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Posted
Hello everyone,

I'm looking for getting new irons for the upcoming seasons to replace my Mizuno MP33 blades with something more forgiveable (current HCP: 18.3).

Both the Taylor Made r7 as well as the r7 draw (both with graphite shafts) look promising to me. Can anyone comment on their relative merits? Does either one fit my current playing capabilities (with some headroom for future improvement)? My iron shots are usually pretty straight, so I don't need the "draw" to correct some inherent fade/slice. Is the r7 worth its higher price (at least in Europe)? Any input would be highly appreciated -- thanks a lot!

Best, T.
Driver: Wilson DD6
Hybrid: TaylorMade Rescue
Irons: Mizuno MP-33
Wedges: Mizuno Tour Style 52/7 and 56/11
Putter: Ping JAS Anser

Posted
I actually own a set of r7 draw irons which are very forgiving. I've been fortunate to play a round with the r7 irons as well as one of my friends own them, and I honestly didnt find that much of a difference with the exception of feel. The r7 draws felt a bit heavier because the weight at the heel. I've moved to a different set taylormade's since (RAC TP/MB forged) because i wanted to refine my game and get more of a pure swing, so i figured forged clubs...lemme give it a go. Since you said you hit the ball pretty straight as is, i would recommend the regular r7 irons. I know last year the r7 draws got rated best game improvement clubs (if im not mistaken) by either Golf Digest or Golf.com. That's why I bought them. Those are my two cents...

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Posted
I used to play with the R7 Draw Irons before switching to the MP32s. The R7 irons are much bigger and thicker. It will be an adjustment at address. As for the perceived "draw bias" I did not notice this. Frankly, I never hit a draw unless it was my intent. They are very forgiving and you won't feel a bad shot. You'll just see it. It's a night and day difference and am sure it will be for you, too.

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Posted
Ive heard good things about taylormade's rac series of irons if you're set on that brand.
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Posted
If you have a neutral ballflight, definately go with the regular. The offset irons seem to get a little more hung up in rough for me.

As for the price: I checked the site, and it looks like the standard steel shafts in the R7 draw are a light 90g shaft. The regular R7's do as well. You might go with the R7 TP's if you want a more consistant shaft like the dynamic golds.

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Posted
Hello everyone,

Can't help you any on the price. Google the model and you'll get some comparison pricing.

In my experience, clubs that says "Draw" on them sit around two degrees closed. They are designed for and marketed to slicers.

Best, Mike Elzey

In my bag:
Driver: Cleveland Launcher 10.5 stiff
Woods: Ping ISI 3 and 5 - metal stiffIrons: Ping ISI 4-GW - metal stiffSand Wedges: 1987 Staff, 1987 R-90Putter: two ball - black bladeBall: NXT Tour"I think what I said is right but maybe not.""If you know so much, why are you...


Posted
Thanks, guys! That already helps a lot. Since I have a quite neutral ball flight (as said, I'm playing blades right now) I guess the r7 would be the way to go.

My main reason to go from my trusted blades to something more forgiving is that, unfortunately, I just don't have so much time to work on my game right now. This is why my pro also suggested to go with graphite shafts instead of steel (which I'm having now).

Anyway, guess I'll try to get a demo set and try a couple of shots with the r7. Thanks again!

Best, T.
Driver: Wilson DD6
Hybrid: TaylorMade Rescue
Irons: Mizuno MP-33
Wedges: Mizuno Tour Style 52/7 and 56/11
Putter: Ping JAS Anser

Posted
Thanks, guys! That already helps a lot. Since I have a quite neutral ball flight (as said, I'm playing blades right now) I guess the r7 would be the way to go.

I would suggest the r7. r7 draw is not only a closed face and weighted to help you stop slicing, it is also a super game improvement club- thicker soles, thicker top line, more offset. For your handicap r7 seems right.

I would also check out the Callaway X-20. Seems perfect for you.

Note: This thread is 6496 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
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