Lefty22

Then someone should tell the golf announcers - all of them - because they constantly state that a player is trying to get up and down for bogey. I disagree. If this were true I really think the UD box would be disabled in Scorecard if the score for the hole was bogey or worse. As a rule they have done a very good job of anticipating the values based on a stat being mathematically eliminated (5 with two putts on a par 5 sets GIR to NO automatically, no fairway entry on par 3 holes) so I don't think they would leave the UD stat with entry capability if it was not valid in that scenario. The only difference in UD and SS is one you started from the sand and the other you started from grass (or another non-sand hazard surface). Once again, I am not asking about the definition of GIR or the actual definition of Up and Down. I am asking if you use a putter to perform the action of getting on the putting surface and then into the hole in two strokes are you 2 putting or are you getting up and down. If your answer has anything to do with the total score on the hole and your name isn't Erik then I respectfully disagree...

ESC has nothing to do with the scorecard and the number you write on it for the round - if you shot an 8 on a par 4 you card the 8 on the hole for your total score for the round. When the scores are applied to the handicap the person entering the scores or the software being used makes the allowance for the ESC max ( Scorecard handles this automatically)

I don't think this is correct, the Up and Down stat is autonomous from the total score on the hole, it doesn't "depend". From my understanding it doesn't matter if you're trying to get up and down for birdie, par, bogey, or bogey+ you are still trying to get up on the green and into the hole in 1+1 strokes... I could of course be totally wrong... BTW GIR is totally separate from the context of this question, I have no confusion regarding GIR and don't understand how that entered the equation.

I have a stat tracking question regarding U&D; and putts. I've read before where you've stated that a putt from the fringe is not a putt. So with that in mind, say I hit a 100yd approach and it ends up on the collar next to the first cut (ball on the fringe, almost in the longer grass). If I choose to putt, end up at 3 feet and then hole it out have I gotten U&D; with a 3ft 1 putt? Thanks for any clarification.

+1: it removes a variable from the equation leaving you free to focus on the speed of the putt. Helps me a lot...

Rule 16-1c permits the repair of old hole plugs and ball marks but does not permit the repair of spike damage or other irregularities of surface on the putting green if they are on a player's line of play or putt or might assist him in his subsequent play of the hole. c. Repair of Hole Plugs, Ball Marks and Other Damage The player may repair an old hole plug or damage to the putting green caused by the impact of a ball, whether or not the player's ball lies on the putting green. If a ball or ball-marker is accidentally moved in the process of the repair, the ball or ball-marker must be replaced. There is no penalty, provided the movement of the ball or ball-marker is directly attributable to the specific act of repairing an old hole plug or damage to the putting green caused by the impact of a ball. Otherwise, Rule 18 applies. Any other damage to the putting green must not be repaired if it might assist the player in his subsequent play of the hole.

Name: Jeff Watson Email Address *: forum email Licensed Owner of Scorecard (Y/N): N Number of Rounds in Scorecard: 5 Operating System (and version): OS X 10.5.6 1-3 Sentences about why you'd be a good choice: I'm an analyst for Hilton Hotels Corp in IT systems development; I design and test software for a living (detailed steps to recreate bugs, testing valid conditions to regression test functionality, testing invalid conditions to determine exception handling, etc). Good eye for details in regards to numbers, I work on the revenue reporting/accounting system and validating totals/spotting strange numbers where others miss them is part of the job. Also play nine holes almost every evening after work (the reason I'm not licensed is because I'm waiting for 2.0 just for this) so this gives me a good opportunity to see how these numbers impact the roll-ups and averages in the application, I believe 9 hole rounds is one of the biggest features of the update. Note I can also test the Windows version on XP, Vista, or Server 2008 (albeit in a virtual machine environment) if the OSX beta is full but you still need folks on the Windoze side...

U-Tri Tour or You-Try-Tour. It sounds like the ball for people who are on the "A for Effort" tour.

Get a hooked utility blade to cut off the old grip - way easier, doesn't scrape shafts, harder to cut yourself. I find that on graphite getting the old tape off is easier if you heat it with a hairdryer or something. After that I take them outside and clean them off with just a bit of lighter fluid (removes old glue) and then rubbing alcohol (to make sure there's no lighter fluid left and the tape will stick). I grip them inside on a vise (toe up) with the Brampton's stuff and the 2" wide tape (one strip right down the shaft, it's great) cut to 11" with roughly 1/2-3/4" sticking off the butt end to twist and fold into the shaft. USE PLENTY OF ACTIVATOR - put more on the butt end than you think you need as this will get pushed over by the entire grip and the grip will push the goop forward as you slide it on. If you're using grips where alignment matters (New Decade Multi-compound and the like) I'd also check the grip position from address. setting it on the vise with the toe pointing up gets it close, but I like to make sure the grip is in line with the shaft when the club is in the address position - the NDMC grips have three white dashes you use to line up the grip.

Wow, those Well Struck balls sound like just the thing to pull out on a windy day - Sure wish I knew where to pick up a few dozen of them I'd like to play them even if there's no wind...

44" would be easier that 48" that's the point and you're not getting it. Whatever man, some people use logic I just can't follow. Have fun & swing away.

You look at your answer every time you hit in to the green. Does the ball still stop like you expect/are used to? If so then your wedge is fine. Does the ball roll out much farther than it used too? If so then you need a new wedge.

So when you had the 48" put on, did they remove any weight from the head? If not the swing weight is WAY heavy. The heavier swingweight is possibly slowing your swing down and there's another reason to go to the shorter shaft, it's just making you work harder: swinging and striking the ball. Your whole point of this thread is "What would you do?" so to directly answer the question I'd go down to a 44" shaft and hit the ball in the center of the face and the center of the fairway about 280-300 (your swing speed should have NO problem generating this distance with standard equipment) and just generally beat the hell out of people at GOLF, not a long drive competition.

Sounds like you are guessing at your yardages, play with someone with a GPS/Laser and watch that "diminished distance" change to realistic expectations. If you are guessing you're within 5% of 350 (which means from 332-368) there's a pretty large margin for error (30+ yards) and that's if we even assume the 350 starting estimation wasn't off 30+ yards. If you were +30 on the first guess and then on the low side of your 5% you're now sitting at 304, a FAR cry from the 368 high side if we trust the guess at 350. The whole point of this post is that it has been pointed out time and again on these boards that people who are using course markers, the scorecard, and their second shot as distance gauges grossly over-estimate their distance... BTW from your posts you may consider changing your mindset on your mistakes: first tee jitters didn't cause the topped ball - lack of focus and a bad swing did. The slow play did not cause "many duffs" - you allowed it to affect your focus and it again resulted in you making a bad swing. Sorry if that's harsh but it's real; part of golf is internalizing these things that frustrate and rattle you and then turning that back into focus you can apply to the next shot. I had a great 4 iron on Sunday that was for sure rolling at least to the middle of the green (hit a little short and was running up, back right pin) and it WANGED one of the "No Carts" signs in front of the green defecting into the rough on the short side of the green. This was not the signs fault for being there, nor the fault of the person who put it there, and not the fault of golf carts for existing thus necessitating the need for signs; it was my fault for hitting the sign...

Sweet, post fixed - one of those that could go either way and wanted to make sure I covered the bases

I don't know but it seems like the "better" players are more focused on their game and it frees me to focus on mine more as opposed to looking for balls and such.

Thank you.

Agreed, if you vary from 350 to 250 then the 350 isn't worth mentioning and the 250 is what to focus on. Once again with a regular length shaft you should have no problem getting out to 290+ with your claimed swing speed, the extra length on the shaft is extraneous and detrimental to the overall goal of the drive which is to leave you in good position for your second shot; not "me hit ball: ball go far". 280-290 would be a dream for me as I think you're looking at a wedge in most of the time, I'd be stoked and try to make sure that wedge isn't from the trees. If you really swing 120mph I think you would be dangerous with an X-Stiff 44" in something with a whiteboard profile but I just know what I read here .

My wife drives for me at the courses around Memphis all the time, my home course for sure has no issues with it. I haven't found one that had a problem with it.

(Assuming the top number is a typo) If you are only hitting 250 with a 48 INCH X-Stiff SHAFT then I'd say your shaft is too stiff and you are not making contact in the center of the face. I'm 5' 9" 125lbs and carry about 220-230 with a cut down 44" shaft. With that much leverage difference the potential is there for more distance but it's all for nothing if you don't hit it in the center, if you are making contact in the center then I'd say the flex is wrong because once again with that much whip you should make quite a crack... Going from a 45.5" to 48" shaft is what someone who hits it 310 does when they want to get to 350, not something a 25 does to get to 250 (my opinion).

Pro V1 PRACTICE - Because I feel like the ball is telling me to work harder by yelling at me to "PRACTICE"!!! Seriously though, for $25 a dozen they aren't too much and even at my skill level I can tell these try harder to hold the green. Feel off the putter is preferable to other balls to me, I like the V1 feel while the others feel very hard.

You should check out this eBay Auction It's about as serious as this request deserves; guess at the club - take the one above and below it and rock on - if you still don't have the right club often then work on picking a better "miss" because you're in trouble too much... No need for a Snoopy bag IMO.

I believe this is incorrect. One word - PING

I think for the purpose of this thread it should be assumed that: A.) the OP has determined that Scotty Cameron putters are worth the asking price B.)The only "value" the OP is concerned with at this point has to do with purchasing an OLD Cameron just as a NEW Cameron was released. In both cases just comparing Scotty to Scotty Just mentioning it because we've done the "whole driver/putter, it's just an over-priced anser copy, Scotty's are king/Scotty sucks" thing in other threads and that's totally not what the OP was asking... To the OP: if you like the look/feel of the Select and it's in your price range then it's a great wand. The fact that it's a bit older might make it easier to find for a bit less $$ thus making it even easier to get your $$ back from the purchase of you ever decide to go another route. Be careful buying Cameron stuff on eBay. Good Luck.

Which in the case you outline I deem very appropriate; the poster I quoted seemed to have the attitude that "I'm telling you the rules come hell or high water; if you don't like it then do what I tell you" which I would find very annoying and frankly would not tolerate from a random pairing on the course. Rule books are $2.00 at any golf store - I'd highly recommend you get one if nothing other than to verify questions if you are playing by yourself. For quite a while I was adding a stroke to drop off the cart path and to drop out of concrete course drains, I was quite surprised to find the cart path was not a "play it where it lies" scenario...