delav

Watch your video as it transition from :09 to :10. Your slice is created by a swing path that is across the ball, combined with a face (at impact) that is open relative to this path. Your setup and backswing look pretty good, and I think a few small drills (some mentioned above) will help you approach the ball from the inside and overcome the left-to-right spin. If you can post your swing on YouTube, I'll grab it and provide a few visuals.

Over 120 different women.... wait, was that not the stat you were looking for?

Up for sale is a great set of used irons for a mid handicapper. I used this set while playing in high school tournaments, however after giving up playing during undergrad they sat unused for years. They are a great option for players looking for a blend of forgiveness and playability with a compact head. These are shafted with True Temper S300 Stiff shafts (labels have worn quite a bit) and are currently 2 degrees upright. These clubs can be bent +/- degrees without issue. Brand new Golf Pride New Decade Multi-Compound grips installed ($85 paid). The clubs are in good condition for their age, with mild scuffs and no gouges, dents or dings. Some paintfill on the faces has been worn away, but all clubs have vibrant paintfill on soles and backs of clubs. Email me for questions, buyers pays additional shipping.

I'd like to see the Sharpie paint fix. I'm interested at this point.

Just wanted to update this thread since the purchase. I wanted to move from the PX 6.5 to a TTx100, and I found a set that seemed to fit well. This set was +1/4" with Tour Issue TT x100 shafts and a new set of midsize Golf Pride New Decades. These sticks were supposedly built by the tour department (had the tour ferrule) and played by a mini tour player in AZ. Irons were in great shape and I picked them up for $265. After a few range sessions and 2 after-work nines, I'd have to say I love these irons. The shafts feel wonderful compared to the PX, and these irons are quite a bit more forgiving than my musclebacks without constraining shot shaping too much. This set plays about a club longer for me, and the feel for a cast head is excellent. I can't flight the ball as easily as I could before, but that may come with time and I get used to the new set. For those looking for a great value in a players cavity, these sticks are very solid.

While visiting Napa, I played a round with a bag of Callaway rentals. The driver was a Diablo Octane 9.5 degree, with the PX labeled stiff shaft. While not a perfect fit, this driver was a cannon. I was blown away by the great feel the shaft/head had, and the forgiveness and accuracy of that driver. Go try one!

'Looks of a players iron?' You've got to be kidding me.

I think that these are two pretty different sets of irons sharing the same design language as TM looks to push the weight-cartridge technology. Chances are the weight, width, offset, loft, CG, MOI, etc are very different between these two. After all, the R11 is to replace the R9 line, not really the TP line of clubs. Now whether or not TM should introduce new products as often as they do... who cares. It means cheaper sets of R9s for all.

This isn't what you want to try to do.

Practice taking a slow backswing with your butt 6-8" away from a wall or a fence. You should be able to take a normal backswing without sending the clubhead into the surface behind you. In particular, I've working on feeling the left wrist hinge "up" earlier in the backswing, which helps keep the clubhead outside the hands. In doing so, a good thought is to keep the butt of the grip pointing at your belt on the takeaway. Working with those together should help get the clubhead moving on plane rather than back inside.

Great swing for a younger player! Keep encouraging him as he works on a few changes. There are a few things I'd work on ingraining early in his swing: 1. At setup get him to bend a bit more at the waist and feel more weight on the balls of his feet. 2. Help him work on turning his shoulders steeper (around his spine). Right now it's a bit too flat. 3. Work on impact. He isn't moving his hips forward toward the target, causing him to flip (hook) through the ball rather than leading with his left hand. later 5. The clubhead is getting inside pretty quick. Cocking the left wrist up will help here, but that is later on in the list of things to look at. If I have time tonight, I'll throw things in analyzer and give you a few visuals.

Having seen your swing on the instruction forum, I think a heavier-weight stiff or x-stiff shaft will get you where you want to be. My swing speed is between 108-112 with the driver, and I found that the x-stiff gave me the spin and dispersion I was looking for without any sacrifice of distance. Golf becomes much easier playing from the fairway. What head are you currently hitting? I know the ropes of being a college student and yet wanting new gear. Truth is, yesterdays hot driver is todays great deal. Rather than reshafting yours, you could also pick up a solid used driver with the shaft and loft you need on the cheap. Example of a cheap bomber (don't know what loft you are after): http://cgi.ebay.com/TITLEIST-983K-8-5-DRIVER-FUJIKURA-SPEEDER-X-STIFF-/360383164049?pt=Golf_Clubs&hash;=item53e882ae91

The MP57 is a great club, but I also really liked the 962 for the 10 years it was in my bag. Something to consider - what do you require for irons to fit well? I'm a big proponent of finding something that works and sticking with it, but I'm also cheap. An off the rack set is expensive to make fit (in my case about $200 for bend, grips and lengthen), which makes switching clubs a bit costly. If your standard/standard/standard, this is obviously a mute point. I'd take the time to make sure the shafts in the MP57 are what you'll need. If you've been playing the same shafts for years, chances are something might work better. If they are still a good fit and wont require a bunch of adjustments, give them a shot. The MP57s are great feeling and playing clubs.

Give them a little bit of time. They may not be perfect, but unless your a low-index player they shouldn't be hurting your game too much. If you're hitting big hooks, make sure you're not flipping through impact. Even a fade-bias club can hook badly in the hands of a flipper. I'll typically turn the ball over a bit more with a draw bias club, but it's something that you can compensate for with setup and ball position. And... it may help instill proper mechanics as you work to keep the face square.

Most new wedges will tear into the ball until they are worn-in. My vokeys are in their 3rd season and play wonderfully.

This probably isn't true. Take a slow motion face-on video and watch your hands and clubhead before and after impact, flipping IS picking the ball up. It's almost impossible to properly hit down on the ball without taking a divot afterwards. Take a gander: http://thesandtrap.com/forum/thread/38588/flipping-at-impact-master-thread

This idea would also requires that all "chip" shots would be executed with a square face. I don't know about you, but I wouldn't want to be locked into this by having a flat portion of a grip (putter grip).

This is why game improvement irons have bounce. Those clubs aren't really intended for players struggling with impact mechanics.

Wiser words have yet to be said on this forum. +1

I'd really like to see a video of the 120 yard pitch that happened next.

Thanks for the replies. I've read a few good threads from when they were introduced, and it looks like sets can be found on eBay for around $300 in good condition. I've hit the new MCs and like the feel, but wasn't wild about them enough to spend $800. In addition, new grips (midsize) and shaft upcharges push the price of anything new a bit too high for my liking, and I'm a big believer in the value of lightly-used golf equipment.

I'm curious if anyone has had these in their bag recently? I remember hitting these when they first came out, and liking them quite a bit. I'm thinking of picking up a set as an alternative to the AP2s, which are still very expensive. Any Sand Trap experience?

As others have said, hitting drivers on the simulator is free. Golf Galaxy will not charge you a dime to hit any new driver on the simulator. If you feel the need to have a professional 'fitting' then you can proceed with the club(s) you like best. 'Getting fit' for a driver, is an overused term that is becoming increasing gray as golf shops try and make money here. A real fitting should involve fine-tuning a narrow set of clubheads using a variety of shaft flexes, weights and lofts. Fitting should evaluate drivers based on launch angle, ball speed, ball spin, carry, overall distance, dispersion. A real fitting should also use a launch monitor, not a simulator. Furthermore, if you struggle to keep it in the fairway, paying $50 for a 'fitting' is a waste of money beyond what can be learned from most modern simulators. Also, the VR is likely a poor choice if control is not your strong suit.

Thanks for the update. I'm really considering getting fit for a set of AP2s and mixing them in with my current musclebacks. I would love a more forgiving 3-7 iron.

This cannot be correct... in any dimension?! It takes 4 wraps of tape to make a midsize on most standard grips. I play a midsize with 2 or 3 wraps (depending on butt diameter), and have used a standard with 6 in a pinch.