Hidalgo

Geesh......another moderator-wanna-be. I didn't get "Over the top" as you called it. I simply stated facts. And FWIW...I'm not sensitive in the least. I have actually found it comical. I'm not saying that it was the case in Quinn07's post , but I have seen WAY too many times not only here but in other forums where some people just have to post SOMETHING whether they know what they're talking about or not. I've seen it cost people $$$ and lots of time. I guess that I just have no patience for folks throwing bad info around when other peoples money is involved. I wonder if you'd be so "understanding" if you had been given incorrect advice that cost you upwards of $100? That's what could possibly have happened in this instance as the OP was on the verge of changing grip sizes. Sounds to me like YOU are the one who is sensitive.

My Titleist PW is bent to 45*, and my GW is 50*, so it's not that unusual. To answer the question....If I were you I would put a 54 and a 58 in the bag. Throw out whatever other club you hit worst or use the least.

Good points. proper shafts and proper lengths will either make or break her game. We have had great luck over the years with Callaway Big Bertha woods and irons for the ladies. Other brands are fine also, but that's what we found to be the most "lady friendly" overall.

I prefer the overlapping grip, mainly because it allows the hands to get a little more "involved" in the swing. If you have small hands, shorter fingers, or simply have trouble controlling the clubhead, the interlocking grip also works great. Most pros use a overlapping grip, but Nicklaus & Woods use interlocking....so that should tell you that it works well also. In a nutshell, just use whatever seems the most natural and is most comfortable for you.

Actually, cutting an inch off the butt won't change the flex or playability at all. But you are correct about the swingweight change. Removing one inch will probably cost you 5 or 6 swingweight points....and that's a BUNCH. The only way to gain this back is to add weight to the clubhead. (I was thinking previously about something else) Rule of thumb: Every 1/2" cut from a club reduces the swingweight by approx 3 points. So cutting an inch off will cost you about 6 swingweight points. Every 2 grams added to the head on a graphite-shafted driver gains approx one swingweight point. So to gain back those 6 points, you would need to add 12g to the head. Now here's the problem .......Adding 8-12 grams back to the clubhead will probably dramatically effect the flex of the shaft. It could actually cause a stiff to play like a regular. This is something that you definitely need to consider. Ever thought about just gripping down like Anthony Kim?

If you've never cut a graphite shaft, I'd let someone who has some experience take care of it for you. And be aware that you are "probably" going to change the swingweight to a lighter swingweight (maybe 1-2 points).

I agree. I thought that you were saying that he was moving you from a stiff to a regular in the SAME shaft. Sorry.

Both of these persons are correct....almost. While either manner of shotmaking could be correct in certain situations, NEITHER is a do-all end-all method. You need to have BOTH of these shots in your bag. Don't fret...it's not a big deal to learn to hit both of those shots. And about the bounce factor: You can play either shot with a moderate bounce angle. I play both shots with a 12* bounce club regularly. It's REALLY not that difficult to learn. Just take some balls out in your yard and experiment.

A couple of things here don't add up....... You're too STRONG for a stiff....but he recommended a REGULAR? That doesn't make ANY sense to me. Charging more than the cost of the shaft and $20-30 (at the most) for installation is a joke. Either: (a) Find yourself another "fitter" and get another opinion, or (b) if you trust his opinion (which I find questionable) go to a golf shop (Pro Golf Discount, etc) and have them call Cleveland Golf and order the club for you.

Probably. What brand driver is it, and what shaft are you wanting? Titleist has access to most anything, as does Callaway. Any major shop can order your choice of shafts.

The rules of club selection are like all other rules....they're made to be broken and definitely have exceptions. Drivers are WAY harder to fit in relation to swing speed and ball speed than irons. In my experiences, the only way to truly fit a driver is with a launch monitor or actual course experimentation. I have put 9* drivers in the hands of players who drove the ball 210-220...simply because it was the "best of the available evils" for their game. Several things effect shaft choice besides swing speed. Tempo, angle of approach, and desired trajectory also are huge factors. Driver lofts are also effected by these variables. IMO, 9* isn't that bad of a choice if you can CONTROL the ball with the club. As lofts decrease , side spin usually increases . A driver with too little loft can be hard to control for the average player. To answer your question: Don't worry as much about the number on the sole of the club, but rather about the uncontrollably of the club and the manner in which it delivers the ball down the fairway. Does it obviously hit and stop?....or hit and run? Run is desirable. But does the lower trajectory still have enough carry to get you past most of the trouble that you'll encounter? If not...can you control the ball enough to play around the trouble? This isn't rocket science, and doesn't have definite variables. Find the club that gives YOU what you want. To heck with the rules and "book readings" that you can find.

I just took a count (as best my aging memory can recall) of my trips with clubs. They have made 34 trips give or take a couple. All of these have been in the same SKB hard case. Granted, it looks like total crap from all of the skins and scratches, but it hasn't cracked and the locks still work properly. Maybe I've just been lucky, huh?

I did some checking with the SG-5 and a laser yesterday evening. One of us would hold the pin in the center of the green while the other one used the electronics. Since our course was closed for maintenance, it was a great time to do this testing. Here's what I found out........ I went through the first 14 holes (just riding and checking..no playing) and the SG5 was within 1-2 yards of the laser at the 200 and 150 yard marks. On the 15th hole, it was off by 7 yards at the 200 yard plate, but was dead on at the 150 plate. Strange....... Anyway, the SG5 was well within what I would call "acceptable" ....except for one thing that I found out. On one of the par 3s, it read the same as the laser from the tee box to the center of the green. BUT...the reading to the front of the green with the intelligreen feature was off by 8 yards! Granted, this is the only time that I found this error, it was still concerning. Other readings to the front/back on all 17 other greens was accurate within 1-2 yards. Now here's the GOOD part........ I called SkyGolf this morning, and reported the error and asked them if they had any suggestions. They seemed VERY concerned, and said they would get someone out to the course in the near future to re-check the measurements on that hole and would update their map, and they took my e-mail address and said they would send me an e-mail when it was corrected and would provide instructions for updating the map I already had downloaded! Nice......... Not THAT'S customer service. I have heard reports that their CS is lacking, but I had a very good experience with them. Just thought I'd pass this along.

Zeph, here's the one that I use: http://www.casesbyskb.com/golf/4814W.htm It might seem a little pricey, but I can check it with the airlines and then forget about it.

We just relocated from SC, where we lived in Wild Dunes. Kyle Petty had a home there and played weekly, as did the Governor. Gabriela Sabatini (the tennis player) visited there often and worked on her tennis game, and played golf on occasion. There were lots of times that a "celebrity" would vacation there and play one of the courses. The pro at Kiawah Island was a good friend, and I have been fortunate enough to be invited into the clubhouse and grounds whenever there was an event there. I saw the Ryder Cup and Warburg Cup there, and had enjoyable conversations with Fred Couples and Raymond Floyd, amongst others. Freddie has become a treasured acquaintance over the years (I hesitate to call him a "friend") and I still see or talk with him 3-4 times a year.

Zeph, I've flown with clubs dozens of time and never had an incident. But you have to prepare properly....... "Most" airlines will refuse clubs that aren't in a proper case. I assume that you already have this taken care of. The Club Glove evidently works well because the pros are using them. I personally purchased a SKB hard case. It looks like CRAP after all those trips, but it has done it's job in an exemplary manner. Take all of your clubs. If you don't have confidence in your case to provide protection, you might want to re-evaluate your choice of cases. Quality cases are expensive, but if you are planning on traveling anytime in the future they are worth the cost. I usually wrap a towel around the clubheads to provide another degree of cushioning (and for my peace of mind)

WOW...I didn't expect to see that said..... FourPutt could be EXACTLY right. I've played many different brands and designs over the years. All of them worked after a couple of days using them. BUT...most wedges are different when you change brands (or models for that fact). Clevelands are great wedges, but I have to make adjustments and have swing thoughts when I use them. That's NOT what you want with a wedge when your thoughts should be directed towards the outcome of the shot. Also, I've always liked Vokeys....but the 400 series never lent itself to my game. I'll bet that you have some friends who own other brands that you can take a swing or two with. It might be worth a try......

Understood. But that doesn't change the truth in my statement about bounce angles. There's nothing "elitist" about telling someone how to fix a problem. The bounce angles aren't the problem when you hit it thin or heavy. Sure...there are Band-Aid fixes......but I don't teach that way. Well...I guess this statement will sound sarcastic to you also....but why would anyone suggest that a player spend the rest of their golfing career using a tricked-up club that might work only part of the time, when in just 3-4 hours they can learn how to use a proper tool for the job and have years of enjoyment afterward? A club that provides a Band-Aid fix around the greens will cause many more problems later on in other situations. I'm sorry if I came across sarcastic (or elitist as you termed it) but the truth is the truth. And in my opinion, anyone who comes into a place such as this one asking questions about how to improve their game is "probably" willing to put in just a little bit of time to do it. I've never taken shortcuts when teaching golf. I've seen it done, with varying results. A shortcut usually results in an immediately happy player...but the happiness is short-termed.

According to the Darrel Survey that is correct.

My thoughts exactly. I too have a huge understanding of GPS and thought the statements were made more from hearsay rather than personal experience. I'm a pilot of 37 years who uses GPS often, and also have a great deal of I.T. knowledge. Kinda made reading some of his statements very comical.

I think it means that he closed the thread.....didn't you see that part? I've used the rangefinders also. I prefer the GPS. The only one I have tried is the SG-5. If there are any that have more features and work better I'd LOVE to see them. This thing is amazing. Thanks for the info.

PP, it doesn't make any difference what everyone else plays. They're all great finishes. Get the one that appeals to you the most. Since you asked, I prefer the oil can myself.

Congratulations on using your head and buying quality used clubs instead of tinker-toy new ones. Any of the 4 you listed will serve you well. As for the Big Berthas, don't get so caught up in the later models. The older Bertha irons are great for beginners and will be even more affordable.

I'm sorry. Please except my apology. I didn't realize you had been appointed "Forum Police" for this place. But I DID notice your total of 27 posts. Sorry there...old timer. I guess you'll have to go ahead and ban me now, huh? Did my post take up the space that you had set aside to post something else?

Well.....excuse me all the way to Hell and back. Did you have anything of importance to add to my topic?