Help reshafting a Titleist 983E driver?

[misty_mountainhop]

Hi All, I have a reshafting question re. a Titleist 983E driver.

I have the above driver with a slightly beaten up YS6 (stiff) shaft in it. I love the combination but the shaft is definitely on it's way out so I'd like to update/upgrade it if I can.

Had a conversation with a pro of (allegedly) 40 years experience who basically said "Can't be done. Sorry". His reasoning was that (almost) no-one makes thru-bore heads now and therefore he couldn't get a shaft which would have the requisite tip to fit the bore on the 983E head.

Can anyone tell me if this is true?? I'd hate to lose my 983E and I simply don't believe him.

I'd like to go with Graphite Design's new YS-Q75 (stiff) or maybe Grafalloy's Axis (stiff). I know the YS-Q comes with a 4" tip so would this be long enough to fit the 983E head and still play true-to-flex or would it play stiffer tipped?
The Axis shaft also says it's a 4" tip and even suggests a no tip trim setup on a thru-bore driver head.

Can anyone clear this up for me?

[Magnus]

It is a bit more difficult to re-shaft bore-throughs, but it is done all the time. He just doesn't want to do it. Go somewhere else.

And by "noone" does he mean Callaway and Titleist (until the 909's)????

[M2R]

I re-shafted a 905T and I'm sure this will make some purist cringe but basically I did it by converting the thru bore to a blind bore hosel design.

I went to the hardware store and bought 5/16" and 11/32" drill bits. I then marked them for 1.25" bottom of bore to groundline depth with a permanent marker. I did the first pass with the 5/16" bit then cleaned out the bore with acetone on a rag that was wrapped tight around a screwdriver. The acetone loosened up the epoxy and the thin pieces of shaft left sort of flaked off with a little work. I then used the 11/32" bit to ream out a small amount of aluminum. I'm not sure I wouldn't skip this step next time but I was concerned that some traces of shaft would still be stuck to the bore at the time though.

I've never had any trouble with this driver/shaft and the process was pretty simple. Also I did use glass beads in the epoxy mix to help center the shaft in the slightly oversize bore. I didn't have anything invested in this experiment though as my buddy gave me the head on an already broken shaft and said do whatever you can.

FWIW I put in a UST V2 75 (also 4" PTS) and it looked to me like trying to do the thru bore install would use up all the parallel tip and even at that require a very short ferrule to fit ... but I'm a basement experimenter not a pro.

[firstcut]

Have you contacted Titleist about re-shafting it for you? I know Callaway will re-shaft here in the U.S.

[keel]

I did the same thing MDR did. I didn't have a shaft extractor at the time so I hacksawed the shaft right at the hosel, then drilled out the hosel to the propper depth.When I glued the shaft on I used plenty of shafting beads. I hit some of my longest drives with the Titleist 983E

[misty_mountainhop]

Does anybody know what that "standard" depth bores are on a standard and blind bore for a driver? Are there any standard depths or does it vary with manufacturer?

[keel]

I drilled out 1 1/2 inch for a standard bore

[keel]

250328638191 on e-bay 983K with UST V2 stiff shaft $30.00