Driver Debacle

[Asad]

I recently started searching for a new driver, After hammering the Callaway Ft-i out of shape... I made a trip down to my local driving range to rent the Taylor Made R9 Supertri and the Callaway Ft-iz. After hitting both for dozens of balls... I realized both are good though both have there pro's and con's.

TaylorMade R9 Supertri: Really... had to put an effort in to getting it right, though the distance was same as my old Ft-i. But I had alot more ball control and could get it where I wanted the ball to go.

Callway Ft-iz: Super easy to hit 9/10 times, got the distance which blew my socks off, outstanding! though I wasn't able to get the control where I wanted the ball to go... similar to my old Ft-i.

Soo wasn't sold on either one of the drivers... until I jumped on the Bay and started searching for what it may cost, used. running through the Taylor Made R9's I would be paying north of $250+. OK. Started looking at the Callaway Ft-iz found one from a very high rated seller asking $160 and the rest were in the $250+ range, same as the TaylorMade... Soo a no brainier, got the Callaway Ft-iz.

Close to a week later... Ding Dong, package at my door which I was expecting a lot sooner, paid a premium to have it sooner as I had the 4th off and was planning on going hitting. Open it up and guess what! It's a.... TaylorMade R9 Supertri. OK maybe God wanted me to have the Taylor Made? Anyways I contact the seller and knowing he sells many drivers and asked him I got the Taylor Made and had ordered a Callaway. He responds instantly and states, there has been a mix-up and the guy who order that has my Callaway. OK we all make mistakes... He emails me with these options.

Option#1 to keep the TaylorMade with the stiff shaft which I will have to get re-shafted with regular. for what I had paid.

Option#2 to send the TaylorMade to the guy who has my Callaway and he will send me my Callaway and the seller will refund me partially $60 for his mistake.

What would you do?

[motteler621]

if its a brand new R9 thats never been hit take it to a local golf shop and ask them if you can just exchange it for one with a regular shaft straight up.

[mdbuschsr]

I think I would ask for option 2b. Send the club back to the seller, and have him send the correct club, along with the $60 partial refund. I don't know that I would want to trust another buyer to correctly package my driver and ship it to me.

[MSU Fishing]

Might try Academy. Not sure if they sell them, but if they do they have a no questions asked return policy and would exchange it for a regular shaft no problem. If you don't want to do that I would be getting my $60 dollars back.

[Blades4me]

Another way to go about it would have been to get on a launch monitor and see what type of shaft and driver loft work best for your swing. Then you can build your own, which isn't difficult at all and fun, or get a OEM driver with the correct shaft & loft for your swing. Also, if you were hitting the driver into a net at the store I wouldn't believe the read out on distance, trajectory or type of shot, (fade, straight, draw). That stuff is best left to the range. However the launch angle, club head speed and ball rpm that come off of the launch monitor are very meaningful numbers.

The only difference in dirver heads is capped face vs welded face and square vs traditional head. A capped face will be a little more forgiving cuz it has a bigger sweet spot than a welded face and a square head is more stable than a traditional head. After that its pretty much all the same. COR can't exceed .83 and size can't be bigger than 460 cc's. The biggest difference in drivers is the shaft. Tom Wishom's book "In Search of the Perfect Club" goes over some of this. His other book, "In Search of the Perfect Driver" is also pretty enlightening.