johnnyb588

I use my PW in almost all cases, as I'm trying to improve my bump and run techniques, but I've recently been falling in love with my 60* vokey for over-the-bunker shots and some bunker shots.

I think blades are good for high and low handicappers. IMO, it's a myth that high handicappers shouldn't use blades. 5 weeks ago, I was hitting in the 105-110 range with some great CB's that I just couldn't figure out, so I got a couple of sets of blades, and my scores are now 85-90. 20 strokes just like that because I picked up some blades and they showed me what I was doing wrong with my swing. I think it's important to just use clubs that feel good, whether you're a low handicapper who likes CB's or a high handicapper who likes blades.

If you can consistently shoot in the mid 80's from the men's tees, then I would say that equipment might make a tiny bit of a difference. HOWEVER, my experience has shown that better equipment will not really get you more distance and more accuracy. What better equipment will get you is more spin and more workability. What this translates to in your game is that your shots will be much more shapable. This can be a good thing, but really, unless you're very good, this is probably going to be more of a hindrance than a help. My recommendation would be to try things out, and if you can find any clubs that give you a considerable advantage over your current clubs (which I doubt you will find), stick with what you have. There's no need to spend thousands on equipment in most cases. Most people just overpay.

Best advice I can give is to just try a bunch of stuff out. Cleveland makes a couple of great sets that might be good for you, the TA3's and the CG4's. They're both sort of a player's cavity-back. They're workable and set up very nicely at address, and they're solid. I also like PING a lot. i3's and Eye2's are some of the best they have ever made, imo. Great sets of irons. There are a ton of great options out there for you. Try things out. You don't need to spend $500 to get a great set of irons, especially if used clubs are all right by you. I just bought 2 sets of blades on eBay in great shape for a combined $250 when original retail would have been well over $1800.

I have two sets with Golf Pride and one with Lamkin. I really don't have a preference. All are very comfortable.

I would go with the i's. However, if I were looking for a Ping set of irons, I would look in the direction of the i3's over anything else they have available. Also, I think the Eye2's are better clubs. "Newer" technology doesn't always mean better. If you haven't tried some of Ping's other sets, I would check them out before making your purchase. If you have tried them out and you prefer the i10's and G10's, then I would recommend the i10's.

I buy Tour iX's and Pro V1x's for less than a dollar per ball. eBay. I've played dozens of balls, and the balls never really make that much of a difference on your carry distance, but bounce and spin can have big differences. If you want a lot of roll, there are a ton of options with some hard balls out there, and any of them will probably do. If you're looking for a softer ball, you're going to have to try them out for yourself, imo, because you're just not going to get the same results from all of them.

I bought some blades a couple of weeks back, went to the range and worked on my swing. I shot a 108 on a Monday, and on Saturday I shot an 85 on a much more difficult course. Confidence was a big factor. I changed my grip and was getting the clubhead through on every swing, which gave me the aforementioned confidence. I smartened up with my club selection, and my newfound consistency paid off, because I could hit about half the greens in regulation, which I could have never dreamed of before. I don't feel like I've had my big breakthrough. I really don't feel like I've reached anywhere near my potential, but I've scratched the surface. My striking is getting more consistent with every week, and my distance is improving greatly as I get stronger and more in tune with the golf swing. The problem is that my short game is still very choppy. I 3-putt 5-8 times per round, and I am a very inconsistent chipper and pitcher. If I don't get a GIR, it's pretty much a guaranteed 3-4 stroked from there on. I feel like I can be a scratch golfer, but now I get to see whether or not I'm willing to put in the work that requires.

5 weeks ago I was shooting a consistent 105. Now I've worked myself into the mid 80's. The best advice I can give you is "don't try to do too much." When I was scoring higher, I would always assume that I could hit the ball much further than was really likely. I would swing away without thinking "Where do I NOT want this ball to end up?" and all too often, I would end up in the middle of some trees, or in the rough, or with a tough bunker shot, etc. Club selection is critical before you get onto the green. If you're driving 270, then you should be able to hit your 3 iron somewhere around 210 or so, so if you're on a short par 4 (360 or so), maybe just hit a 3i instead of going with the big stick. If you're 160 out and you think you can make it with a 7, but you are pretty sure you'll end up short and a bunker awaits at the front of the green, club up to the 6 and be sure you fly the trouble. If you're stuck behind a tree, don't try to make a miracle shot and get yourself into more trouble. Find the easiest way to better your position with the least chance of getting into more danger. For your short game, I would HIGHLY recommend that you do not settle for flop shots around the green. You should really work on your bump and run techniques. If it's a short chip, try keeping your arms straight and stiff and really letting your torso do the work to move the ball. That will minimize mistakes greatly, becuase your restricted movement is going to allow you to have a better control of your distance. If it's a far enough shot that you have to cock your wrists, be absolutely sure that you do not go weak and decelerate before you strike the ball. So many golfers with poor short games take nice solid practice swings, but decelerate when they're actually going at the ball and they'll hit it fat or skull it or leave the club face open, etc. Do not decelerate. The best place to remove strokes is in your short game. Improve your pitching and chipping, and work on putts within 10 feet until you can't hold a putter any more. Do those things, and you'll break 100 with a few weeks of hard work.

Exactly what I would say. Your clubhead is open a little too much, and you're going way too far past parallel as well. These problems are kind of intertwined with each other, and I think both might be helped a little if you just cocked your wrists a little less.

I currently use the baseball grip (switched from interlocking), and it's working very well for me. Once I get the time, I'll probably make a switch to overlapping, as I think that might be a more solid grip for me to have, and with the changes I need to make with my swing, I might as well start by changing my grip.

I have been trying a few things with my driver swing lately, and I reach similarly to you. I haven't done a video-analysis of my own swing (but I intend to as soon as possible), but from what I can tell, our ball position and distance from the ball is identical, but the differences lie in the fact that I bend my right arm, cock my wrists a tad more, and my stance is narrower. I can't say anything about my hand position at impact or hips because I would need video to be sure. Why I'm saying this is that I played a round today and hit 2 drives at about 295 and 300 and the rest were all between 240 and 260 (my average drive is about 230 usually, I'm not a long hitter), and I hit every fairway but one, hitting it straight every time. I know there are things wrong with my swing, but what I have found is working for me right now, so if what you have is working for you, I'd stick with that unless you have the time and money and drive to work with a swing coach. We forumites can only offer so much advice without being able to be with you and extensively analyze every little thing.

Well, I'm not a swing expert, by any means, but I'll give you my two cents and see what you think of it. Different people have different preferences about the way they hold the club and what they want to do with their arms, so I won't say anything about that. What I will say is that the swing looks pretty good until you come back down. I think your hip rotation might be part of your problem, because at the point of impact with the ball, your hips were almost completely closed. I think that's the root of the problem in your swing, as I think that led to you not getting your hands through completely, as well. You coil fairly well, but I just don't think you're releasing all of the enery into the strike.

2 3/4". I don't care about the brand or anything. I tee up pretty low, so I can use as little as a 2 1/4", but I don't prefer it.

I've hit pretty much everthing Titleist, Cleveland, and Mizuno. A couple of player's irons made by Wilson and Ben Hogan intrigue me, but I just haven't got to them yet. Of what I have played so far, the Cleveland CG1's might have been my favorite. I have a set of Cleveland TA1's, and they're amazing. Also, I have a set of Mizuno T-Zoid True's, which are my favorite Mizunos I have ever hit. I don't buy into the idea that "newer" technology is better. Some of the older irons from the 80's and 90's are incredible.

I play Callaway Tour xi's and Titleist ProV1x's. You can get either of those balls in awesome shape (most have no marks at all, and all are still very playable) off eBay for less than a dollar a ball. I wouldn't recommend paying $4 a ball ever. There are plenty of balls that are far less expensive that are still awesome, and would serve anyone's purposes in playing.

Driver: Big Ben CS-5 - $150 Woods (assortment): $100 Irons: Mizuno T-zoid True - $118 Wedges: Titleist Vokey 56 and 60 - $110 Putter- $20 Total- $498 I don't have the big bucks to spend on golf equipment right now, but I actually don't think I need to. I test a lot of clubs to get a good feel for everything that is out on the market, and what I've found is that there is a lot of "old" technology that can still serve a great purpose today. My irons are older than a lot of junior golfers around today, but they are the best MB blades I have ever hit, and I've hit nearly every Mizuno, Titleist, and Cleveland model available. The only thing I spent some money on which I now greatly regret is my wedges. I like my vokeys, but looking back, I'm not sure I would have bought them again. The driver is the only club I'm willing to dish out a little bit on, because I always buy drivers new.

I use a Ben Hogan Big Ben CS-5. It has served me well, but it's about to be decommissioned. It's really starting to show its age, and I feel like it's losing a little bit of its pop for some reason or another. Great driver though.

Depends on a lot of things, but in most situations I would take my hybrid. I'm smacking my irons around pretty well right now, so I might go with a 3 or 4 iron as well, just depending on the shape of the shot, the lie, and the conditions.

I'm not sure if it will fit your bill, but I was searching around on eBay the other day for some Cleveland TA3's, and you can find some great deals on those clubs. I'm not positive it will have the look you're going for or the CB feel you want, but you should try them out and see if it fits the bill. They're great clubs for sure, but it's always best to try things on your own because there isn't a single set of irons out there that is just right for every golfer.

Cleveland here. Their irons are severely under-rated amidst all the Titleist and Mizuno love. Their hybrids and drivers are fantastic. They make arguably the best wedges around. And their putters are also severely under-rated. Cleveland makes some fine products, and I really wouldn't mind filling my bag with their logo.

I have 3 sets of clubs that I use with some regularity, but I am now starting to lean toward one more than the others. I have 2 sets of Cleveland irons. I have the TA1's and the TA6's. The TA6's were the first set of irons I bought when I got into the game, and really worked well for me for a while. I also had a set of i3's, Eye 2's, and G2's that I used, but didn't really fall in love with any of those. My third set of irons that I use with regularity are Mizuno T-Zoid True's. Of the TA1's, TA6's, and True's, I'm beginning to lean toward the True's. I get a little more distance with the TA1's, and I like the feel of the TA1's a little better, but I like the look of the True's at address, I like the ball flight I get with them, and I'm a tad bit more consistent with the True's than the TA1's. All 3 are excellent sets of clubs, but I felt that the forgiveness of the TA6's was hindering my game more than anything by training me to mis-hit the ball because they're so forgiving. I love my blades.

I definitely carry a 3 and intend to always carry a 3i. Honestly, I don't think it's all that hard to hit. I think most of it is a mental thing. I mishit my 3i less often than my PW because I don't have a mental block about that club, and it always just flies nicely for me. I don't use the 3 very often, because I'm better with my hybrid, but I like to use the 3 out of some of the rougher stuff and off the tee.

I can't offer any advice about the Tommy Armour's or the Rifle shafts as I have no experience with either. I can, however, let you know that you can find better deals than you would expect on some nice blades. I just bought a set of Mizuno T-Zoid Trues and Cleveland TA-1s on eBay for about $125 a piece (used, but still in great shape with no groove wear). Both of those sets of clubs are amazing. The T-Zoids were some of Mizuno's best clubs ever, and I have no idea why they stopped manufacturing them.