but there are times I want to take my Sun Mountain cart and push it into the lake at the course. I shoot a 39 on the front and a 46 (should have been 55) on the back. Just when you think you mastered it, the snap hook is back. After hitting 4-5 bad shots, one of your partner comments "you are coming out of your shoes". You slow down and start hitting great shots. 5 minutes later you are trying to crush the ball. I play almost every day. I am an addict.

None of the above hybrids. I have removed all of my fairway woods and now use Nickent 3dx utility 3 & 5 clubs. The 3 is has a 15 degree loft the 5 has 19 degrees. These clubs are a cross between a fairway wood and a hybrid. If you looked at them, you would say they look much more like a hybrid. Their lofts are much stronger. The 3 has the same loft as a standard 3 fairway wood, bu the shaft is shorter (like a hybrid). The result is a club you can hit out of anywhere and far more accurate than a fairway wood. I am only losing 10 yards to my regular 3 wood. For the increased accuracy, I will live with a 215 yard shot. Keep an eye out for these. I am seeing a ton of them. They have the lime green (very bright) headcovers. These are the best "hybrids" I have ever used.

I must give you credit for noticing one thing that most people don't understand - the gap of 11 degrees between the PW and SW. I faced the exact same dillema, but I now know I made the correct decision. Do yourself a favor and drop the 3I (possibly 5w instead) and get a 50 or 51 degree gap wedge. The rationale is very simple. You take far more shots closer to the hole. I play a 50GW 54SW 58LW. This keeps 4 degrees between all of my clubs. It's nice to see someone admit they have trouble hitting 70 or 90 percent of a club - everyone does. It is far better to take the same swing and know your ball will land 10 yards or so further or closer to the pin. My gap wedge is my 110 yard club - pitching wedge 120 - sand wedge 100 and LW 80 yards. I am considering dropping the 58 and going back to a 60. I notice they don't stick as well. When you stop and think about how often you need to choose between a 220 and 205 yard shot. Choosing between the 5w and 3I is tough. Here is a thought - check out the Nickent 3dx Utility 3. It is a cross between a hybrid and a fairway wood. They are selling for $49 and they spin the ball and stick. I can now hit it 200-215 depending on what I need. The Nickent Utility 3 has a 15 degree loft. I no longer carry fairway woods.

Odyssey 2-ball DFX putter (black insert). I have two of these, both cut down to 33 inches. I really prefer the softer black insert. This putter has transformed me from an average to very good putter. My biggest weakness is that I simply am very poor at reading greens - even the course I have a membership to. If I get inside of others on the green and get to watch, I am very good. Even with a putter as good as this, I have bad putting rounds. I really like this putter for 5-10 foot putts. This club basically swings itself. Two other players in our group play the identical putter. One actually has his cut down to 33 inches. Talking about getting a good read when we pair up.

My heart would like to say Jack, but I think it is Tiger. For some time, I thought Tiger came accross as arrogant and I honestly did not care for him. It's difficult to compare who is better during different eras. Perhaps the strongest argument for Tiger, is that the competition is so much stronger today and the number of professional golfers is also higher. When you stop and think about how often Tiger finishes at the top week in and week out (even after his numerous breaks), what he is doing is absolutely incredible. Both he and his caddie take the sport seriously and train like nobody else before. How many times are we going to watch "professionals" simply wilt under the pressure of his presence. He wins a lot of them, but a couple wins this year were basically handed over to him by others that could not handle the pressure. Both Jack and Tiger were/are the greatest of their time. If the requirement is to pick one - I must now say Tiger.

I hit the a 58 and a 60 and love both. However, you need a 50 far more than you need a lob wedge. Ten degrees between your pitching wedge and sand wedge is way too much. It's a gap wedge (50 in this case) that splits the two you have in half. filling in the gaps is one of the best things you can do for your short game. It's nice to have a 60, but it is a must to keep the gaps between irons consistent.

They all vary depending on the degrees on the club. It seems that most 3s are 21 degees. I find these overlap with my 3 iron. Here is a compromise you might like - Nickent 3DX Utility - a cross between a hybrid and a fairway wood. If you get them, don't get a 3 & 4 - get a 3 & 5. The Three is 15 degrees (much stronger - same as a 3 wood), and the 5 wood is 19 degrees. They may be a little shorter than a fairway wood, but this is more than offset by greater accuracy. They have a shorter shaft. I hit the 3 215 when I hit it well. They also check up on the green.

I play a 10.5 Cleveland Launcher 460. I tend to hit the ball low, and this club goes higher than other 10.5s I have hit. So much of the ball flight has to do with the shaft flex. I actually often hit a Mizuno MPO-001 460 with 11.5 (senior) head with a Harmon Tour Design shaft. It hits lower than my Cleveland.

I am currently using a Cleveland 460 Launcher with the stock stiff shaft and 10.5 degree loft. This is the solid titanium model and I have several of them - I swith occasionally to a 9.5 degree model with a pro launch graffaloy shaft. I prefer this driver over any of the new models I tested. The only other driver I play with is the MP-001 460 from Mizuno. These are two of the best drivers ever made. The Mizuno is a beautiful club. The Cleveland is straight, but does tend to launch the ball higher than others I have hit. I tend to hit boring, low balls anyway, which is good in Iowa due to the wind.

I have some 588s also. I like them too. Wedges and putters are about confidence. You should play what you like best

I hit a 54 degree Cleveland wedge. If you are in the rough (especially deep rough), a sand wedge is not a bad choice, as they have more bounce. Most gap and lob wedges usually have less bounce and would get hung up in the rough - usually short. Many companys (i.e. Cleveland) offer all wedges in 3 bounces, so you can match the wedge that best matches the course and conditions.

I am hitting 54 degree and 58 degree Cleveland RTG 900 wedges. The main reason is to keep consistent gaps between my irons. I play Mac 565s and the gap wedge is 50 degrees. I am thinking about replacing the 58 with a 60. There are times when I want a little more loft to land the ball a bit softer, or to clear trees. I have hit a 60 for years, but decided to stick with 58 for a bit. Both wedges are mid bounce, as I prefer to have the option to hit both reliably out of the bunker. I do think the 58 is a great lob wedge for someone trying it out for the first time. I can't stress enough the importance of knowing the lofts of your irons and getting wedges that maintain a consistent gap. I see very good golfers with terrible short games. Inevitably, they are hitting 45 degree pitching wedges - with their next club being a 56 degree sand wedge - a difference of 11 degrees (3 times to much).

I actually carry 54 degree and 58 degree Cleveland RTG wedges. My reason is a little bit different than yours. I think most people don't realize how big a gap exists between most sets pitching wedge and sand wedge. For the most part pitching wedges are around 45 degrees - with most sand wedges coming in at 56 degrees - A DIFFERENCE OF 11 DEGREES. I play MacGregor M565s and my lofts are as follows: Mac PW - 45 degrees Mac GW - 50 degrees Cleveland RTG - 54 degrees Cleveland RTG - 58 degrees This allows me to take a full, normal swing from 75 yards and longer. This is a big plus. Even if you feel comfortable hitting a PW from 120 and in, with practice, I guarantee you will love the ability to hit full shots as opposed to hitting 2/3rds of a PW. I like the idea of most players starting out with a 58 degree lob wedge. Although I prefer 60, the 58 is easier to hit. When it comes to close shots around the green. I either use the 54 or 58 depending on the distance to the cup and whether it is downhill. I occasional hit the Mac 50 gap, but it doesn't feel as good around the greens. Most people will tell you (and I agree), that bump and runs with a 7-8 iron are great if you are close to the green. I would do this more often; however, after my gap wedge (Rifle steel) the rest of my set is graphite. It's probably me, but I can't stand to chip with graphite. However, my elbow feels a lot better.

I believe these shafts are excellent. I have two sets in my m565 irons. I agree with the previous feedback about the Titleist drivers. Their drivers tend to be neutral - there is no draw bias. I prefer to play all neutral clubs, and I now have a similar issue. Sometimes it is a draw - sometimes a fade. I used to hit a consistent draw (or snaphook). Like you, I would prefer the ball consistently go one way or the other. There are so many things that can be adjusted to make this happen I don't know where to begin. I decided to shape the ball by primarily slightly altering my stance. This works pretty well. With a slightly open stance, I get a fade most of the time. With a closed stance a draw. Please note that about 25% of the time I get something else.

There are quite a few good golf balls out there. If I had to choose one, I would (and do use) the Precept U-tri Tour. It is long, soft, and stops. Believe it or not, they sell these at Wal-mart. The last time I checked on golfreview.com, these were one of the highest rated balls ever.

These are tough shots, but they do need to be played differently. Keep face in standard position (not open), weight on the front foot. Raise the club, and strike down on the ball (try to knock it deeper into the trap) - and hit it hard.