rudygu

I think he just wants a change of pace. I use a couple of different putters just because one feels more right on any given day. It's not that unusual, even on Tour. Using the same one for 12-13 years like Tiger has done is far more unusual. He kept his putter and routine constant for a long time because it worked. Now that it's not working, it only makes sense to mix it up.

More goes into it than just loft. Maybe you just made better contact with your PW? The Tour Burners seem a bit more forgiving than the Nike Split Cavities...maybe your shafts just fit you better, etc.

I'm a big fan of this driver. I switched from the Mizuno Mp-600 in an effort to lower my launch and spin. I don't have any launch monitor data for you, but it is easily the most forgiving driver I've ever owned. I hit drives all over the face my last round - heel, toe, dead center - my gps yardages ranged from 240-270 yards. The 240 was horribly struck - thin and off the heel - but still managed to get down a respectable distance and find the fairway. The 270 was struck almost perfectly. All the rest were between 255 and 265 and on those impact varied from about 1 ball width toward the heel to about 1 ball width toward the toe. As for launch and spin, all I can say is that it definitely spins less than than the MP-600 and launches lower. With my 9.5 it almost rolls out more than I'd like. I've been thinking of getting a slightly spinnier shaft to see if I can increase carry and reduce roll. Launch with my shaft is a solid medium, where my MP-600 was medium-high to high. I really like it's ball flight...I'm yet to balloon a shot and that used to be a pretty big problem for me. Really solid in the wind as well.

Unless there is enough left to grab with some pliers. Just be careful not to drill too deep and make sure you get all the little bits out. If you don't, it will rattle and drive you insane. The PDF file linked above lists it at .335. Awesome link, btw. You could do that, but it will play a little soft in the tip and cause a bit higher launch and spin. The website of the manufacturer of your new shaft should have tip trimming instructions that tell you how much of the tip to cut off to achieve the recommended tip stiffness for each club. Then cut the butt end for final length. Just for looks, but they are easy to install and dirt cheap. I understand. Had to do this with a Ping G2 3W of mine my wife's little cousin broke a couple years ago. If you are mechanically inclined at all, most basic club repair isn't too difficult. Just read all the guides on the Golfsmith clubmaker's site. They have very good step-by-step instructions and videos.

That sounds like an awesome trip...have fun man! I envy you.

Good luck with that. The closest things I've seen are the sets sold as 4-GW. Usually the 4 is 21 degrees and the GW is 50. Most of those sets are slanted toward "game improvement", though, so I doubt you'd want to go there from the MP-57's. Scratch's irons are all 48 degree PW stock. That's the weakest I've seen lately. Your best bet is probably a variation on what you've already done. Order some custom irons through the 9 with lofts a cpl degrees weak and a separate 50 degree PW.

Never said they wouldn't. Am I being that unclear? I never compared the two offenses. I didn't get on this forum and talk about how "passionate" I am about speeding. I didn't call anyone that thinks it's wrong names and tell them to live a little. You've just decided to assign actions to me so that you can label me a hypocrite. Have I sped? yep. Do I advocate it? no, it's a bad idea. Look at my posts again, read them for what I said instead of whatever it is you think I said. I think it's stupid to get on an internet forum and tell other posters they can't respond to your post with something you don't like to hear. I think trespassing is wrong. That's it, all I've said. I'm getting tired of repeating myself, but I don't like my words being twisted. He was trolling. He obviously knew he would get a reaction (hence the disclaimer in his first post) and has proceeded to post inflammatory statements. I'm not making that up. I didn't "tell iacas to kill the thread". He said he almost did and I said I hoped he changed his mind. I still wish he had. Why does it have to be fair? Not much else in life is. If the OP wants to play those courses that badly, then he should work to accomplish it the right way. Or sneak on. He is free to do that at his leisure - until he gets caught and faces the punishment. I don't think it's the right thing to do, but his actions are not my responsibility. I'm done. Goodbye.

That is a strong 6 iron...basically a 5. Do they launch the ball much lower than an average lofted club of the same number? Could be they lowered the loft that much to compensate for a really low CG to normalize the launch angle. They are advertised as being long, though, so I doubt that explains it all.

Yeah, without knowing what type of stainless steel they are made from I wouldn't base too much on the magnet test. I would contact Callaway and ask them. They used to have a pretty nice registration tool on their website that would at least tell you if the serial # on the club was valid.

Never said that. I disagree. I could be felon and still point out to the OP that trespassing is wrong. I'm not, but that's beside the point. If I felt like some crime was ok to commit, came on to a message board to talk about it and share stories glamorizing it, it would be pointless to tell other members of that board to stay silent if they disagreed with me. Same as it was for the OP in this thread Woohoo!

brgolf: Never said I wasn't a criminal, though I'm not. I've had plenty of traffic tickets and paid them all. Never once did it occur to me to tell the police officer that I should be allowed to drive however I wanted because I was passionate about it. All I've ever said in this thread is that yes, trespassing on a golf course is wrong - even if you are really passionate about playing that course and can't play it any other way. I've also pointed out that telling people on the internet not to respond to your post if they don't share your views is pointless. I think it's obvious at this point that the OP is trolling and has run out of any remotely original material. IMO this thread has run it's course. Hopefully iacas will change his mind and put it out of it's misery.

Jackson and Gilbert are both certifiable.

No thanks. I'm doing better than I deserve in that respect and I actually know how to appreciate what I've got. Good to know that I have the permission of a miscreant on the internet, though.

Where does it end? I'd love to get a boat, but can't afford one right now. Should I go to a marina and take someone else's out for a day at the lake because I really, really want to? How about a house - mine is getting to be a bit small now that I have a kid. Should I sneak into a new larger one that hasn't been sold yet?

People aren't going off on their own merry way - they are just disagreeing with the premise of the OP. The very fact that he put that disclaimer in meant he fully expected some backlash. Too bad you can't go on to a public internet forum and tell people who disagree with you they aren't allowed to post, huh?

Titleist x86 - royal blue. The clubs are listed in my signature. With headcovers on my woods and hybrids: Without headcovers: View of the bag:

Until last week I played 3-pw, then a 52 and 56. I just bought new irons with a 4h, 5-pw. So, i figured I'd throw a low bounce 60 degree in the bag to help out when I leave myself short-sided (happens a lot - I don't hit many greens, but I'm usually close). If I was still using a set of irons 3-pw, I'd have gone pw, 52, 58.

Nice irons. The main differences between them and a true blade would be a bit more forgiveness on mishits off the toe and a bit higher launch for a given loft (this is the reason why the lofts are a degree or two stronger than most blades). There is probably a bit less feedback on mishit shots and I have read that blades are more accurate on purely struck shots. The truth is that the differences between players irons and blades are a lot more subtle than the club manufacturers and magazines would have you think. The differences between "game improvement irons" and players irons are also pretty subtle. The offset game improvement irons will offer a bit more forgiveness on mishits and a good bit higher launch. Again, the magazines and manufacturers exaggerate the differences, but they are there. In my experience, if you don't have any trouble getting the ball in the air, the differences between game improvement and players is negligible. In fact, if you already launch it high, the game improvement clubs may hurt more than they help. Really, it's more important to find a head and shaft combo that gives you the characteristics you're looking for. A blade with an extra stiff, high kick shaft will give you a low launch and more feedback on mishits. But you'll get punished more for a bad swing. A super game improvement head with a whippy, low kick point shaft will launch it high, give less feedback, and punish you less on a mishit. It's just a matter of finding what works best for you and your swing.

I know what you mean. My new irons just came in yesterday. I played with them in 101 degree heat with half my mouth numb fresh from the dentist. My wife checked them out and pretended to be interested for my sake...I love that woman.

yep, i read where you said this: Sorry if I killed the joy of your thread with my post. Here is a random list of some irons I like that are targeted at the handicaps you listed: 1. Adams A4 2. Titleist 710 AP1 3. Callaway X-22 Tour 4. Titleist 710 AP2

I don't think I could recommend irons based solely on handicap - for me personal preference and ball flight are far more important. Struggle getting the ball in the air? Try some game improvement clubs with a low center of gravity. Hate the way that offset and a thick top line looks at address? Find something that suits your eye or you will be looking for a reason to dump them before you know it. I, for one, have never struggled getting the ball airborne. From the time I could barely break 130 I hit the ball sky high. I tried hitting some of the more popular super game improvement irons of the time - Big Bertha '04, etc. - they just exacerbated the problem. The best advice I can offer would be to not settle. Buy clubs that complement your game and suit your eye, not whatever a salesman or some people on the internet tell you is best for a particular handicap.

http://www.oobgolf.com/content/the+w..._Epiphany.html I'm not sure if this is the link you are talking about, but it backs up what you are saying. The gist of the article is that while doing some Iron Byron tests the author found that cavity backs only held a real advantage on mishits off the toe. His data is from a while back, though. With today's cavity back tech, I'd guess that the dead center patterns would be a bit closer now, with the edge still going to blades.

I saw that too. Paula Creamer said on twitter that they were stimping at 13.9. I don't think I've ever seen a LPGA event with greens anywhere close to that fast.

I took Nobilo to mean that Wi had problems getting stuck on the right side and adopted S&T; to help fix it. He went on to say that Wi had always tried for a mote centered swing and so S&T; was a goodmodel for him. He also said everyone should find instruction that complemented their natural tendencies. He pointed out that some instructors called it a reverse pivot (no shock there) but that Wi got through the ball really well. He even mentioned how the model is based a lot off of TGM principles. Honestly, I thought it was one of the more positive S&T; commentaries I've heard on tv - a 180 degree difference from Chamblee and Faldo.

http://www.cameroncollector.com/