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Everything posted by Stacey_E
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I find a LOT of useful information at the manufacturers' websites. You can get right down to the nitty gritty on lie angle, shaft length and weight, cubic centimeters.....etc
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A 10.5* adjustable driver can be taken from 9.5 to 11.5 degrees. I'd say that (with shaft matching) covers 90+% of amateur golfers. You could have a 9.5* X-flex shaft or 11.5* senior flex for the golden years. All of this would be at your disposal with a wrench and possible shaft change. Seriously, 10.5* in a "stiff" factory OEM shaft and adjustable head is an excellent combo for anybody.
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Mizuno MX700 is an absolute sleeper club that can be had on the cheap. This club didn't take off because a lot of Mizuno fans are lower or aspiring to be lower handicaps. I carried one for two years and it has one hot face, high launch and low spin. I'd strongly recommend it to any handicap over 5. Go with a stiffer flex than you normally use because the standard shaft is a tad floppy and the head launches relatively high for the loft on the sole. Honorable mention to the Big Bertha 460 (the one with the white line on top). I have hit my longest drives ever with this club in a low loft / high launch shaft combo.
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Best way to know which shaft flex I should use
Stacey_E replied to Gaviao's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
I'd say try some online fitting stuff through Ping, Titleist, Cobra etc. Be really REALLY honest about your distances and you should get in the ball park. These don't take into account tempo, lag, lie angles and such like a true dynamic fitting would. They should get you a general consensus. If you are fitting for a driver it is obviously more complicated. Id also try some demo clubs at a local range or course. You will know what feels right and what launches the best for you within a large bucket's time. And if you hit an 8 iron 150 consistently you probably want stiff flex. One manufacturer's regular is another's stiff.....especially when you get into the "exotic" shafts. -
Wedges that come with Iron Sets - good or bad?
Stacey_E replied to lhrocker's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
I personally like matching wedges in the clubs you tend to take full swings on. For me that is the pitching wedge as I cant remember ever taking a greenside shot with it. I have had and liked matching gap, sand and lob wedges. They are more forgiving on full shots and often have a wide bounce that plays well out of thick grass and sand. That being said, I feel I have a lot more touch with more blade like wedges. I use the 52* on any greenside shot that I can, and my Vokeys just seem more consistant than a cavity back on those close in shots. -
I actually bought a "BY YOU" and I have to say it was a VERY consistant shaft. It also had a good feel to it, tight and snappy at impact. It was so consistant that I finally realized that I have a pretty big delofting move with my driver. So I traded the FT9 with the original Axis shaft and the By You shaft for a R9 Super Tri 11.5* and R9 5 wood. I couldnt be happier with either of those clubs. I've never been able to dial a driver in so quickly. The 5 wood was another story, but I finally have a nice setup at the top of the bag. Lobbob2, you should definately go for the Proto. I personally felt like it had as tight of a dispersion as a Proforce V2 but with a little more pop in the FT9 head.
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Getting fitted and club selection questions
Stacey_E replied to nogoodatthis's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
I would say any of the major 5 or 6 brands are a safe bet as long as the shafts are fitted to your needs. Clubhead construction is important too. Most opt for a more forgiving head (like the S2) if they cant get out to play a lot, and a more traditional blade style if they are looking to work and improve. You can usually get a large portion of your investment back if you shop carefully and buy slightly used clubs (from a major manufacturer) - that is if you decide to upgrade or change your setup later. -
Getting fitted and club selection questions
Stacey_E replied to nogoodatthis's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
Lets do the math. 6-gw is 6 clubs. Each shaft will cost you $10 minimum for steel plus $5 minimum for the grip. A shaft pull and replace around here will run you about $10 per club. A lie adjustment will cost you about $5 per club. Add that all up and you are looking at about $30 per club x 6 clubs is $180. This does not take into account the fact that your club heads are weighted for graphite regular length shafts (if I read your current set up correctly). Replacing those shafts with +1" steel would send the swingweights off the charts. And replacing them with quality graphite would definitely cost a bit more. PGA Value Guide currently has those irons resaling around $180. My advice is to skip the re-shaft and sell the clubs at an asking price of $250 (read $200). Put that $200 on some new fitted irons, or slightly used 1" over irons and have the lie adjusted. YMMV -
Another one I need to check out. I know lots of advice out there says to go for carry distance in your setup. I do like having a low trajectory at times. Its nice to see a cut shot get on the ground and start rolling out instead of a high hanging cut that turns into a slice. My preference is to have all three trajectories available when I need them. I once had a KZG 325cc driver that I could hit on any trajectory just by tee height. With the 460cc drivers, it seems I have to change setup and swing plane to adjust to what I want. I'm looking for a shaft that I can load with a smooth 95 mph swing late or early in the round, but still be able to step on it hard (105 max for me) in the middle of a round when I'm good and loose.
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Thanks for the advice newtogolf! I'll do a little on line research on all those shafts.
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Got fitted...Lie angle...swing speed...I'm confused
Stacey_E replied to BrokeLoser's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
I'd say the lie angle you were given was about right. While I agree you need some time to loosen up, I have heard stories (not very scientific I know) of golfers adjusting after a number of shots to the iron that is in their hand. Give anybody a 6 iron, either in 2 degree upright or flat, and let them hit 100 balls (to take the example to the extreme) and they will adjust to the club. As for the driver.....I have been told, though I rarely adhere to the advice, you should swing about 80%. To me that means you are in your wheel house after about 5 swings, and "stepping on" a fitted shaft MIGHT get you into the slightly floppy territory. Better to err on the weak side of flex than the stiff side. Of course that doesn't include transition, wrist angle, angle of attack, overall feel, launch angle.... -
I recently added an FT-9 neutral 9* to my bag. It has a stiff Axis Prolaunch Blue shaft installed. I have noticed that I get two tendencies of ball flight that I'm not seeing in my other clubs. Basically I am fighting the high fade that hangs so much that I am loosing probably 20 yards in distance. The other extreme is when I step on a drive I get the low pull left. My best results is a mid-low trajectory that carries about 230 and rolls about 30 more yards. First off, I know these problems are due to swing inconsistencies, and things I need to work out on the range. Secondly I also need more time to work with the driver, but I do love the feel, look and sound of the driver. I had been playing a 10.5* regular flex Mizuno MX700 for two seasons and my fairways hit on average has dropped from 70+% to about 65%. Plus I never know where to aim from the tee box. I see that the shaft specs for the Axis Blue "stiff" is a 4.0, which seems rather floppy to me. Does anyone with I-MIX experience have a recommendation or a short list of shafts to try? I consistently swing 100 mph +/-2 and have a smooth transition from the top (when I am swinging within my myself). I would like something within the 55-65 gram weight with good mid trajectory and a nice first bounce to get that extra roll on dry fairways. I have tried and liked the regular Prolaunch Blue and Proforce V2 in stiff shafts before , but that was in older drivers. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!!
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What do you think about 3 degree wedge spacing?
Stacey_E replied to mosnas's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
And just because it says 51 or 56 degrees doesnt mean it is that exact loft. You might want to have those spec-ed. I have seen brand new Vokeys spec 2* off, and I was quite shocked. They tend to be pretty consistant off the shelf. -
What do you think about 3 degree wedge spacing?
Stacey_E replied to mosnas's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
Exactly! I would suspect, without seeing your swing that you are delofting some wedges and sliding under others. I personally prefer 5 or 6 degress of loft between wedges. Loft is not the only factor in distance. Basically all wedges off the shelf are within 1/4 to 1/2" to each other in shaft length. Factor in angle of attack, ball position, the fact that some wedges are easier to "step on" than others...etc. If you have a variety of bounces avaible in your bag that is a huge plus. The distances come with practice, or so I have been told. -
According to their website, that driver has a D9 swingweight. That is super heavy by most standards. It is like they expect you to cut the shaft. A rule of thumb has every 1" of shaft you remove lowering the swingweight by 6 points. So taking it to 45.5" should result in a SW of roughly D3. That is about the norm across the industry, or it was recently. Another inch would make it....lets see...C7ish and that is in the realm of ladies clubs. Not that there is anything wrong with that. You can of course compensate by adding 2 grams of head weight to increase one swing weight, 9 grams of shaft weight, OR lessening the grip weight by about 5 grams (per swing weight). All of that being said, I have ventured into this realm before. I would personally advise that if a club needs that much modding off the shelf, it may not be right for you. Contrary to popular magazine articles and whatnot, I'm not convinced that a longer shaft is THAT much harder to hit in the center of the face (given a little practice and patience). The thing that these articles dont mention, with the whole MOI and COR boom of newer drivers, hitting slightly off center can still give you a playable drive. With these hot faced, high MOI drivers you can still get a playable poke off the toe or heel, but those dead solid perfect shots are SMOKED down the fairway. YMMV
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I hit a five iron farther than my 3h?
Stacey_E replied to sebsmash's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
What he said. Plus dont trust those mats. There may be some funky angle of attack / ball spin action happening off of those mats. Hit some grass, be it range or course. If those numbers still hold true, then maybe hybrids (or that particular hybrid) arent for you. I had a Nike CPR when I first started playing. Fun to hit as a beginner, but had a butt load of offset and a floppy shaft. That thing would bring rain, but quickly became obsolete to me. -
Im the first one to admit that having a 64* wedge in your signature will get some eyes rolling That being said, for the price of a new 64* you could get an entry level GPS. I promise you two things about a GPS....#1 you will have accurate distances for all of your clubs. #2 you will hit more GIR. If you then find you are shortsiding yourself a lot, and/or laying up to 60-80 yard distances a lot....go for a 64*. Also try keeping track for about 4 or 5 rounds of how many times you hit each club in the bag. This will help you know exactly what clubs are useful vs. dead weight. As always, good luck and hit em straight!
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Im using a "sandwedge" with 12* of bounce and 58* of loft....BUT it has what Titleist calls a "C" grind. According to their website it plays more like a 10* wedge. I find I can use it off the burnt, summertime fairways here in Tennessee as well as in fluffy sand. Remember there is a lot more to bounce than just the degree of bounce. The grind of the sole can affect the "playability" of any amount of bounce. Also consider the depth of the flange. I remember there was a Hogan Sure Out sandwedge a while ago. It had "8 degrees" of bounce but the sole was so deep from front to back, I think a newbie could have gotten out of almost any bunker. And as I am sure the OP is aware, the angle of attack of a particular golfer has everything to do with what bounce works for you. Going from 14* to 12 or even 10* shouldnt be a huge stretch.
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I'd say it depends on the loft of your gap wedge. Im guessing its closer to 50* than 52*. If that is the case, you have a 10 degree gap between the two. I wouldnt necessarily sweat the degree of the wedge as much as the gaps in distance. If you can cover those distances then dont worry about it. But it is nice having a mid to high bounce wedge in your set, regardless of the loft. If you have room in the bag, and in the wallet, maybe you should pick up a slightly used 54-56* in 10-14* of bounce for those fluffy lies (be it sand or grass). I find a high bounce wedge is also good for chipping around the greens when the course is wet. Even 14* of bounce is playable from the fairway with the ball back in your stance.
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Ask Pete Rose how GOAT is is relative term. I'm not a Tiger hater BTW and NEVER have been. I would love to see him get his 19 majors. Unless I'm mistaken, Jack was quoted several years ago (well before the scandel) as saying something to the effect of "let's see how well he can play while balancing a family and career." That is NOT an exact quote at all!!! But it goes to the point that it takes a man to be well balanced, grounded and successfull in his chosen profession. I suppose Tiger does have some fuel left in the tank. And mark my words, if he makes it to 19, there will be more than few secretly elated people (not JUST golfers) who will be happy to see proof of how humans can come back from personal tribulations - John Daly might be among them.
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I may be the only one to admit this, but I read a putt just like the original Tiger Woods PS game. I imagine the ball heading straight toward the hole, and where it would end up on that line and speed. Then I adjust right or left based on that imaginary line. Often, if not always I find the break is less than I would imagine, relative to that "straight at the hole" line. I do hate missing on the "pro" side. I'd much rather under read the break and be below the hole. I do however, always consider that the ball will break much less in the first 1/3 of the distance (due to pace) than the last 1/3. And as a brief aside, I've started to hit more 10-20 footers since I quit prescibing to the "die in the hole" approach and started trying to lag it 18" past.
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NO MORE clubs changes for 2012
Stacey_E replied to jmanbooyaa's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
I can dig the resolution! Sounds like a winner to me. I MAY reshaft one of my long hybrids or short woods, but I'm not shelling out any money this year for equipment other than some Pro-V1Xs and gloves. This set up got me knocking on a single diget handicap, and with a little bit more course time I will break through. Enough is enough on the spending. I am soooo over the "Hotlist", though I think it is quite usable for the beginner or transitioning player. -
Proforce V2 wood shaft in a hybrid?
Stacey_E replied to Stacey_E's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
Thanks R11, that pretty much confirms the way I interpreted the trimming instructions too. Ive also thought about putting it in my 7 wood which I carry now, but I only hit that club once every 2 or 3 rounds. It just launches too high for me on level ground and also pretty much duplicates my 4 hybrid in distance. It is also harder to hit off a downhill lie than a hybrid. I suppose I'd just like to use this shaft on some club, because I always liked how tight of a pattern it gave in that old driver. I know the stock DWS length for that club is 40.5" but I might cut it 41". I'm trying to fit something between my 40" 23* hybrid and 42" 16.5* 4 wood. -
Proforce V2 wood shaft in a hybrid?
Stacey_E replied to Stacey_E's topic in Clubs, Grips, Shafts, Fitting
It is currently in an old G5 driver and I know it was tip cut 1" already. As for swing speed, I've not had it measured in over a year. At that time it hovered around 90mph. But in the past year I have deffinately picked up speed through some minor swing changes. I know from GPS measurings I am carrying the driver 230-240 with 10-30 yards of roll on flat fairways. Im averaging 250-260 total on solid hits, with my 7 iron at 155-160 and PW at 125. I suspect I have gotten up to 95 m.p.h. and maybe 98-100 in the middle of a round after loosening up but before fatigue sets in.