Jump to content
IGNORED

Club gaps??


TN94z
Note: This thread is 5547 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

  • Moderator
I am going to really get serious about taking my golf to the next level this year, so I am picking apart what I have been doing, my clubs, my swing, etc... My question here is how much gap is too much gap in distance between clubs? For instance, here is my breakdown (these are all the clubs in my bag):


Driver-240-270
1iH-200-220
3i-190-200
4i-180-190
5i-170-180
6i-160-170
7i-150-160
8i-140-150
9i-130-140
PW-120-130
52 degree-100-115
56 degree-85 max
60 degree-60 max

Give or take a couple of yards and these are basically my yardages (these are all carry distances..no roll). Pick me apart guys...Do you think I could do without clubs in your opinion? Do I have too many wedges, etc...? What do you guys think?

Bryan A
"Your desire to change must be greater than your desire to stay the same"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I think your gaps are fine at the top end and about normal for most players. Larger gaps with longer clubs is normal. On the wedge end I can tell you've got some gaps that you might not feel quite comfortable. I'm not sure what irons you have and therefore I'm not sure what the lofts are, but that seems like too much gap between PW and 52, and likewise with other wedges. Typically with wedges you don't want more than 10 or so yards gap between club and you want that to be a consistent gap. Based on your listed gaps, I could see you strengthening up your wedges, possibly going to a 50*, 54*, 58*. That would theoretically add a few yards to each of those clubs because of stronger lofts (and 58* is just easier to hit with full swing than 60* IMO).

Of course, like everything in golf, it's somewhat a personal thing. You have to carry the clubs you feel most comfortable with.
Driver: SQ DYMO STR8-Fit
4 Wood: SQ DYMO
2H (17*), 4H (23*) & 5H (26*): Fli-Hi CLK
Irons (5-6): MX-900; (7-PW): MP-60
Wedges (51/6*): MP-T Chrome; (56/13): MP-R ChromePutter: White Hot XG 2-Ball CSPreferred Ball: e5+/e7+/B330-RXGPS Unit: NEOPush Cart: 2.0
Link to comment
Share on other sites


  • Moderator
I currently hit the Mizuno MP32s. It's funny that you mention this because I have been contemplating changing from a 60 to a 58. So you think maybe stronger wedges?? Maybe I should think about changing all 3??? Hmmm. Thanks

Bryan A
"Your desire to change must be greater than your desire to stay the same"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I agree with Kappa your gaps look good throughout the set until you get to the wedges. Looking at your distances, I'm about 10 yards behind you in the irons but equal to or little in front of you on the bottom 3 wedges. Now that is not to say that what I am doing with the wedges is more correct or anything like that. It just leads me to believe, there may be something changing in your swing or equipment-wise in those clubs. Of course the idea with wedges isn't to hit them as far as you can, but to hit them to a consistant distance.

I think the short term answer would be to bend them a little strong. Also, of course, stated loft doesn't tell the whole story. Are you hitting the same shafts in those clubs? Are the heads of a design that puts the COG lower than your MP32s and thus leading to a higher flight and a little distance loss? Maybe you slide more with you wedges and thus add loft (or don't deloft as much). Are the grooves so aggresive that you spin the ball enough to baloon and actually loose distance?

Well you get the idea, a lot of variables. Short term you could just bend them stronger. And remember stated loft doesn't tell the whole story.

Good Luck!
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I think your gaps are just fine.

Whats in my :sunmountain: C-130 cart bag?

Woods: :mizuno: JPX 850 9.5*, :mizuno: JPX 850 15*, :mizuno: JPX-850 19*, :mizuno: JPX Fli-Hi #4, :mizuno: JPX 800 Pro 5-PW, :mizuno: MP T-4 50-06, 54-09 58-10, :cleveland: Smart Square Blade and :bridgestone: B330-S

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Ok this is valid for the clubs I've just traded:

I was thinking that 3i through SW we're in the same range. My GW is 50deg but I don't get more distance than you. The only thing I would say is my LW goes a little further, max of 70. I think you're pretty well covered.

What's in the bag
Big sticks Ping Rapture V2 9° Fusion FT-3 3-Wood, 3,4 Hybrid

Irons Ping I10 5-GW
Wedges Cleveland RTX 54° Spin Milled Vokey 60°Putter Redwood Anser Titleist NXT Tour 1500 rangefinder

Link to comment
Share on other sites


My initial thought was you are fine with what you have (as long as you are good at the 730 900 and 1100 positions to vary shot distance with the short irons, and can hit high fades or knockdowns to shorten the distance of the longer clubs.

On second thought, consider replacing the 1Hi with a 15*3wood you can hit off the deck.

Always remember short game, short game, short game and putting, putting, putting are what get your scores lower.

HiBore XLS Tour 9.5*
Adams Fast10 15* 3W
A2OS 3H-7iron 60* LW
8iron Precept Tour Premium cb
9iron and 45* PW 50* GW 56* SW m565 and 455 VfoilPutter Anser Belly Putter Ball in order of preference TPblack e5 V2  AD333

Link to comment
Share on other sites


  • Moderator
I agree with Kappa your gaps look good throughout the set until you get to the wedges. Looking at your distances, I'm about 10 yards behind you in the irons but equal to or little in front of you on the bottom 3 wedges. Now that is not to say that what I am doing with the wedges is more correct or anything like that. It just leads me to believe, there may be something changing in your swing or equipment-wise in those clubs. Of course the idea with wedges isn't to hit them as far as you can, but to hit them to a consistant distance.

Well, on my wedges (all are the Cleveland CG12s with standard bounce and shafts), I don't go at the them as hard because I end up getting under them way too much if I do...so that is probably the distance difference on those. Mainly my LW and SW. I usually go at my GW pretty full. I would say that I don't "deloft" as much on those.

My initial thought was you are fine with what you have (as long as you are good at the 730 900 and 1100 positions to vary shot distance with the short irons, and can hit high fades or knockdowns to shorten the distance of the longer clubs.

Just out of curiosity, why do you suggest getting rid of the 1Hi for a 3-wood? I have a 3 wood, I just don't use it. I hit the 1Hi off the deck with no problems. I can hit the 3W off the deck just as well.

Bryan A
"Your desire to change must be greater than your desire to stay the same"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

not to hijack or anything but speaking of club gaps

anyone know where i can find out the loft of my clubs?

I think theres a formula out there based off like swing speed and loft to find out how far the carry and all that is??? so i can come up with an average number to figure out the gaps

but i dont know the loft of my irons i know my wedges, but not the irons

i have big bertha 06 irons uniflex shaft

r7 draw driver 9.5* stiff shaft
Big bertha 06 irons, 4-sw
56*vokey spin milled 10*bounce
Victoria ;)
tp black balls cart bagJack nicklaus Golden Bear 52* and 60* wedgesWalter hagen: 3 wood 5 wood 4 hybrid stiff shaft"I don't say my golf game is bad, but if I grew tomatoes they'd come up sliced."www...

Link to comment
Share on other sites


If you hit your 1Hi better than the 3wood, stay with what you have. In general, people hit their 3 wood further. I noticed that you drive 240-270 and your 1Hi goes 200-220. It was the largest gap you had. I am now able to hit 3 wood off the deck (sonartec S001 15* $38.95) and with my 2008 Burner $100, I am now able to get on almost all par 5s in two when playing from the whites (when I play with high handicappers) and most par 5s in two when I play from the blues and blacks.

Being able to hit the par 5s in two has really improved the enjoyment of the game. However, if you hit your 1Hi better, stick with what you have.

HiBore XLS Tour 9.5*
Adams Fast10 15* 3W
A2OS 3H-7iron 60* LW
8iron Precept Tour Premium cb
9iron and 45* PW 50* GW 56* SW m565 and 455 VfoilPutter Anser Belly Putter Ball in order of preference TPblack e5 V2  AD333

Link to comment
Share on other sites


try google searching your irons and include the word loft.
for example http://www.callawaygolf.com/Global/e...fications.html

or call a very good golf store
or call callaway, but I think I just accurately answered your question with the above link.

HiBore XLS Tour 9.5*
Adams Fast10 15* 3W
A2OS 3H-7iron 60* LW
8iron Precept Tour Premium cb
9iron and 45* PW 50* GW 56* SW m565 and 455 VfoilPutter Anser Belly Putter Ball in order of preference TPblack e5 V2  AD333

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I'm new here, but I have a lot of experience in club fitting and adjustments.

I'll offer this..... To start with, I wouldn't recommend that ANY player carry a 60* wedge. A 58* will do fine, and it can be laid off to adjust for shorter shots and flops if necessary. I've been doing this for a long time. Be VERY careful adjusting lofts, especially if you're going stronger. Bounce is a huge factor to consider and it can cause dramatic changes to your iron's playability. Bounce is your friend if you're an amateur and lack of bounce will cause digging and poor shotmaking. Also, there are very, very few shops that are capable of making a PROPER loft adjustment. Lie angles come into play and most cast clubs will "spring" back to some degree. What you leave the shop with might not be what you have after 2-3 rounds. Also, a 10-yard range for your clubs is not appropriate. Granted, you might not hit them solidly each and every swing, but you nevertheless need to know EXACTLY how far they move the ball when properly swung. I don't care what your playing level, you can make enough good swings to get a clear picture of the club's yardage to within 2-4 yards given enough time and effort. (If my caddie gave me a 10-yard range I'd fire him on the spot) Most amateurs would benefit more from learning to hit the ball solidly every time, and control their accuracy. More shots are missed side-to-side at the amateur level and yardage doesn't factor in as much when that is the case. Learn to make solid. consistent contact 95% of the time and learn to make the ball "go where you're looking" and your game will improve dramatically. Then you can worry more about your distance control.
Being able to hit the par 5s in two has really improved the enjoyment of the game. However, if you hit your 1Hi better, stick with what you have

Getting to a 5'er is not very important, IMO. It's a great tool to use if you can hit a long shot ACCURATELY, but most players will miss the green and then end up in an awkward position. Much more scoreability to lay up to a good yardage for your favorite wedge, hit it close and make the birdie that way. I've seen more big numbers made going after a par 5 than I care to talk about.

Just my opinion...and it's probably worth what you just paid for it.
Link to comment
Share on other sites


  • Moderator
If you hit your 1Hi better than the 3wood, stay with what you have. In general, people hit their 3 wood further. I noticed that you drive 240-270 and your 1Hi goes 200-220. It was the largest gap you had. I am now able to hit 3 wood off the deck (sonartec S001 15* $38.95) and with my 2008 Burner $100, I am now able to get on almost all par 5s in two when playing from the whites (when I play with high handicappers) and most par 5s in two when I play from the blues and blacks.

Oh, I can hit my 3w further no doubt. I just never have that long of a yardage into a hole. I know on the par 5s I have that yardage in, but if I can't get there with the 1Hi, I just lay up. I might throw it back in there just to see how things go.

I'm new here, but I have a lot of experience in club fitting and adjustments.

Very good points about the wedges. Right now, I have a broken 60 and I am looking into buying a new 58 and not getting the loft on an existing club adjusted.

I hit the ball fairly solid every time, with the exception of the few times I keep my weight on the back. I have never gotten serious enough to get my iron yardages down to the yard and that is why I have those ranges up there. I understand what you are saying though. I was basically just asking about the use of clubs that I currently don't use.

Bryan A
"Your desire to change must be greater than your desire to stay the same"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Note: This thread is 5547 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...