Difficulty of forged blades

[Rugger]

Hey guys, hoping you all can help me get a grasp on this.

I'm just curious, in detail, why forged blades are more difficult to hit than most anything else (right?). I understand that since they're forged that they are softer and hence the ball reacts more to them, but anything else? What makes blades more difficult than cavity? At what handicap would you all recommend someone attempting something like the mp-32 considering a player who doesn't usually have much ball action?

Thanks a bunch.

[Laxplayer201092]

basically, blades put more weight behind the ball so that it increases sidespin, allowing you to work the ball with more ease, but also making your mishits a bit more erratic, if your not a good ball striker, i would not recommend blades, cavity backs put weight farther away from the ball, this reduces the twisting off center hits cause, less workability, more straigh shots. so it really depends on what your looking for.

I think that learning on blades is great, my swing went way downhill when i played nickent hybrid irons, they were just too forgiving, but now i am moving to RAC MB's, and they really keep me in check.

[Stacey_E]

Forged in and of itself is not harder to hit. Forging is just a production method as opposed to casting a club.

A lot of forged designs are however blade styles. The forged market is often targeted at the lower handicap golfers who are more apt to purchase a club based on feel and workability. Therefore many of the forged designs are blades or at least "players irons". Most blades have a smaller head, less offset and a higher center of gravity. This leads to less forgiveness, less slice fighting design and lower shots respectively. The positives to these designs (for those able to hit them) are more feel and feedback, ability to work the ball left and right, and the being able to keep the ball trajectory down with a higher swing speed if the conditions demand it.

But there are many forged cavity backs available. A cavity back will usually have a larger perimeter weighted head that makes it more forgiving, some offset to ensure the face closes and a lower center of gravity to hit the ball higher.

If a beginner wants to score better, I would strongly advise them against blades. But if that same beginner has the desire, work ethic and time to groove their swing on a daily basis, I wouldn't steer them away from blades on the practice range.

[Laxplayer201092]

stacey brings up a good point, one thing to consider is a good set of Game improvement irons (r7, 775, etc) for gaming, and pick up a set of old blades (any company really, i used a set i bought at good will for 10 bucks for a while) The feel of a flushed Blade is enough to make you want to get better!

[Rugger]

Thanks for the responses. Reason I'm asking is a friend of mine is wanting to trade me his mp-32s for a signed adrian peterson jersey I have (corny, I know). I feel like I'm a pretty good ball striker, most of my extra strokes come from within 50 yards. I guess I'm just not sure I'm ready to take the plunge. I mean, I want to, but everyone tell me forged blades "are really hard to hit" yada yada yada.

Any more insight is appreciated.

[EquipmentJunkie]

A signed Adrian Peterson Jersey is worth about $500.00 in mint condition. You can pick up a new set of MP-32's for around 800.00 with used ones in good condition going for about 500.00...have seen some "fair" ones for around 300.00. It could be worth is depending on what shape the irons are in, though keep in mind the irons will only go down in value as you pay them. The jersey...well depends on what Adrian does.... The real question is if these irons suit you, was your friend fitted for them? If he was they likely won't suit you.

[Rugger]

He says they're 1* up. I'm not sure how that would affect me. I'm 5'10-11 and generally play with my hands a bit farther away from my body.

He also said they're "tour only" heads. He has some crazy hook up with some PGA guys so I'm not doubting him, but I'm not sure what implications 'tour only' heads would have.

[Lefty731PM]

A signed Adrian Peterson Jersey is worth about $500.00 in mint condition. You can pick up a new set of MP-32's for around 800.00 with used ones in good condition going for about 500.00...have seen some "fair" ones for around 300.00. .

On ebay you'll have no difficulty getting a new set for well under $500 from a reputable seller.

And, as mentioned the fact that they are forged has no bearing at all on how easy or difficult they are to hit. As for "tour only" heads, this would essentially mean nothing. People are always advertising "tour van" this and that. These items are mass produced and it is a marketing ploy by sellers to make the common sound uncommon. It implies some kind of exclusivity, but the fact that your friend has them means that they aren't tour only as he is not a tour player. The vast majority of irons the pros play are identical to the ones on the shelves of golf and pro shops other than shaft and loft modifications which are not related to the customer being a "tour" player.

[Laxplayer201092]

If he got them off the tour van, They may be worth more, i know that Tourissue stuff onWRX tends to go for more money/gear, so find out if they have any serial numbers, also, what irons are you playing now? how do you strike them?

[The Rambler]

As of recently the only major brand that still makes a cast blade is Ping. So finding a forged blade won't be that difficult. Trust me you'll know the difference between a cast a quality forged iron.

Tour stuff is going to be, like blades, harder to hit but better to work shots with. Drivers and metals are going to have more open faces and less offset then an OTR(off the rack) product. Generally they won't have a s/n but TaylorMade products do. But their s/n's start with certain letters like T and B. There is a difference between Tour Prefered(OTR) and Tour Issue(tour van) Others tour items are going to be marked differently than a OTR product. Such as Titleist's 906f3, Adams 5050, or a Scotty with Circle T's. You will pay a premium for tour products.

Hope this clears and questions up

[reif99]

I mean, I want to, but everyone tell me forged blades "are really hard to hit" yada yada yada.

Only one person can tell if "blades are really hard to hit."

But generally higher handicappers will not like them because mis-hits are more costly with blades than cavity backs. Hard to hit? Go find out. Go to a shop (or better yet, a demo day if one is in your area soon) and go hit some. You probably don't even need a range if you've never hit them before. If you a hit a few and your hands feel like you're hitting them "off the end of the bat," then you're probably mishitting too much to put blades to good use. I'm probably right on the edge of being able to really use them (I'm a seven, but tee to green I'm probably more like a 4), but I like the solid contact on the good shots more than I hate the loss off the mis-hits. I would buy used blades first before going all out for new. I bought my set used on e-bay six years ago for about $250, and after probably 200 rounds (and more practice balls than most people hit) they're just now getting worn out. One last thing about forged, I understand they can bend them easier if you want to get fitted, but someone probably needs to confirm that.

[EquipmentJunkie]

As of recently the only major brand that still makes a cast blade is Ping.

I'm pretty sure all of Cleveland's blade irons (CG1 tour and CG1 black pearl) are still CMM cast, I don't think they are forged....

[Laxplayer201092]

http://www.clevelandgolf.com/faq_irons.html

clevlands are cast..

[EquipmentJunkie]

http://www.clevelandgolf.com/faq_irons.html

Thanks that's what I was looking for....Clevelands website isn't very well organized....in comparison to sme of the other OEM's.

[chrt396]

basically, blades put more weight behind the ball so that it increases sidespin, allowing you to work the ball with more ease, but also making your mishits a bit more erratic, if your not a good ball striker, i would not recommend blades, cavity backs put weight farther away from the ball, this reduces the twisting off center hits cause, less workability, more straigh shots. so it really depends on what your looking for.

Nice looking clubs!! I have the wedges and they are beautiful clubs. I have not gotten to the point to use the ones you are...but they sure are fun to look at!

[Rugger]

I decided against the trade. However, lets continue this discussion.

What would some good, really cheap blades be for me to practice/improve on? Thanks

[PiustheDrGolf]

Try Mizuno forged irons. I don't know about "Cheap Blades". If it is used, $ could go way down. MP32 could be the right one to start. Newer sets like 57 & 60 maybe more forgiving though.

[reif99]

I decided against the trade. However, lets continue this discussion.

Again, go hit some, find a some you like, and buy them used in "good" or "very good" condition on ebay.

You'll pay less than half of retail, and you'll have a set that will last for five or six years easy. Here's an example: ebay listing for MP-32's.