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Thwak-Thwak-Ting

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Everything posted by Thwak-Thwak-Ting

  1. The set I learnt to play with was from KMart. The brand was Emrik, which is a tennis raquet brand. It contained a 3 Wood, 3i, 5i, 7i and putter. I played with that for a couple of years, then bought a 9i and a 5w, which I played for about another 3/4 years before getting a full set. Having learnt to hit out of sand with those clubs, I can't remember the last time I misshit out of a bunker and I have a pretty good memory.
  2. Funny you should mention this. I've always had my long clubs at the top of bags, ie D, 3w etc, but always found it annoying pulling out irons underneath. I've just purchased a completely new set and now sort them like this: TOP D / 4, 5, 6, 7 3W / 8, 9, PW, GW 2H, P / 54.14, 60.07 Works perfectly. I've got the S-83, so no probs with 4 irons in each hole.
  3. A bad day on the course is better than a good day in the office.
  4. Just been through the process of purchasing a complete new set. I spent the most time on the driver and putter...as you would. Hit a shirt load of putters and desperately wanted to get a SC...as you would. Every SC putter I hit felt like I was putting with a sledge hammer. Never felt the sensation before....was very disappointed. Ended up with a White Hot XG #9. Couldn't be happier. Brilliant distance control, easy to line up and sweet off the face. 5 stars!...well 4.5. The only issue I have is with the cover. Badly designed. Got the hard things right and the simplist thing, that has nothing to do with the putting - wrong!
  5. I don't play alot maybe a couple of times amonth and usually go round in 90...sometime a little under, sometimes a little over. Hit a 38 on the front nine (Par 72 - 36, 36). Was -1 after 6. From the 7th I was like...just got to hold on! Not the best attitude. 52 on the back.
  6. I lost it watching the last bit a number of times. Love it. She bails out and leaves her daughter to fend for herself in the bushes....
  7. Putters are all about feel. If you hit "the one", even on astroturf, you'll know.
  8. Has anyone had trouble fitting this Titleist bag on a cart??? It looks very deep from front to back.
  9. Does anyone know if this bag is imported into the UAE? I spoke to a Titleist supplier who sources from the UK, so no luck - but does anyone know a supplier who sources from the US and can get this bag?!? It's exactly what I want, so I'm hesitant to give up the dream.
  10. I've struggled with the same question. Alot of comments on the forum say 60* is ridiculous and noone should go higher than 58*....but surely there isn't that much difference. I want to get a couple of Vokey's...but hate the way the 58* look with the number on the toe. Shallow I know, but I subscribe to the "you can't hit what you don't like" theory.
  11. I have a 45* and 50* wedge, but am in the process of adding a couple of wedges, but am unsure of what setup to go with....any advice appreciated. I'm considering 3 setups: 1. 54.14 and 60.07 2. 54.14 and 58.04 3. 56.14 and 60.07 Suggestions?
  12. I've demoed the FT-iQ and found it too straight. I can summon up a nice little fade when required. Couldn't do it with the FT-iQ. I've hit the iZ in an indoor range and it felt OK....but you obviously can't tell where it's going.
  13. 6 months on - does anyone have anything else to add to this debate??? Thinking about picking up an FT-iZ.
  14. Does anyone own/could comment on this bag, particularly in comparison with the S82-S83?
  15. The general vibe seems to be get used to using whatever you use to cover all distances and you'll be right. I see a fair bit of logic in the above, but there doesn't seem to be many comments about the 62*.
  16. I read somewhere that tour pro's use 60* wedges as their lob wedge, but lesser golfers should use a greater loft. The vast majority of signatures here contain 60* wedges - is this just because it's the done thing...or there is more of a variety in the bounce selection? Another point is the difference between irons. At the bottom end of the scale the difference between a 3I and a 4I is usually 3*, due to the distance generated. Then most irons have a 4* difference between them. Surely once you get to the shorter irons the difference in loft should be "exponentially" increased? If you have PW 47* and GW 51*, 56* is the standard SW, then surely your lob wedge should be 62*????
  17. LOL - Sticking with the Mizuno's!!! Fair enough. I went through the exercise of buying new irons a few months ago. Though I've been playing for 15 years, I was never an equipment junkie - but I wanted to get good clubs. When I started looking a friend gave me some advice - He said - You'll read all the reviews you can, ask questions on forums, hit a ton of clubs and consider all the options. In the end you'll buy the club that you think looks the best. He was right! Nobody can play good golf with a club they think looks crap.
  18. Last bit of advice - the best place to start when looking for new clubs is the latest (and previous years for that matter) Golf Digest HOT LIST. Super Game Improvement http://www.golfdigest.com/golf-equip...list_sgi_irons Game Improvement http://www.golfdigest.com/golf-equip...?currentPage=1 Players http://www.golfdigest.com/golf-equip..._players_irons
  19. If you haven't looked at the Titleist and Mizuno websites have a look at who they market their irons to. You know your level, see what clubs they recommend. http://golf.mizunoeurope.com/irons/ (click the HCP tab) http://www.titleist.com/golfclubs/irons/default.asp
  20. I'm no guru, but my understanding is it's subjective, as the manufacturers define the club for their target market, while the MPR is an independant study. Certainly Titleist would never define their club as "super game improvement" !!! There are basically 2 types of irons - game improvement (normally cavity backs and larger clubs) and player clubs (smaller cavity and blades). Considering you are starting you should be looking in the game improvement category, otherwise you will have difficulty improving at the beginning and lose interest. Golf is hard...at first!
  21. http://www.ralphmaltby.com/system/as...MPF_Update.pdf This has a simplistic rating system on the playability of different irons, that will help illustrate the points other posters are making. The lower the rating (MPR) the more difficult the club to play. For example the MP-68: MP-68 Forged #6 2010 MPR 342 Category Classic While the AP1 and AP2: AP1 710 #6 2010 MPR 838 Category Super Game Improvement AP2 710 Forged #6 2010 MPR 548 Category Conventional You should be looking primarily in the Game Improvement, Super Game Improvement or Ultra Game improvement categories.
  22. I could be pressed to ditch my 5W (I probably hit it the best), but I'd never ditch my 3W!
  23. Mizuno MP-32 Titleist AP2 The rest
  24. I play a D (G15), 3W (G15), 18.5* 909 D2 and AP2 3 - PW, GW & SW. I never hit the 3I as I strike the 5W pretty well and always seem to go a soft 5W or a strong 4I to fill the void, but I even seem to hit my 4I very rarely. I want to add a LW to my set, so dropping the 3I is easy, but I'd also like to add a hybrid (909H), dropping my 4I as well - meaning my 5I would be my longest iron. If I were to do this would you recommend a 19* or 21* hybrid to fill the void between the 5W and the 5I... or in theory, is this a really bad idea?
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