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Posted

I'm getting back into golf after nearly 15 years of not playing regularly.  I have a set of Cleveland TA5's that I play reasonably well, but I remember the feel of the forged irons I used with when I started in the '70's and would like to have another set.  I'm 71, retired, and enjoy projects so I'm thinking of buying a set of older, forged irons and re-shafting and re-gripping them.

What are your thoughts on the differences, if any, between the forged irons manufactured during the past 15 years vs. the pre-2000 forged irons?  I played a set of The Standards by Palmer before I bought the Cleveland's, and I can find another set for my project, but would consider newer irons if there is a reason (a local shop has a set well used Mizuno MP-33's for $75)  Whatever I choose to re-work will be blades not cavity backs or whatever the correct term is.

A little more information:  I have re-shafted and re-gripped clubs, I understand this is a looser money-wise, but less expensive than my last hobby which was target shooting, and I enjoy hitting balls at the range so a set of blades will make me work harder for a good shot which could result in an improved swing with whatever clubs I use,

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Posted

I'm getting back into golf after nearly 15 years of not playing regularly.  I have a set of Cleveland TA5's that I play reasonably well, but I remember the feel of the forged irons I used with when I started in the '70's and would like to have another set.  I'm 71, retired, and enjoy projects so I'm thinking of buying a set of older, forged irons and re-shafting and re-gripping them.

What are your thoughts on the differences, if any, between the forged irons manufactured during the past 15 years vs. the pre-2000 forged irons?  I played a set of The Standards by Palmer before I bought the Cleveland's, and I can find another set for my project, but would consider newer irons if there is a reason (a local shop has a set well used Mizuno MP-33's for $75)  Whatever I choose to re-work will be blades not cavity backs or whatever the correct term is.

A little more information:  I have re-shafted and re-gripped clubs, I understand this is a looser money-wise, but less expensive than my last hobby which was target shooting, and I enjoy hitting balls at the range so a set of blades will make me work harder for a good shot which could result in an improved swing with whatever clubs I use,

Welcome to the site and back to the game! I'll leave the clubmaking advice to some folks who know more about that, but I want to encourage you to avoid the myth that hitting tougher to hit clubs is a path to swing improvement. Generally speaking, it's a recipe for frustration and not reaching your potential. This sounds like a cool project regardless of that, but if you want to improve, you're better off with some more forgiving clubs. Blades from a few decades ago are pretty high on the list of "tough clubs to hit"

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Posted
Blades from a few decades ago are pretty high on the list of "tough clubs to hit"

dkolo, thank you for the courtesy of a reply and for the comments on the issue of hitting the older forged irons.  I agree they are more difficult to hit well, but there is the challenge for me.  I am not as concerned now with my scores as I was years ago.  It's more about doing what I want to and what I want to do it with.... :-) .  A few pars in a round playing with some old forged irons would be as satisfying to me as a couple birdies with the GI clubs.

I'm just not familiar with the post 2000 forged irons and am not certain how they would "feel" compared to the earlier irons.


Posted

Iv'e hit some Wilson staff 1970's blades and some older ones and they don't feel as good as today's offerings at all. Ttliest has made some awful ones in the last 15 years the Z forged comes to mind it felt harsh and terrible but was just 7 years ago maybe less. Look into the process of forging how it's done and the metal used it's kinda interesting. You will find quality design doesn't have an age besides the grooves of course, but you said your refurbishing them right? Most forgings are done with 1025 carbon steel varieties some are softer and some are harder it's preference. Find a quality set and go for it here is a few recommendations the 670 is newer then the Maxfli but both are outstanding designs.


Posted

Thank you for your observations and advice, Mike. Both of those models look like good candidates if this latest development doesn't work out.

I was talking to an old golfing friend recently about my "project" and he has just given me a set (4-PW) of Wilson Staff Gooseneck irons.  Based on the used clubs I see on Ebay, I would rate them between good and very good condition.  The shafts are labeled Dyna-Step, 02A 530056, and have a red band below the first step.  He doesn't remember what flex they are so I've been looking on the internet for information.  My best guess is that they are stiff, but I'm still trying to confirm that.  I did hit the six iron today before the rain set in and it felt really nice.  Only getting about 145-150 yards with it, but that is more than enough distance for the local courses I play.  I'll try them next time I play a round and see what happens; should be very interesting... :roll: .


Note: This thread is 3770 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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