rdwoody

I just started playing a set of Srixon Z565. They look good, feel good, and are quite forgiving (at least so far). If you have any way to get your hands on some of those to test out, I highly recommend giving them a shot.

This is a 3-PW set of Dynamic Gold S300 shafts that were pulled from a set of Mizuno MP-14 irons. They're .355 tip and they played standard length in the MP-14s. The shafts do not have shaft bands. They look to have been removed (rather poorly) by the previous owner. There is still a little sticker residue left behind on the shaft. It will probably come off with alcohol and a little scrubbing. I didn't bother with it because I decided to go with regular flex shafts after gripping them and never played the shafts other than hitting two balls with the 5 iron. The shafts look to be in good shape. I'd rate them an 8/10 overall. There are a couple that have some minor nicks and dings in the chrome, but nothing serious. The tips will need to be prepped before install. I pulled the heads and then stored the shafts immediately. The grips are 9.9/10. There is no wear on them to speak of. They've barely been handled.

These are back up and for sale this time. Very nice set of MP-57 irons with TT Dynamic Gold S300 shafts and Mizuno branded Golf pride M-21 grips. These irons are in very good shape. There is no browning on the faces like you see with many Mizuno forgings, and the grooves are still like new. There is some minor bag chatter and the normal small nicks and dents on the soles that you expect from a forged iron. I've had these irons for about a year and I've played maybe 20-25 rounds with them. Mostly 9 hole rounds due to me being a poor college student with little spare time over the past 4 years. These irons have seen very little range work since I've had them, so there isn't much playing time on them at all. They are really great irons, I'm just moving back to muscleback irons and hate to have these awesome clubs just sitting in the closet. The picture of the club face is the pitching wedge. It is by far the most "worn" club, if you can even call it that. If you're interested in the irons and you'd like me to take any other specific pictures, just let me know and I'll get them for you as soon as possible. $300 covers shipping CONUS and PayPal. Feel free to make an offer.

I usually follow the "first in" rule, but sometimes it is the second or third. As has already been said, it's usually anybody but the last one in.

I would definitely be interested in checking out what you've got.

Better? That's debatable. When it comes to a particular forging, better is in the hand of the beholder. From my personal experience, Kyoei forgings are some of the softest. That leads to that "hitting a marshmallow" feel when you strike the ball, but that isn't for everyone. Some people like a more positive feel when they strike the ball. Also, Kyoei does many forgings. They sell clubs with their name on them, and I know they do Vega clubs. Outside of those, I'm not sure. But, Miura is not a Kyoei forged club, I don't believe. I think Miura does all their own forging. If you talk to anyone that's ever hit a Miura, they'll tell you that they're the best blades out there and worth every penny. I haven't had a chance to hit them, but I'd like to. I have hit some Vega irons and they are very nice sticks, but I've also hit some Endo forged irons (Nike Forged Blades, my Ben Hogan Apex, and Bridgestone J33B) and they're all just as good, in my opinion. And much, much cheaper. You can get a set of any of those irons for $200-$300 in very good condition. The Vega and Kyoei clubs will be quite a bit steeper and will be harder to come by.

I'm looking for a set of steel shaft pulls 3-PW in regular flex, with .355 tip, and cut to standard length. I'll consider any shafts, but #1 is TT Dynamic Gold R200 or R300 and #2 is Project X 5.0.

I thank you very much for the offer, but I'm holding out for a set of muscleback irons with regular shafts.

I have to go with Dustin Johnson. Although, Ryo Ishikawa is a strong second.

I've done the same thing in going from a hard swing to a slower, smoother swing. I've greatly increased accuracy, but lost quite a bit of distance. If you've significantly slowed your swing, have you changed equipment or are you still using the same stuff? I ask because I have stiff shafts in all my clubs, which were all bought when I had a swing speed ~100mph with my driver and had a very aggressive transfer. Once I smoothed my swing out, I lost a bit of speed (not too much) and completely lost that aggressive transfer which was responsible for properly loading those stiff shafts. I lost a lot of distance, but gained accuracy. Albeit, not as much accuracy as I really wanted. So, I pulled out my old blades from high school, which have regular flex shafts, and took them out to see how I did. I was able to put the ball exactly where I wanted it nearly every time and I gained a full club, distance-wise. Needless to say, I'm about to make the switch to regular shafts. If you're using stiff, you may want to give them a try as well.

I like Dustin Johnson, but my favorite PGA golfer will be Tom Watson as long as he's still playing tournaments.

Haha, yeah, I know it. I struggled to get through 9 yesterday afternoon. It was rough out there.

I've been playing almost exclusively at Chickasaw since I moved back to Henderson. I wouldn't mind playing a couple times a month at all. My #1 golf partner just moved to Knoxville to start grad school, so I'm left trying to round up whoever I can to go play. I've been playing for about 10 years now and I went and played my first solo round a couple weeks ago because I couldn't find a partner.

Man, to have played that little lately and still be scoring that well makes me feel bad. Heck, I've played 6 or 7 times in the past month and I'm not playing at the top of my game yet! Maybe I need to meet up with you and you can get me onto that good stuff, too! My driver is really the thorn in my side right now, too. Yesterday, I shot par or better on every hole that I hit the fairway on. The others turned out pretty messy. I just need to dial the swing in a bit. When I hit it well, I hit a nice draw, but that swing also causes some pushes. It's just not quite there yet. My iron play has taken a hit recently. A shaft change is really in order for me. I've made a lot of changes to my swing recently that slowed me down slightly and gave me a very smooth tempo. Without my former aggressive transfer, I'm just not properly loading my shafts anymore and it just feels like crap. I took my old blades from high school out yesterday (they have R shafts) and struck the ball better than I have in 3 or 4 years. Anyway, it really sounds like you're on a good track if you're hitting about a club longer than usual.

Up for trade is a set of Mizuno MP-57 irons in very good condition. The irons are standard length and lie with Dynamic Gold S300 shafts. The grips are stock Golf Pride Mizuno branded M-21. The grips are like new and have 99% of their life left in them. The grooves on the irons are all in great shape and there is no browning on any of the faces. The irons have a bit of bag chatter and the regular dings in the sole due to the soft forged metal. The picture of the face is the PW, which is by far the worst looking face. I really like these irons, but I prefer the look and feel of pure blades. The shafts are also a little too much for my deliberate iron swing, so I'm looking for a set of blade irons with regular flex shafts. As far as trades I'm open to, I like Mizuno MP-14, MP-33, and MP-29 if you have a set in similar condition to the MP-57s. I'd also take a set of TN-87 if anybody wants to let go of some of those I'm also looking for Bridgestone J33B or J36B, Srixon Pro-100, Nike Forged blades (I prefer the VR TW blades over the old forged blades, but I'll consider either). Certain models of Hogan blades, MacGregor blades , and Maxfli Australian blades will do the job as well. If you have any other irons you think I may be interested in, offer away. I'm willing to add or accept cash as appropriate for the deal. Thanks for looking!

There are gas carts at a couple places I play and electric carts at one. The electric carts there are WAY faster than the gas carts! Anyway, are you sure they're dying and it's not just you accidentally putting in in neutral? Because that actually happened to two of my college roommates. They were playing on the back and were about as far away from the clubhouse as you could be (and it's a big course), when the cart just wouldn't go anymore. They walked all the way back to the clubhouse and told them the cart was dead. They told me about what happened later and I had a good laugh at their expense. But the best was yet to come. The next time they went to the course, I was playing with them and the same cart guy was standing there when we went into the clubhouse. They asked him if he got that cart back up to the barn last time and he said, "yeah, it wasn't dead. It was just in neutral." I thought I might die laughing so hard about it.

Some of these things are quite the opposite of what I would expect to hear. It seems odd to me that working at a course would make you quit golfing or give you substantially less time to play because my experience has been radically different. I, personally, have never worked at a course, but I have several friends who have. When we all got to that age in high school where we were getting cars and such, we all started looking for part time jobs. In my small town, you really only had two choices. You could work at a grocery store or you could work at a restaurant. However, there was one other choice that a few people decided on, and that was working maintenance at the local course. I've had 5 or 6 good friends that took that job just to make a little spending money who had never even picked up a club. They all ended up picking up the game and loving it. Of course, they didn't have any limits out there. They could play whenever they wanted, as much as they wanted. All for free. My experience may be a lot different from many people's, I guess. But, I remember the pro at the course when I was in high school seemed to be on the course all the time. It seemed like, if he wasn't giving a lesson, he was on the course. And he didn't give many lessons!

You can see most of my bag in my signature. The shafts are as follows: G15 - Mistubishi Rayon JAVLNFX V6 Stiff Dymo 3W - Stock Nike Branded UST Stiff 5W - really soft steel shaft of unknown brand Irons - Dynamic Gold S300 Wedges - Dynamic Gold S200 I no longer have the 60 degree wedge. I'm currently on the hunt for something to take its place. I've been satisfied with the Vokeys, but that's it. Just satisfied. I'm really looking for some wedges that I'm elated with. The search goes on... I really HATE my fairway woods. The Nike Dymo 3 wood is least used club in my bag. I just really, really don't like that club. I can't hit it consistently at all. If I could get somebody to trade me any sort of decent fairway club for it, I'd let it go in a heartbeat. The 5 wood is just an old one I had from a set back in high school. I never use it much now and I didn't really then either. The shaft is too soft for me and, again, I can't hit it consistently. I'd like to replace it with a 2i, as I'm much more consistent with irons from the deck. I love the irons. The only thing I want to change about them is the grips. The stock M-21 grips just don't really do it for me. I'm planning on fitting them with a set of Golf Pride New Decade grips very soon. I haven't actually gamed the Bimini yet, so I can't comment too much on it. I think I'm really going to love it, though. It replaced an old center shaft Odyssey White Hot #2. That putter was solid for me for years. I can't really complain about it at all, but I can't really dote on it either.

Lucas Black really is a bad actor. He hasn't been decent in anything since Sling Blade. But, Robert Duvall is great. Maybe, just maybe, he can offset Black in this movie.

Different materials will either make the ball harder or softer. A harder ball allows for a more efficient transfer of energy from the club, therefore making it travel further. I've never seen a study on how that affects the flight (lift, drag, etc.), but it may be worth looking into. Personally, I don't think it would have a really significant effect, but I can't say for sure.

That I can understand. The actual tunnel wasn't very expensive to build, but they did have some rather expensive instruments that allowed them to quantify what they were seeing. I didn't think about you probably not having access to instruments like that.

Yeah, I can't think of any other way than using a wind tunnel. A couple guys I went to college with built one for a design project. It only cost them about $50, I believe. I don't know exactly what they did because I studied electrical engineering and they were in a mechanical class that I didn't take. But, knowing these guys, I just about guarantee the idea and, most likely, the design, came from somewhere around the internet. You could probably find something like that if that is a possibility for you. It would be perfect for your purposes. It was only about 2' x 1' x 1' or so.

You have two equations and two unknowns. You just need to use them together to solve for Cd and Fd. So, since Fd = -Cd*V, that means -Cd*V = 0.5P*V^2*Cd*A. Once you solve that equation for Cd, you can then use that value to calculate Fd. I don't really know what else you could investigate, but you seem to be on a pretty good track with this. Is this not going to yield enough information? EDIT: I noticed after posting that if you go straight at it like that, Cd divides out. I didn't really think that one through. That obviously won't help you.

I have a Mitsubishi Rayon JAVLNFX in that same driver that I really love. It gets the ball in the air, but it really flattens out and takes off in my experience. They all may be a bit heavier than what you're looking for, but I think the M6 is just slightly over 60g.

What loft is your pitching wedge? Maybe you should consider a 50 or 51 degree gap wedge.