rasky44

Right now I have a 3 way tie between my 4 wood, my 8 iron and my putter. All three are money right now, I bet I could post a very similar score to what I'm shooting now using just these 3 clubs.

I'm going to agree with the other posts. I have the exact same problem as you and I noticed that with the short irons I have the tendency not to slide my hips at all. Just the other day I needed a birdie on number 18 to break my best score at a local course. I hit nine iron at the green and pull hooked it across the road and out of bounds. After my drop I concentrated on the hip slide and knocked the same shot within a foot of the hole, doh!!!

You should try to hit them somewhere, for sure. I recently replaced my fairway woods and tried out a bunch. The two you mention were my final two choices. The TM was a beast off the tee, I was really crushing it. However, I had no luck hitting it from the ground. I ended up with not only the G15 4wood but the 7wood as well. Great clubs, that really work for me.

Go to www.toolhaus.org and put his seller id in and read all the feedbacks and you should get a pretty good feeling whether he is legit or not.

Played a par 3 course 2 weeks ago. 3rd hole was 156 yards uphill. I hit an easy 6 iron and thought my shot went over the green and into the bunker behind. As I was walking to the green the group behind me (their tee box was to the right and elevated from my green, giving them the perfect vantage point) started congratulating me. I holed it for my first ace, and none of my regular playing partners were there, ughhh!

I'm about 6'2" with a wtf just over 37". I was fitted with 1/2" over and 2º upright for my Callaway X-20's. Not everyone will be the same, as said above, short/long arms/torso/legs and don't forget that irons will come with a different "standard" length and lie. I never had to conciously adjust my swing to a flatter or more upright plane, but I was fit for my irons when I started playing golf. I guess you could have a little problem adjusting if you had been playing clubs that were the wrong specs. Have you hit your clubs on a lie board or was your fitting just static?

I left my driver on the computer desk today, on purpose. I shot my best round of the year. I'm not long with my 4 wood (about 215yds), but I hit it straight and, most importantly, stayed in bounds. I think I'm going to bench the driver for awhile, at least until I can get to the range and hit the driver some more.

I regrip mine immediately as I use midsize grips. It is very easy to do yourself. I don't have a vice and I do it all the time (both my clubs and those of friends). Only "specialty" tool I have is an aluminum roasting pan (cheap throwaway) to catch the solvent.

I guess my explanation was a little off. I didn't mean to take a divot just for the sake of taking a divot. I was looking more to be more consistent with the low point in my swing. Today I may hit the ball really fat then tomorrow hit them thin. I aim to cut down on the inconsistency of the low point. I plan on hitting alot of balls at the range, just looking for some things to do around the house. Today I used the sand spot in my yard where my kids' pool goes up in the summer. Just drawing circles in it for chipping targets. A net sounds like it may be a good purchase for me. Thanks all, keep em coming.

I was fit for the same driver you have and have a similar swing speed. The numbers you are getting are about exactly the same as mine. I hit the occasional 250 yard drive, but only about as often as I hit the 210 yard drive. 220-230 is pretty consistent for me and I hit my 8 about the same distance as your's as well.

From my limited experience I say that you are hitting at the ball instead of through it. My problem right now is that I can't even take a divot when there is no ball.

I'm looking for some drills that would be beneficial for all golfers. I don't have any video of my swing, so I'm not going to diagnose myself or expect anyone else to. What I'm looking for are some good all around drills that groove a good golf swing. I'm already thinking about working on having a consistent bottom of the swing (trying to start divots on the target side of line drawn in the grass) and chipping in the yard. Anything else you can think of is appreciated. I won't be able to hit balls other than the chipping and I'm not afraid to take divots all over the yard. Thanks for any input.

Thanks fellas.

When you guys use the compressor method do you still put a little grip tape on the end to help seal the end of the shaft or is this unnecessary?

http://www.nike.com/nikeos/p/nikegolf/en_US/products/details?sku=GD1381 Scroll down and click on the picture with the blue, yellow and red arrows. That opens the whole settings chart. In regards to whether the settings mean the same thing for leftys, I have no idea. Best bet is probably to email Nike and get the answer from them. They have been quick in answering for me in the past.

I don't have the VR, but on my Dymo Str8 the "R" does indicate 2º open.

My wife has a Kodak Playsport, do you think that is more useful for analyzing a swing?

Has anyone tried the new Tiger Woods swing app for the iphone? What did you think? Worth the cost? I've had it keyed up twice only to back out at the last moment. When using something like this how do you keep your phone steady for the video? Seems if I were to let my wife video me the camera would be pretty shaky. Thanks.

What are the settings you use on the GPS settings screens? I'm particularly interested in the background gps setting and auto lock. I'm wondering what the optimal setting is for accuracy as well as battery life. Any other battery saving tips that are not in the user manual? I'll be playing in a scramble next week and will be the first time I'm using this gps. Thank you.

I got one as well.

I tried the Skechers on the other day and they were very comfortable. I did notice the same as you said, however. Not really sure how the feet will hold up after 18 in them. Sooooo, I found the Trues at a bit of a discount and took the plunge. After getting them, I sure would pay the full retail price of them, and will likely order another in a different color when my size is back in stock. Very comfortable, the rubber on the sole is pretty substantial (not in size, but in a way that seems it will be very durable, if that makes sense). I honestly didn't want to take them off, but the ugly stuff outside made me not want to dirty them up at this time. Can't wait for this snow/ice to melt and let me get back out to the course. Thanks for the replys fellas.

I'm looking for a pair of spikeless shoes for this upcoming golf season. I really like the looks of the True Tours and like the reviews I've been reading. That said, I'd hate to spend $150 for a pair of shoes that may not last a few seasons. I probably won't wear them off the course, except for the days I'm going to play or when I go to the range. If these shoes would last 2-3 years, then I just don't see a problem putting out the dough. I also looked at some Skechers, Urbantrack I think, that look like the soles would provide some traction without the spikes. I doubt they'd be waterproof, and I wonder how the comfort is while walking 18 holes, but they are about 1/3 the cost of the Trues. Hopefully some here will have experience with both type shoes and be able to chime in. Thank you for any info that may help me.

http://www.callawaygolf.com/Global/en-US/Products/ClassicProducts/X-20Irons.html When you go to Callaway's website scroll over golf equipment then choose classic products at the bottom of the list.

I'll third Callaway preowned. If you can use it there, you will find great deals. I got my irons in "like new" and all were still wrapped except the 6 iron and even that had no marks on it.

I saw them on there. Great price. I was looking for the "high launch" set 54/58/64, but may just go for these at this price.