zripp3

I'll echo the comments to make sure they're the right ball for your swing, regardless of whether they're "worth" the price. I played them, because they were gifts, but later had a swing analysis done and determined they weren't the best suited for my game.

as an update, I "accidentally" won a set of MP-33's on ebay, 4-PW, for $120 shipped. Hopefully these can be the next step for me. Thanks for all the input and recommendations.

Thanks for all the responses. I'm not sure it really matters at this point in my development (or ever, as some say) between cast and forged, although quality of construction and longevity are always important. I appreciate the link for the 33's, ones I haven't considered. There are just so many variations out there, especially with Titleist, that it seems as long as I stay away from the "unforgiving, preferred by great/low-hcp players" clubs I'll be ok. And I'm only looking for this to be a stepping stone away from GI clubs.

one tip that has really helped me improve with my driver is to pretend I'm shaking hands on the backswing and follow-through. I think I saw this on TGC from Paddy. basically, extend the left arm out (if swinging RH) as if you're shaking hands with it, then reverse on the downswing. I think it helped me promote more of a sweeping motion and hit "up" on the ball (placed on my left big-toe).

I've seen that you play the MP's. Is there a noticeable difference between those and some of the older (pre-2008) titleist models? Unfortunately, it's hard for me to swing those as the shops don't have any on the shelf (not even on the used section), so I can't get a first-hand understanding of the differences.

I've been using the A30S irons/hybrids for about a year now and have seen marked improvement in my swing and performance. After all of the recent threads on blades, etc. I'm thinking of moving away from such a "game improvement" club but would like to stay in the $150-$250 used club range, preferably an older Titleist model, or an abbreviated set of MP-32's (5-PW). My goal in this is to work on my game from a more traditional club instead of relying on the club correcting any deficiencies. Most of what I'm finding in that $ range are the 962/990DCI, 735.CM, and 755's, or MP-32's. Would any of these be better suited than another?

yep, PGA Superstore - it's called the VIP card. Don't know if it's a special promotion they're running now or if it's always the same price.

never seen the monitor used at golfsmith so I don't know what it can/can't tell you about your swing. I do use the equipment at the local PGA superstore and it has helped tremendously. Two cameras set up in the practice bay showing different swing angles, and computer analysis of the shot trajectory. The ability to see the swing coming over the top of the plane has helped me mentally correct my downswing and is starting to straighten out my slice. If the golfsmith monitor can do that I would say it is definitely helpful. $20/use is a personal decision, though, as to what it's worth. PGA is $200/yr unlimited 45min sessions.

There's also a $10 off purchase of $25 or more coupon for Dick's floating around and these are not excluded. I've got the .pdf on another computer. If you've got one locally, and want the coupon let me know.

I'm going to echo Zeph's comments from the other thread he linked. I had the same problem with my 5 and 7. Saturday at the range I started imagining the ball was a few inches in front of its actual location, thereby requiring me to swing down at the "real" ball, trying to almost hit in front of it. At least it makes it seem that way to me mentally. Immediately started putting 10-15yds between those two clubs. Good luck.

5 iron for me - gets me going on the range as well...

I asked this just the other day and was in a similar situation (PW=44, had a 56 CG11). I had several good replies, Birdieman's included, and went with a Vokey 50 and Vokey SM56. I don't think I'll need a 60 until I get more practice with the wedges. If you want to keep the degrees equal, 50 and 55 make sense, but it may depend on which manufacturer you want. Not sure if Cleveland has a 55, without having to have it bent, but I don't see how a 56 would make much more difference. Otherwise I agree with the 50,55, or 52 (if only buying 1).

Vokey oil can 50.04, SM 56.10 box of Tour i's - love them so far

I was looking for the same answer several months ago, best description I found was.. http://www.golfequipmentsource.com/g...ge-bounce.html

great replies, guys, thanks for the input. I've been using the A3OS irons for the past year and have found that I don't really use the 9I anyway. I end up using PW anywhere inside 110, and 56* from the sand or around the green. It sounds as if I need to dive into one approach and experiment, then adjust accordingly. Once I have more than 1 wedge I'll be able to make full swings based on yardage, after much practice... Headed to PGA superstore today to sniff around.

Any practical difference between a 50 and 52 for the "average joe"? Would the 44-52 be too large a gap, or is this even something to worry about?

My PW is 44 and I've got a 56 that I use from pretty much everywhere. I'm looking into new wedges and am curious as to the most versatile choice. 1. keep the 44, get a 50, 54, 58 - get rid of the 56 2. keep the 44 and 56 and fill in with a 52 and 60 3. get rid of the 44 and get a 48, 52, 56 Any thoughts? What factors should I be considering? Thanks.

Excellent timing for your question - exactly the same situation I'm having for those 190-210 par 3's...looking forward to reading others opinions.

I've had similar experiences with the swing type. My 8 year old white hot center-shafted works much better with my pendulum swing than the more traditional ping blade I picked up a couple months ago.

different circumstances in that case. OP asked about fringe shots and I don't consider fringe to be 20' from the green. I agree that from 20' you should definitely be using some wedge, as you stated.

my advice is to leave the wedge in your bag for relatively flat fringe shots and use an 8I with a closed face - similar to a putter stroke - and let it roll to the cup. A buddy "taught" me that a few months ago and my scores have been dropping ever since. Sure, it'd be nice to have the touch to use a wedge and drop it close but until I have time to practice that and have confidence in it, I'll stick with the 8I.

I've never played with an individual caddy, only 4-caddies (1/foursome) on several occasions and had 25+handicap at the time. They were extremely helpful, didn't mind showing reads or recommending shots and fetching balls out of the woods. Those folks really know the course so let them help you. But, like another poster said, treat them well in the end.

1st off - wahoowa to Cavalier. 2nd - I have a great deal of trouble not only getting backspin off my wedges but just cleanly hitting my 56*. That being said it's something I'm working on as I usually use PW and if that doesn't get on I'll bump-run with an 8. But I have learned that you can basically forget about backspin if you're hitting out of the rough - just too much grass interference btwn clubhead and ball. Too me it almost feels like a jerking motion on the downswing as I keep the club low taking it back then "hack" down right at the back of the ball. Also, try to keep the center of the chest over the ball instead of rotating it away. Sounds weird but I picked it up from a Youtube video, of all places, and it actually seems to work.

i've started finding a "spot" about 6" in front of the ball, on the line, and focus on hitting over that spot. think i got the idea from a recent mag article but it's worked for me. helps me at least start on the right line.

I consider www.hobbshole.com my home course (very small hometown, family-owned) and http://www.cityofnsb.com/departments_golfcourse.htm as my "vacation home" course.