Vince

3 wood standard is 43", 5 wood is 42", I've seen factory drivers range fron 44" to 47" but 45" was considered standard for a graphite shaft.

It ws a lot of money but still stupid, Moved from Dallas, TX to Lancaster, PA Q- what was you longest round of golf

I went to the local Dick's yesterday for my normal supplies balls, tees and was just looking around and saw the Callaway FT ibrids $1499.99 for the set. Who on this planet can justify paying that much for a set of clubs?

Pinnacle Gold FX Long Pinnacle, an industry-leading brand synonymous with distance, is the official golf ball for all LDA-sanctioned competitions. (from the LDA web site) Great for all out distance but I can't get them to stop on the green.

Just curious, but how does the ball know the difference between side, back or top spin?

All Long Drive competition overseen by the Long Drivers of America use USGA conforming heads, there’s a slight length of shaft variation (approx 1.5” longer) than allowed by USGA. Strength plays very little in the sport of long drive it’s all clubhead speed.

Just to change shafts you will need. A bench vise Rubber pads to hold the shaft in the vise Heat gun or torch - to heat and loosen epoxy bond. A good glove to grab the head and twist off while still hot. If changing steel shafts only no shaft puller is needed, but required if pulling graphite shafts. A wire brush or equivalent to remove cured epoxy from the heads. A good shaft cutter A 48” ruler to measure shaft length A ferrule installation tool to make that easyer. Ferrule’s A good 24 hour cure shafting epoxy Grips, grip tape and solvent. Acetone to finish the ferrule to the hosel fit- Not needed but makes the install look better All this can be found at golfworks.com along with basic instructions for re-shafting.

If your truly looking for a low spin head, check out the long drive component companies (Krank, Geek, All out golf, Smt) they all make there long drive heads in normal lofts and they are lower spin than factory clubs.

Seems like a great Idea but there site kind of contradicts itself. example If I hit my 7 iron dead on every time, wouldn't I want the entire set built to that 7 iron spec just changing lofts, not to my W-T-F measurement. Just a thought

Grafalloy PROLAUNCH BLUE 55 .335 X Flex according to web site He has 1 left http://www.2puttgolf.com/Closeouts.html

If you you're really looking for a smaller driver, check out SMT golf their Spectrum driver is only 391CC and SMT has some of the highest quality equipment in the industry http://www.smtgolf.com/index.asp

First inexpensive thing to try would be to move the ball back in your stance you could be simply impacting the ball with too much upswing. You should only increase shaft flex if you have the swing speed for it.

If the green was perfectly flat, smooth as glass and absolutely level an alignment aid would work great, but I haven't found that green yet. Regardless of how you point the ball it follows the green, so just take your best guess and putt.

Lessons, the best clubs in world won't help if you can't use them properly. Also get your current irons fit for you, amazing how the proper lie adjustments make all the diffrence.

I've been using the air on/off method for a few years now with no problems. You might want to use mineral spirits instead, soap can leave a film that could allow the grip to slip.

I was in Vegas yesterday and had a chance to try the new Callaway Diablo. Hold off your purchase until you have a chance to try it. 10/10 straight up the middle and not having hit a ball in almost 2 months. I don't like any factory equipment but I am impressed with this.

$400.00 for a driver? Never $150 head from one of the long drive manf. and a good LD shaft set to 48" gets the job done for me.