building a steel shafted driver have a few questions

[clearwaterms]

I am getting ready to build a steel shafted driver and need some assistance to pick the right shaft. I am going to build it with either an 11 or a 12 degree head. im looking for something that is very accurate. im thinking either the DG, the TT XL or the Apollo Ballistick. One is a low launch, one is a mid launch, the other is a mid-high launch.

I typically fight a bad slice with my current driver. a 10 degree head with an offset hosel that is equipped with a UST Pro Gold 65 shaft. So I am looking for something that will put the ball in play, most of the courses I play are shorter with tight fairways.

THoughts? suggestions? opinions?

[Sherlockian]

When I had my last driver built, I used a Callaway Great Big Bertha II 415cc 9* and had it fitted with a 43.5" TT Dynalite. This worked out well, and the Dynalite helped with the weight difference between the graphite to steel change. The high kick of the Dynalite and the 9*head gave me a mid launch and trajectory with plenty of roll.

[clearwaterms]

When I had my last driver built, I used a Callaway Great Big Bertha II 415cc 9* and had it fitted with a 43.5" TT Dynalite. This worked out well, and the Dynalite helped with the weight difference between the graphite to steel change. The high kick of the Dynalite and the 9*head gave me a mid launch and trajectory with plenty of roll.

So I am looking at a higher loft club head. I am looking for a little more spin to help combat the slice that I fight. I would rather lose a little bit of distance and play the fairway. The courses I play the most often have tight fairways but are shorter. I have dynalite shafts in my clubs now but have had trouble finding a dynalite 335 tip shaft. The TTLite XL, Apollo Ballistic and DG are all readily available from the website that I intend on ordering from.

[Big_M]

steel shafted driver... why? Last steel shafted driver I saw was the one I threw away 5 years ago. They should remain a thing of the past as there is no advantage to such. Also, added spin will make the ball slice more, not less.

If you want more accuracy shorten the shaft and get a heavier one.

Best way to beat a slice... fix your swing, don't swing outside to in, and square the clubface at impact.

-just my 2 cents

[clearwaterms]

steel shafted driver... why?

I want to try a steel shaft to see if the extra weight will help me slow down my swing a little. I have a good swing plane, but do have trouble closing my hands at impact. I was under the impression that the higher loft would introduce additional backspin which would counteract the side spin i get as a result of not closing my hands at impact. If this is wrong, please educate me.

[Big_M]

yes, backspin will keep the ball straight, sidespin is the enemy (unless intended). However, too much backspin and you'll sacrafice distance. Why not just fix your swing, instead of trying to "equipment" your way around a slice.

Finding properly fitted equipment is one thing, playig a steel shafted short driver with bad fitting charectoristics just to reduce a slice doesn't make much sense to me.

[clearwaterms]

yes, backspin will keep the ball straight, sidespin is the enemy (unless intended). However, too much backspin and you'll sacrafice distance. Why not just fix your swing, instead of trying to "equipment" your way around a slice.

I am working with my golf instructor to fixing my swing, and do believe that you can not buy a game with equipment. However, at $20 for a closeout driver head, and another $10 for a steel shaft, a buck and change for a grip. THis is more of a test then it is an equipment change. I am not committing to a steel shafted driver, just figuring i would try something different. If the driver ends up playing well, then great. If not, Im out less then $50 including shipping.

[Big_M]

I am working with my golf instructor to fixing my swing, and do believe that you can not buy a game with equipment. However, at $20 for a closeout driver head, and another $10 for a steel shaft, a buck and change for a grip. THis is more of a test then it is an equipment change. I am not committing to a steel shafted driver, just figuring i would try something different. If the driver ends up playing well, then great. If not, Im out less then $50 including shipping.

fair enough... good luck and let us know what happens.