JOSEPHLB

"Grinds" have nothing to do with the spin of a wedge shot. Grinds are more for how the wedge sets up

Yep.. Just on Thursday evening hand intentions of walking into Dick's Sporting Goods to see what GPS's they had ..and couldn't help to notice they had the Nike 5900 for $199, with the free fairway wood deal going on.. So.. GPS was not even a second thought after I walked out with a Nike Sumo2 driver and FW wood :P

The new FST steel shaft line is top notch. The price makes them even better.

I used to never have been known to have allergy problems, but it seems that for the past couple of years, around the time that the weather changes to spring-like.. I get the case of the sneezing , that is out of control.. or a burning sensation in my eyes.. I guess as I'm approaching my middle 30's.. I'm going to start getting these allergy issues.. oh well.. i guess its part of life Luckily, the Walmart brand/generic Claritin works pretty good for me. I get the 30 day box and I'm good for the year. Just a little info, in case some of you don't have severe allergy issues and are looking to cut your Claritin costs down a little

Hireko Golf and their products were actually under Dynacraft a while back. They've been putting out quality components for a long time. As reputible as the OEMs; you can't go wrong.

ah..you can't have all the fun

irons are tools.. which are meant to be used

Slazenger products are exclusive to Golf Galaxy / Dicks Sporting Goods only.. Same as Maxfli, Walter Hagen.. and whatever else DSG's owns..

I have the Limey UL540, stiff flex in my driver that i just built a few weeks ago. Raw cpms of 249.. I tipped it 1/4" Tested it this past weekend. I'd have to describe it as a "ProLaunch Blue, on steroids".. Its a little more stout than a PL Blue.. and even though its low torque... its not boardy.. definately has some kick; loads and unloads great Isn't as soft as a PL Blue.. but still can't handle aggressive transitions... it seems..

I'll be playing these this season and I am going into this year knowing that I will struggle at first.

Not really sure what the raw weight of my shaft was.. The specs list it as 65-69 grams.. but still trying to find out if that is after trimming or raw.. If its raw.. then the swingweight spreadsheet calculator I have estimates my SW around C7 or so.. I think the general concensous is, once you start going below 44", you have to either start looking at heavier graphite shafts or lightweight steel. With lightweight shafts, you start lowering the overall static weight too much, once you start wacking off driver lengths below 44".. Not only is sw a feel factor.. but so is total overall static weight of the club. I did consider steel.. but I have always wanted to try out a Limey.. so I took the plunge. If you are serious going to go shorter than 44".. I would go this option.. this could be a low cost experiment: Grab the Dynacraft Genesis, in 12* of loft. They are in stock and are on closeout for $29.95. It has adjustable weighting, so you can increase the static weight with just screws. No need with any tricky "hot melting/rat glue".. or tip weights, etc.. http://www.hirekogolf.com/hireko/ord.../835/0/0/0/0/0 Get yourself a graphite wood shaft that weighs in the 70's range.. preferably one that shows some tip trimming instructions for a 3w/5w/7w ..etc.. Now, decide what length you want to build it at. If 43-43.5".. that is around 3 wood length. Get the screws you need for the Genesis driver head above to get the weight to standard "3 wood" weight. Now whatever shaft you get, just follow the tipping instructions to tip it if you are putting it in a 3 wood. This is basically all you are building.. is a large, low lofted #3 wood, in reality.

you may have misunderstood.. But I will tell you that TLT and "Single Length" are two totally different concepts. In TLT, its very possible, that the low lofted irons will be shorter than standard length.. and your higher lofted, short irons, will be longer than standard length. With the "1 Iron / Single Length" concept.. all head weights are the same.. all lie angles are the same.. only thing different is the loft.. and the number on the sole.. Shafts are tip trimmed, for that head weight.. and built to the length that you are fitted for.. myOstrich Golf also has a component head where a clubbuilder can build your own "Single Length" iron set. http://www.myostrichgolf.com/clubmak...oducts_id=1182 If you notice.. look at the lie angles and head weights.. TLT uses traditional components and regular shafts, but its just a totally different fitting concept.. that goes outside of the box, away from the "standard" 1/2" increments. What works for one golfer.. might not work for you..

My new driver in the bag this year will be a high loft, "short" driver. I built an Ashton MS-5, hand picked at 12* of loft (has 12.5* stamped on the head). It comes in at 198 grams. Shaft of choice is the Graman UL540 Limey. I believe the trimmed weights of these fall in the 65-69 gram range. Raw cpm's of 249, I tipped it 1/4" and have it installed with a completed club length of 44 1/4" total length. No tip weighting , lead tape, hot melt .. nada.. Waggled it .. and it felt good.. Took it to the range this weekend and I was pleasantly suprised. Nice, boring mid-launch.. about 245-250 carry.. Excellent feel.. as good as the OEM's off the shelf I have tried.. Swingweight is only a number, that comes up, in relationship to the parts you have selected. You might be suprised that if you just go ahead and built that short driver and try it out, you just may like it.

I like the Top Flite XL5000's (in the green box.. Super Soft, I believe). Long off the tee.... spin good for a budget ball. One instance last year that stuck out to me was a 162 yard Par 3 on my home course, that I stuck one of these about ten feet past the pin.. and rolled it back to pin high.... (unfortunately, I was to the left :) ) Very few budget balls can do that, and finally I found one.

True Length is not built the same length for the whole set. That is the "1 Iron" Golf set. TLT still has increments for each iron, throughout the set. Its just a different concept of incrementing, that is different than today's "standard" of 1/2" incrementals. Its based on math/trig and your WTF

I don't think Nicklaus Golf makes the Walter Hagen products no longer. I had emailed Nicklaus Golf about this a while back and got emails back from a couple of their sources that stated this.

I play a 58*/8* that is great from the sand and works well from pretty much any lie. 8* of bounce is enough to get me out of the firm sand traps in my playing area; 8* bounce also allows me to attack the ball from a fairway lie and not worry about digging

I'm unofficially around a 20 handicapper.. (horrible short game and horrible off the tee) New bag for the 2009 season will have a set of Hogan Apex blades. I hit down on the ball and take a nice divot, so for $249 , I couldn't pass up on a brand new set of Apex's

I say.. who cares.. Why worry about what mid or low or high handicappers are playing. Play the clubs that YOU enjoy playing and not worry about what everyone else is playing. If people spent less time worry about what everyone else was playing and directed that attention to something more positive.. such as improving your own game

A couple of weeks ago I tried out a few drivers at my local Dick's SG store; the Raw Distance driver was one of them. The Slazy Raw Distance driver is shafted with a Harrison Striper shaft of some sort. I also tried a couple of HiBore's; one with stock shaft the other with PL Blue and I tried a TM 580XD with stock shaft. I had a lower launch and very inconsistant spin with the Raw Distance driver compared to the other ones I tried out. The Harrison Striper in R flex seemed firm and had a boardy like feel. My swing speed is in the high 90's.. (98-99) with my HiBore shafted with the PL Blue 65, in an R flex. I was hoping to like the Raw Distance driver, just so I could take advantage of the "Get two free" special, but the results on the launch monitor pursuaded me to not take the plunge.