The Tin Man

460cc gives me more places to miss the sweet spot. Water melon on a stick. I'm not buying!

I'm voting real - but I'm comparing it to the JPX 800 Pros - different medallion. If fake somebody went through a LOT of trouble, like the UPC sticker. If those are ball marks on the face and it's the 6 iron that would make them store demos.

All I get is Error 404?

There's a lot of talking but little else. I was going to buy a full set but held off because of the lack of REAL reviews! Anyway, the link doesn't work, and the discussion is locked.

A split set makes a lot of sense with the JPX 800 Pro's. It looks like the low and scoring irons were designed by two separate groups. 9, G, and P clubs are too GI and out of balance with the rest of the set. If you need the forgiveness of the wedges your going to find the low irons to be hell. If you can play the low irons you don't need a clunky wedge. I split with MP-67's.

The local Rodger Dunn usually has 30-50 used Scotty's. Some are clean and as low as $99.00 The ones with the non-removable removable weights are around $180-200 used. (You can't buy replacement weights.) Trade in value: $45-65 Life of a Scotty: Stage 1: Best Putter on the Planet! Stage 2: Maybe my putting will improve if a cut it down? Stage 3. Maybe a Super Jumbo grip will help? Stage 4: Used Rack $99. Stage 5: Best $99 Putter on the Planet.

How old are you? Past a certain point it's easier to get accurate then faster.

Once the auction has only 12 hrs to go the procedure to retract a bid gets more difficult. http://pages.ebay.com/help/buy/bid-retract.html

Bags are pretty much a write off. I buy them from Play It Again Sports dirt cheap and give the old ones to Goodwill.

E-bay does have a way that you can retract a bid due to a typing error. If the guys smart he will take your $5000 - buy a legitimate set and send that to you.

My re-shaft my wedges to match my irons. I like graphite and there's not much available other the SCOR (I wish somebody would review these), and game improvement CB's.

I would keep both and play a split set. The Mizzys for the short irons and X-20 for the longs. (I'm doing that with MP-67's and JPX's)

Used Forged Irons - you need to buy them from golfers who can't hit the same spot twice, or better yet don't even play. Those damn Pro's smash in dime sized spots on the face. If duffers stop buying blades the used market would be nothing but scrap iron.

A man who worked with a pickle slicer kept fighting the urge to slip his fingers into it. "The outcome can't be good." he said, as he gave into temptation and did it. He arrived home from work early. "Why are you home so early dear" asked his wife. He replied. "I put my fingers in the pickle slicer and now I'm fired!" After checking him and finding him intact, his wife asked what happened to the pickle slicer? "She got fired too!" He cried. This thread is the pickle slicer:

The only way to get good and cheap is to buy used . $400 buys a lot better used clubs then new.

You really need to hit and compare them to know. Keep in mind that shafts can make a huge difference. I'm not familiar with Taylor's but I'm sure they offer the same choices as below. Mizuno JPX 800 is cast and similar to the forged JPX800 Pro. Both are cavity backs. Compare them with each other and a MIzuno MP series muscle back Titlist: AP'1 is cast and AP'2 is forged. Both are cavity backs. Not as similar to each other as the JPX's but close enough. Compare with each other and a Titlist muscle back. I prefer forged due to their adjust ability over cast. We already argued feel to death. As I stated in the beginning there's no law against mixing sets.

I'm finding a smaller head easier to hit. What say you?

I don't like, but what say you? So I started a poll.

Start Here http://www.hickorygolf.com/ .

If you can't hit a 8 iron CB then forget this discussion. Lets put it this way - A low handicap finds the sweet spot - that's given. A high handicap does not mean they can't find the sweet spot. Distance = Handicap (You need to move the ball a certain distance to have a single digit.) The Thief of Time takes everything........distance first. There's a glaring weakness in mine and my playing partners games - age and disease. Time to go to work........

1. Older players loose there distance long before short game accuracy. 2. Some people are more coordinated then others. (Has nothing to do with golf). 3. Jugulars, Dart Players, Baseball Players. Tennis Players etc. start with an advantage. 4. With a split set one needs not worry about fining the tiny sweet spot on an blade 3 iron.

Why not both? Forged Cavity for long irons and blades for scoring irons. Buy the full set of forged CB's so you have easy clubs to fall back on, and a couple of muscle backs. Going Forged allows the lofts to be tweaked to blend the sets. Cast clubs don't bend as well. (Some don't bend at all.) It's easier if you stick with one brand. I was playing forged Hogan Directors/Radials with cast CB Titlist AP1's - too much transition. I found myself using the blade when the CB would have been a smarter choice. (It now felt huge and clunky) Now I have switched to forged Mizuno CB and Muscles for an easier blend - and not had a chance to play with them. Buying used is the smartest choice since you end up with 2 sets. Match shafts the best you can. This was an eye opener: Newer muscle backs are more forgiving then 25 year old clubs. PS: Handicap has nothing to do with it. The ability to find the sweet spot is all important. (If you can't don't buy Muscle Backs)

Same with me.

LOL!

In what way? Swing Weight? Flex? Frequency? If they should be avoided I want to know.