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Posted
Here is an interesting article on bag coverage. This is one guy’s take on the distribution of the clubs in your bag. I thought I'd share the information. I have to say I strongly agree with most if not all of the article. I think it brings home how modern lofts dictate that the savvy golfer consider something other than what was once a standard set of clubs.

I especially like his take on using wider distance and loft gaps at the top of the set. I read this page a year or two ago and now when re-reading it I realize…I've basically rebuilt my bag to his exact recommendations. Now I hit every club in the bag during an 18 hole round, and I'm never found to be lacking the exact club I need.

http://www.kcsportspaper.com/golf0606-2.asp?sort1=golf

Posted
It is an interesting article, it looks like this guy is like a 230 hitter though... my set make-up is 5 degree driver... 15 deg 3-wood (though my signature says 13 deg)... 2-iron thru 9-iron, a 47-degree pitching wedge, a 52-degree gap, and a 56-degree sand wedge, and obviously putter... I've thought of driver, 5-wood maybe and taking the 2-iron out for a 60-degree wedge... but we'll see

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Posted
Interesting article - though it won't be for everyone.

I have just ordered a strong 3 wood and strong 5 wood (14.5 and 17.5) - The 5 wood goes 230 and the 3 wood goes 250. Maybe I could do without the 3 iron though I like it as an alternative off the tee. Wedgewise, I'm comfortable hitting 3/4 shots and 1/2 shots, but maybe a 47, 51, 55, 59 combination (currently have 47,54,58) would better suit my game. However, this would mean removing a club from the bag. I'll see how the new 5 wood goes and if i've room for a 3iron.

Thanks for sharing!

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Posted
I'm no physicist, but it seems to me that the "stronger lofts are to make us think we are hitting the ball further" is flawed.

Perhaps it's partly true, but isn't it also true that, because of the dramatic changes in club design since the 1950s, stronger lofts are required to keep the ball down? That is, the development of the cavity back and perimeter weighting - specifically, massive amounts of weight in the rear bottom of the club in order to increase MOI and to assist beginners with "getting the ball up." Wouldn't balls just balloon with the old lofts on the new clubs?

Posted
It is an interesting article, it looks like this guy is like a 230 hitter though...

That's a valid point. I'm kinda of the opinion that strong hitters, say 270+ with the driver, are more apt to build their sets from the top down. This makes perfect sense to me. At these distances and clubhead speeds you actually have larger distance gaps with 4 degrees than a slow swinger. Thus you probably have more of a need for those longer clubs.

Interesting article - though it won't be for everyone.

I'd bet that at single digit skill level, those 1/2 and 3/4 wedges are just more "doable". I agree this philosophy isn't for everyone. At your skill level I'm sure you hit more greens than the average golfer. Also I bet your course management is above average and it keeps you out of those awkward distances. I wish I could hit a 3/4 shot! Since I can't I had to get a 64* haha!

I'm no physicist, but it seems to me that the "stronger lofts are to make us think we are hitting the ball further" is flawed.

That's a point I never thought of before. I think the strong loft evolution started as a marketing gimmick, but undoubtedly your theory on the lower center of gravity makes a lot of sense. Loft is just a number, much like having a "7" stamped on the bottom of a club is just a number. The loft of a club doesn't tell the whole story. What angle will the club actually launch at? What angle will the golfer deloft it to? What effect will the spin of the ball have on the launch angle?

I suppose this article would be better suited to the mid-high handicapper or anyone with a clubhead speed that doesn't balloon the ball. These guys, myself included, gain no advantage by adding a ton of long game clubs. If anything they hurt themselves by wasting club slots in the bag. If anyone in this catagory didn't want to add more wedges they still might benefit themselves by pulling some of those long clubs anyway. Having long irons and low lofted woods in the bag that they can't hit leaves their options open for those 1 out of 20 hero shots. I think It'd be better to pull some of those clubs and just carry 10 or 12 then having the temptation at your disposal. Just my thoughts. Thanks for the input guys!

Posted
I absolutely agree with your set makeup - a lot of golfers could learn from this set up. A 64 degree wedge would be most useful if you can pull it off. (though be aware of overusing it - something I see a lot in higher handicaps)

WEAPONS:
Taylormade R9 10.5 L Grafalloy Prolaunch Platinum stiff 65g
Taylormade R9 15 NU YS+6 stiff 65g
Taylormade R9 19 NU YS+6 stiff 65g
Taylormade Tour Preferred 4-PW KBS Tour X-Stiff Cleveland CG12 RTG+ DSG 51Cleveland CG12 RTG+ DSG 55Cleveland CG12 RTG+ DSG 59Yes! Tracy II putterTitleist...


Posted
The 64* is a tough call, you can really get yourself in trouble with that wedge. I use 4 just for that reason, so I can hit full wedge from 50 yards out. Now that I have played more, I rarely get into that 40 to 75 yard zone anymore, better course management I guess. I only use the 60* for chipping around fast greens to give me more roll out space. I think the basic premise of the article is sound... jmoc

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  • Posts

    • Thanks for the comments. I fully understand that these changes won't make any big difference compared to getting a flawless swing but looking to give myself the best chance of success at where I am and hopefully lessons will improve the swing along the way. Can these changes make minor improvements to ball striking and misses then that's fine. From what I understood about changing the grips, which is to avoid them slipping in warm and humid conditions, is that it will affect the swing weight since midsize are heavier than regular and so therefore adding weight to the club head would be required to avoid a change of feel in the club compared to before? 
    • I think part of it is there hasn't been enough conclusive studies specific to golf regarding block studies. Maybe the full swing, you can't study it because it is too complicated and to some degree it will fall into variable or random.  
    • Going one step stiffer in the golf shaft, of the same make and model will have minor impact on the launch conditions. It can matter, it is a way to dial in some launch conditions if you are a few hundred RPM off or the angle isn't there. Same with moving weights around. A clubhead weights 200-220 grams. You are shifting a fraction of that to move the CG slightly. It can matter, again its more about fine tuning. As for grip size, this is more personal preference. Grip size doesn't have any impact on the swing out of personal preference.  You are going to spend hundreds of dollars for fine tuning. Which if you want, go for it. I am not sure what your level of play is, or what your goals in golf are.  In the end, the golf swing matters more than the equipment. If you want to go to that level of detail, go find a good golf club fitter. ChatGPT is going to surface scan reddit, golfwrx, and other popular websites for the answers. Basically, it is all opinionated gibberish at this point.   
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    • Well the first advice I would give is to look at your swing. If you are swing out to in, it may be difficult to fix your misses with club adjustments. They would only be a bandaid. I use midsize grips because I have long fingers and I feel I have more control with them. I also have tinkered with shaft length and swing weight. But I know when I miss it’s because my swing was off.
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