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Posted
Ok,

I don't live anywhere near a GolfGalaxy or Golfsmith so any club work has to be done by the local mom and pop. To be fair I haven't priced them yet but will.

I was wondering what you are all paying for a reshaft of a driver?

I often see just driver heads on e-bay and was thinking if I picked one up cheap enough, I could be into a driver cheaper than the whole thing @ Dicks and have a shaft that might be better for me to begin with than the stocker on say a TM Burner.

So what are you all payin' for a reshaft?

Andrew


Posted
I was wondering the same thing. I can get a Sasquatch 3W w/ a ladies shaft for $25. I would need a reshaft.

Does Dick's do reshafting?
What I Play:

Driver: Sasquatch SUMO² 9.5º Stiff
Hybrid: HiBore 16º (3W replacement)
Irons: Staff Ci6 3-PW StiffWedges: Vokey Spin Milled 54.10 60.04Putter: Newport Studio Style 35"Ball: Pro V1xAge: 15

Posted
I have been working on clubs for 15 years and as far as the cost of reshafting clubs, I usually charge $10 per club plus the cost of the shaft (including shipping and taxes it took to get the shaft to me). Most clubmakers might charge you more for this service because some believe to be competitive with pro clubs, they need to charge more, thinking price gives them credibility. I do it for a hobby and back when I was younger I snapped a few shafts on trees and over my knees. Go to Golfsmith.com and look through the shafts, find one you like, then find a clubmaker local to you. See what his charges are for reshaft. Good luck, if you have trouble finding one, contact me, I'll help you out.

Driver: TaylorMade r7 460 / 11.5 degrees
Irons: Titleist 822 OS (4, 5, 6)  Titleist 962 (7, 8, 9, P, G)
Putter: Tear Drop
Ball: Precept Laddie
Wedges: Golfsmith Snake Eyes 56 degrees / 60 degrees

18 Hole Low:  67   /  9 Hole Low:  31


Posted
Thanks man - appreciate it. I need to get schooled on shafts now.

Andrew


Posted
What kind of shaft are you looking for?
WITB

Driver - Taylormade r7 Quad 10.5˚ Fujijura E360 Stiff
Woods - Sonartec SS 2.5 13˚ HST Penley Tour Stiff
Hybrid - Sonartec HB-001 19˚ HST Penley Tour StiffIrons - Mizuno MP-67 Forged 4-PW, DGS300Wedges - Callaway Forged 50˚ and 54˚, Walter Hagen 60˚Putter - Nike T130 O/S Mallet Ctr Shaft 33"B...

Posted
Nothing specific - these are driver heads and heads only - I am hoping to get a driver on the cheap. I don't know enough about shafts and the theory yet to pull the trigger.

Andrew


Posted
I use a Grafalloy Blue shaft in Tour Stiff Flex. I probably don't swing fast enough to need this shaft, but I love the way it feels. There is very little torque at impact. It just feels solid. I have the same shaft in Stiff Flex on my 3 wood. I really love it!

Driver: MP-600 9.5 w/ Fujikura E360 Stiff Shaft
4 Wood: F-60 16.5 w/ Exsar FS3 Stiff Shaft
Irons:MP-57 3-PW w/ Dynamic Gold S300 Shafts
Wedges: MP-R Black-Ni 52, 56, & 60
Putter: Studio Select Newport 2Ball: ProV1/ProV1xGrips: Winn Xi7


Posted
Nothing specific - these are driver heads and heads only - I am hoping to get a driver on the cheap. I don't know enough about shafts and the theory yet to pull the trigger.

See now there lies the issue with buying a head and shaft seperately. In order for you to put the proper shaft in, you have to have some launch monitor time because you are going to want to put the best shaft for you in the head you bought.

When buying a club off the shelf, it comes with a shaft that has some monitor time built in from the factory. The shaft in it is matched to perform the way that 90% of the golfs would like for a reasonable cost. This gives you a baseline on what to look for in a re-shaft. So if you go to your local retailor and hit the same club you bought and it performs good for you then you can ask for a shaft that is close to the one that it comes with from the factory. Now if it doesn't, then you are likely to be stuck with paying for some launch monitor time, anywhere from $50-$100, to make sure you get the proper shaft for you. Not sure how much money you think you are going to save on just buying the head and then getting a shaft put in but buying just the head better be cheaper then $100, since the shaft itself is likely to cost you around that.

Note: This thread is 6375 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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