mtrevors

I use mine for long 2nd shots from the rough, trouble spots from the fairway (divots or severly uneven lies), when I want to land it soft (minimize roll), or long chips from greenside.

actually, I think they usually recommend Black if you tend to slice the ball.

actually Rich, I think having CB gives you less of a distance gap on mishits... I know that unless I totally "miss" a shot I have a 10 yard distance between solid and mishit shots... But, however, when I tried the X-Forged irons (which I absolutely LOVE and would've like to buy) that distance increased to 20 yards. So, that's why I ended up buying the X-20 tours... Same look as the X-Forged, but more forgiving. Did I mention how much I love my X-20 Tours?

Rich, so let's break down your game... Since you don't list your bag contents in your signature I have to make some assumptions. I'm going to assume "driving it great" means you hit the fairway more often than not about 240 - 260 yards. I'm also going to assume that an average par 4 on your course is about 400 yards (seems long but let's go with it). So, after your tee shot you have 140 - 160 to the green, but you still have 30 or 40 yard chips after your approach shots... Sure sounds like you duffed an approach shot, or you aren't familiar with your club distances... Either/or you shouldn't be using blades. I can tell you something, if I have a 140 - 160 yard shot to the green I'm missing the green, by at most 10 yards. And that's the point... approach shots are with your forged irons, which is the hole (yes it's on purpose )point of this argument, you can't hit the clubs you use the most, other than your putter, consistently. Also, do you use a "tour caliber" driver, a neutral driver, or a draw driver? I'm asking because typically people who use forged blades prefer the open face of a tour caliber driver, just wondering if that's what you use as well.

you do realize that when they determine par they count on 2 putts per hole... So you're basically saying since 6 shots on your round are above and beyond what is typical for a scratch golfer that you have a bad short game??? I still find it almost impossible to believe that you can hit a 3i (about 19degrees of loft) consistently down the middle of the fairway 225 yards, but you can't hit a 46deg (or higher) 100 yards to a rather large landing zone. I know I started out with a set of knock-off blades from GolfSmith and finally got tired of the inconsistency so I switched to the Nike Slingshot OSS for a year... And, instead of going right back to blades (wanted X-Forged in the worst way) I took the responsible next step and bought a set of X-20 Tour irons. Although they're considered player irons they still have some sort of forgiveness... Who knows, maybe in '09 I'll be ready for forged blades.

I see your point about the blades... but you're missing one HUGE problem with your argument... There are A LOT more people playing golf these days because you now don't have to be a supreme ball striker to enjoy the game. The game improvment market is geared at helping people stick with the game, simply because 90% of golfers can't hit a blade consistently enough to develop any sort of game. And if you can't hit your irons consistently how the hell can you expect to manage your game. We're just trying to help you enjoy your new hobby... If you're a very good athlete then maybe you won't have any trouble hitting those blades. However, if you're an average joe, like the rest of us on here, perhaps you should settle for a set of game improvment irons and spend the extra money you would've spent to get those pricey blades and get some lessons.

By you using the argument that you might be poor with the wedge... but you're ready for forged irons... Come on... I would've bought the crappy putter argument (to an extent) , but if you can't hit a wedge, you definitely can't hit a forged 4-7 iron. If you have lots of money to spend maybe you should invest in some lessons.

Since I'm a lefty, and they don't make the forged for lefties, I tried CCi forged. They were very decent; can only imagine the Forged are that much better. Pardon me for asking though, if you're a 25 handicap do you think it's wise to jump to blades?

I ended up getting a 17deg Rescue TP and a 14.5deg Burner Fairway TP with the understanding that the 3 wood will be used off the tee on those dog leg par 4's and when I happen to hit the middle of the fairway on a long, flat par 5... Essentially I'll use the 3-wood in situations where I give myself a high probability of success. The 17deg hybrid only gives up 10 - 15 yards from the 3-wood and is obviously easier to hit... I really appreciate all the input.

I just recently picked up the 17deg Rescue TP and a 14.5deg Burner Fairway TP. Both are great clubs. I hear good things about the 585h but around these parts (Pittsburgh West) the stores tend to stock up on TM, not so much Titleist. A couple of stores didn't have a single 585h in stock, and these were big chains....

I hit my 19 about 205-220 and my 22 about 185-200

What baffles me is that they make a 9-deg driver with a regular graphite shaft. Simply because in order to use a 9deg lofted driver you typically have to have a 100mph + club head speed (driver). But, with that kind of speed you'd think, at a minimum, you'd use Stiff graphite, if not extra stiff. I myself top out at 95 (balls to the wall) and I use stiff graphite. But honestly, if you're a newbie to the game, your biggest challenge is going to be hitting it straight

I was in the exact same situation as you. I went to www.golfclubdemo.com and tested out sets of CCI-Forged, X-Forge, and r7 TP. I ended up going with the X-20 Tour irons because I absolutely loved the X-Forge but needed a little extra forgiveness which the X-20 Tours provide.

I can't say enough good things about my Rossa Corzina putter... I highly recommend it

I wouldn't even consider getting blades/forged irons until you have a single digit handicap. In order to use blades you have to make consistent contact with the sweet spot. I've been checking out the "player irons" as of late; even gone so far as demoing a couple sets on the course. I feel strongly that if you jump into blades too early you'll get worse before you get better; perhaps to the point of quitting the sport all together.

Wow, you guys are brutes ... I use my SW from 70 - 80, LW from 55 - 70 or over bunkers to the green. I never hit the SW/LW with more than a 3/4 swing. But, if there's enough wind to make me doubt club selection I take the yardage, multiply by 2, subtract ten yards and do a half swing with the appropriate club... seems to work pretty well

HELP!.... This is an agonizing decision, I'm buying my first set of "players clubs" and I just can't make up my mind. Can anybody speak from experience on their results with either set of irons?

You're going to be hard pressed in getting a set of game improvement irons without an offset. You may want to try Golfsmith's Snake-Eyes series. I had a set back when I started, they did the job...

If you were in the market for a 3-wood would you forego the 3-wood for a 1-hybrid? I vote 1 hybrid.. why... because i think hybrids are easier to hit (shorter shaft) Thoughts?

You get fitted using a launch monitor I ended up with a TM Burner 10.5 w/ a Grafalloy ProLaunch Blue 65g stiff shaft. Seems to have worked... I'm hitting my drives between 230-270 whereas before, with my stock TM R5XL, I was topping out around 230. I've used my new TM at the driving range and about 10 rounds of golf so I think I'm over the "placebo effect". But honestly, go to your local retailer and have them fit you for a driver. I don't think brand matters that much, go with what gives you confidence for brand name. You're really just interested in the specs (loft, launch angle, ball speed, spin rate....). Oh that's another thing picking the right ball can help too. Typically if you end up buying the driver they give you the fitting session for free.. .Otherwise it will cost you about $30.

I carry 4 46/52/56/60

gotta go with steel for the irons... If you're looking for reduced weight in steel shafts try something like a TT Tx-90. My dad just ordered a set of X-20s with the TX-90 shafts because he was concerned about control with graphite.

Yes, the SkyCaddie does allow you to map your own courses. It'll let you upload it to the website and make it available to other golfers.

I've played TaylorMade drivers since I bought a Bubble shafted Burner back in '01. Moved to an R5XL a couple years ago, then last month to a new Burner w/ a Grafalloy ProLaunch Blue 45" shaft.

I bought a Skycaddie SG-2 back in August... All the courses I play are available for download and I have absolutely no complaints.