BGPro

Driver - $150 for the head, $250 for the shaft 3wood - $100 for the head, $300 for the shaft 2 hybrid - $250 3 hybrid - $250 4-PW - $800 for the heads, $250 for the shafts 52*/58* wedges - $200, $60 for the shafts (proj.x) Putter - $300 (actually traded in a set of irons worth $300 for the putter) So... about $3,360 for everything... it now has become apparent as to why my bank account has been mysteriously dwindling, lol!

Home course is Oak Ridge C.C. About 10-15 years ago it was in the top 5 nine hole courses in Texas... it's been let go just like a fat kid in a doughnut shop. It's STARTING to look like a golf course again, but it's gonna take a lot more time and $$ for that to happen any time soon.

The new pro at our club decided that since he didn't have an aerator, he'd disk the fairways. He tore the $hit out of them, leaving huge trenches in them that still haven't recovered after 2 months of doing it. He didn't even bother to re-seed them. Anyone ever heard of this before?

No it doesn't make sense. Open your 58 up and flop it.

I had the same problem a few years ago. I played the original Isopur from Ping and I liked it, but didn't love it. I found that it felt different from different distances... (the face insert reacted different with different stroke speeds). I sought out to find a putter that felt the same, all the time. At first I shyed away from insert putters but found that I really enjoyed the scotty that I have now. As far as looks, I find that the topline of the putter is what matters to me the most. I enjoy having a thicker topline. Find a face that you like and then find a style. That's what I suggest.

I play an R9 for a 3 wood and hit it very good off the deck. I also carry a burner 5w and that thing is EASY to hit high and long. I'd suggest the burner with a softer tip shaft... can't go wrong and they're cheap right now.

have any of you tried the Top Flite D2 Feel? It has the distance of the XL, but the feel of a more quality ball. I'm able to spin these very nicely around the greens. At 15 bucks for 15 of them, it's a sweet value also. I'm not saying I play them, but I've played them before when I found a few the other week. I personally play the Taylormade TP Red.

If I hit the ball well I'm happy. If I hit the ball poorly, I'm frustrated. I don't think I get mad... just frustrated and motivated to come back and fix what was wrong :) I would rather have a good day of ball striking and a bad score than a bad day of ball striking and a good score.

I use model paint and apply it with a toothpick... works nicely. I've got the same irons and don't worry about spilling paint on them... just fill the swoosh and later take the toothpick and scratch off the excess paint from the back of the blade.

taylormadegolfpreowned.com is sweet. I am amazed at the quality of used clubs. Just bought two clubs, one in "excellent" condition which couldn't have been hit before, and one in "very good" condition that was hit maybe 2 rounds... good stuff.

well... that particular callaway is a bore-through design, so if you just hacked it off you'd wind up with a baseball bat... plus, you really shouldn't extend a club more than 1/2" I have to be honest, I've done that for a few of my customers and they seem to be happy, but I wouldn't put the effort into it... you can find a used driver with a quality shaft for under 100 at almost any golf galaxy nowadays, and that driver will probably only be a year or two old.

Obviously any tour level ball will have the most POTENTIAL to spin the most... HOWEVER... the real answer is... a ball that is struck solidly will spin the most. If Tiger Woods played a Top Flight, he could spin it more than you could, simply because he strikes the ball better.

In my opinion, the reason the longer club worked better is because the shorter club was probably coming in at impact very FLAT... meaning the toe was digging in more than the heel. By increasing the length of the club, you now have a new point at which the club bottoms out, and because it is farther away from you, it was probably more neutral or upright. Your height is NOT the determining factor in club length... it is the distance your knuckles (make a fist and hold your hands at your sides... the punching knuckles) are to the ground. That deals with ARM LENGTH. So... perhaps you feel more comfortable with shorter or "standard" clubs rather than 1" over, but the reason you hit the 1" over clubs better is because the LIE ANGLE was better for you. I would make sure you go to a club fitter and have him or her check your LIE ANGLE to see if it is correct... that is the second thing I test for when I fit someone for clubs. After the length is determined, then I go to the LIE ANGLE... and to be honest, sometimes you don't need new clubs at all... you just need yours bent to the correct angles. I hope you can understand my rambling, and I hope it helps. Please, if you have any other questions or need me to clarify something feel free to drop me a line... I'm here to help.

There IS no comparison... Diamana all the way on this one.

What I would suggest is going to your local club builder (or just call) and ask. Also, if you look at their products on TM's site, and look at the club/shaft specs, it SHOULD be there... i think. But caution... even if you buy the correct shaft size, you MUST have the correct ferrule, or else your shaft won't fit correctly and you will damage the club.

I'm "on staff" with NIKE... represent!

The 3 wood is tough for most people, lol. I hit a 16* hybrid for a while and LOVED it. I hit it about 250 in CARRY. However, I also LOVE to hit the driver off the deck, so my opinion is a bit biased. Before you purchase another hybrid, what kind of shaft is in your 3 wood? If it is a high/mid kick, try an inexpensive mid kick with a soft tip... try the NVS. Good shaft, reasonable price ~$65.

I agree here... I caddied for 7 years, and I LOVED to carry the Hoofers. I have one from my Sophomore year of HS, and after 10 years, I STILL use it! Can't go wrong with a hoofer. If money is an issue, you can find one used for cheap now. Good quality, and exceptional performance!

I'm playing professionally and I don't have my shafts "pured," and I'm doing just fine, lol. I think that shaft puring falls under the same category as matching swingweights for all your clubs (lol, which I do). It all comes down to personal preference, and opinion. Some say it works, some say it doesn't matter. Find two identical clubs, one with a pured shaft, and one without and see which you like better. My two cents.

A stiffer shaft is going to help control the accuracy of the shot, not necessarily the "ballooning" of the ball. What is your swing speed? Many factors are attributed by the shaft specs. The NV is a mid/high kick, designed to keep the ball at around a low to medium trajectory, but if you don't strike the ball correctly ANY shaft will make the ball balloon. Your stock Nike shaft from your 9* is more than likely a mid kick with a softer tip, designed to help the ball get in the air, which is probably why that combination of shaft/and 9* works for you. If you are looking to get the ball higher quicker, a mid/low kick would be best. If you are looking to keep the ball lower, a high kick would be best. As far as the degree of the clubhead is concerned, you should first choose a shaft you like and then figure out which clubhead best fits the shaft. That's how I go about it. I could hit a 8.5* with an NVS just as high as a 10.5* with an NV. Make sense? You say you like the 9* ignite, but you wonder if a stiff shaft would be better? I am a bit confused.

Haha, no, I am not Tiger Woods. I am thinking it was a weird coincidence, but I wanted to see if anyone had that problem, or has that problem. If I could just have access to that damn tour van, lol.

I agree that the loft is probably too low. A regular flex shaft would be O.K., but the stiff shouldn't throw you for any loops, as the stiffer the shaft, the straighter the ball will go... you'll just lose about 5-10 yards. I'm sure your hybrids/irons go straight, but the driver is another beast. Check out the TaylorMade burners or the Nike's. You can find them for a pretty good price nowadays. Good luck!

Not at all. I don't ever swing 100% unless I have to. I try and swing around 85-90% on every shot. I use a DVS X flex, tipped 1/2" to make it a bit stronger.

I can squeeze 200 carry from my 6 iron if I NEEDED to... but I don't count on it, lol. My 6 is about 190 no wind (carry).

Be very cautious of "players" clubs if you are looking for a step-up set. If you DO go with players clubs, don't go muscleback... go with a cavity. In all honesty, look at the new callaways, or even the tour model of them. You don't need a forged club yet, because based on even a 14 handicap, you won't benefit from it as much as you could a cast cavity. I understand that you want clubs you can grow into, however, don't jump the gun too quickly. If you'd like to try more of a blade or players club, look into purchasing a used set first for around $200... you can find Titleist DCI 990s for that price in pretty good condition. They are not forged, but they offer you a combination of muscleback with a slight cavity, small head, thin topline, and a solid feel. I am just worried that you may damage your game instead of help it. Personally, I "stepped-up" to the 990's when i was in high school, and played with them until the first year or so of being a professional. THEN, once I consistently shot par or better, I went to a forged muscleback blade. That's just my 2 cents... I'd hate for you to spend mucho $$'s and be hindered, rather than helped. Happy hunting!