ChrisWev

Sounds like a good way to do it Pete. I do the opposite to that and you're right it does make me swing all over the place and try to correct each swing, which is unlikely to be consistent. I imagine this would not be possible on the range though, another good thing about having a launch monitor.

Not really fussed what anyone else has/ hasn't done, although I find getting to 2.5 in 18 month hard to believe but not impossible. It would be impossible to do that in the UK though. There's just not enough daylight and decent course conditions and is obviously harder if you have a day job.

In all honesty I actually feel sorry for Dan and wouldn't expect the guys form over the pond to be this critical. Here in the UK many love to shoot a trier down,especially the press, it's poor form really. I would love to see how many critical people on here have done as well as he has in similar time frames, starting late in life (which is certainly harder) and with limited physical ability. At a guess he's probably been going 5 years and 6000 hours which is about a 3hr per day average. There's a lot of guys on here who will have been playing 10 years at 2 rounds per week and be on similar time frames and not broke 80 yet, some won't have even broke 90. I've seen guys on my course that are about 50, have been members 20 years, play three times a week and have handicaps of 20 (not sure how) but you never see them shoot less than 100 in stroke play. Then again that proves the 10,000 hour thing just doesn't work. They've probably put in 50,000 hours and are still crap. On another note: https://twitter.com/TheDanielPlan

Haha, that leaflet is brilliant :) Anything mentioning a combination of "free", "get healthy","xx day plan", "biblical principles" is: Not going to be free Not going to work Not be backed up by any meaningful evidence

Never noticed the ball until afterwards haha! Yeah I'm aware of that overswing (and how it lifts my head and flattens shoulders) and the drill I was on about mentioned starting to rotate the hips just before the downswing (think it was mentioned as clearing the hips earlier, assume that's the same thing) so these will be the next two things I tackle once I get a bit set in better with the setup and takeaway.

Set Up: Been working on sticking my bum back a bit and getting a bit more lean forwards towards the ball, which has really helped that shoulder plane (until I over swing). Swing thoughts: On the back swing I saw a drill (https://youtu.be/__STx0KvqX4?list=FLCTyTKo2eIQbZKq7DCnYv8Q) to try and help a bit more with the flipping which effectively imagines you're pushing a pack of balls back straight to camera on the back swing to load the RH side more and gives a bit of lag. The smash bag helped for balls immediately after but then soon faded back off to flipping and wasn't great on the wrists. This drill has helped loads, and I've not even progressed into thinking about the hip turn first which is mentioned in the video. It's made my swing path come a bit left on the video, but I wasn't thinking about path on the downswing with this practice. After a few practice swings outside I went on the LM indoors and this was the result of my second batch of 20 shots with the 7i: I seem to have eliminated the big pulls which were my longest shots and now the longest/ best strikes are the straight ones which is what I've been aiming for. Strike was massively improved and there were hardly any fat shots. It still doesn't feel natural yet but I'm happy again now and feel my game is "playable" again. Had no face tape on and beat my furthest ever carry with the 7i and it was even a straight shot, which I'm made up with. My previous longest were 20-50 yard hooks and the ones going right on this were probably in the heel I imagine, so not that concerned with that at the minute. Club speed is an estimation so don't read much into that, same as smash factor, spin is noticeably lower but was using a bridgestone e7 which doesn't spin much. Hopefully as this becomes a bit more natural (can't imagine it will take long) and I try and stop the overswing I can tighten that dispersion up a bit. New set up seem miles better, happy again :) Been working on my putting most weekdays, but not had much course time as course flooded, managed a bit of short game work though. After a bit of a two week swing relapse I'm definitely in a much better position than a few month back, and this is no doubt due to the pointers with trying to avoid the flipping and flat shoulder plane. Thanks for the input guys, been a big help. Tried to film this last swing with a bit better angle this time.

Yeah I imagine the temp effects the ball at impact, which can reduce ball speed and along with a crap range ball effecting ball speed at impact. The Humidity or dampness will probably effect it more in flight, with water being more dense than air etc.

Damp could be resistance on the ball, would be interesting to see if it effected ballspeed at all just after impact?

The driver is a hard club to hit, but so is the two iron. I don't think I've ever played with anyone that carries a two iron in all honesty.

I never play a bump and run from more than 5 yards to the green. In fact I don't think I ever play a shot that allows the variable of the fairway/ fringe to take effect unless there's no green to work with. The way I see it is although every bump and run would be practically a certainty to hit the green, the chances of a two put or worse are equally as likely. For me doing that would never get me below 15 handicap. From 10 bump and runs from 20 yards to green and with another 10 yards on green I imagine I would end up with stats like this (with no stats to back this up whatsoever): 1 wouldn't make the green or fly straight past it, so then possibly 3 shots from there (4 shot total) 8 would be two putts form where it lands (3 shot total) 1 would be 1 putt (2 shot total) 30 total shots, so 3 shots average (or bogey golf or worse, assuming the green has been missed/ short) Same scenario with 10 pitches/ chips/ putt chips 1 wouldn't make the green or fly straight past it, so then possibly 3 shots from there (4 shot total) 5 would be two putts (3 shot total) 4 would be one putt (2 shot total) 27 total shots, so 2.7 average (5.4 shots per round, assuming the green has been missed/ short over 18 holes) It's unlikely I would miss 18 greens so that 5.4 isn't really a true reflection, but you could also say that if you've got a bunker in front of you that you can't use the bump and run. Seeing as a pitcher/ chipper would be more practiced in this scenario they would undoubtedly end up closer on average.

Any green really, for me. Greens over here in the UK are pretty soft but the e7 ball would still fly through the back all the time for me, especially as the 7i was only spinning around 4000rpm. It's a noticeable distance on any club using a better/ softer ball on approach shots but the more spin REALLY helps with the short game shots (especially if there's not a lot of green to work with).

It could simply just be down to hitting it in the heel. Example (based on flightscope trajectory optimiser): Centre strike with driver Swing speed: 100mph Strike: Middle Smash factor: 1.45 Ball speed 145mph Launch: 17 degrees: Carry: 245 yards Heel strike with driver Swing speed: 100mph Strike: Heel Smash factor: 1.25 Ball speed 125mph Launch: 17 degrees: Carry: 195 yards Strike is absolutely critical If your 2i or hybrid is going that far it suggests the same as someone who carries 250 with driver but just hits it in the middle more.

I have/ had this problem too. It's certain your heel hits that are having a big effect on the ball slicing/ fading with the driver (or more noticeable with driver), this is down to gear effect. It's good that you're aware of where you are striking it on the face though. This will cause a massive loss of distance too. Your face and path numbers might be good if you're hitting it straight and it stays straight (this is likely happening when you hit it in the middle I would guess). The above comments formt he other guys will hopefully help you hit it more central, when you get it closer to middle it will be easier to work out what your face and path are doing (unless your pro measures this) and should give you a more consitant ball flight and it will go miles further.

Had 5 drives in the 262-268 range this year (according to GG) which I'm very happy with considering I don't really bother playing when it's really windy and our fairways aren't hard. I average 225 though from last 10 rounds. Strange thing is my furthest 3W is 259, and that was off the deck! I've hit some rockets but they usually overdraw and end up in the left rough. Hopefully I'll get one over 300y next year.

Try the e5, same cost, only about 10% more driver spin (which I assume is what side spin you're trying to avoid), but 50% more wedge spin. I was using the e7's but they were just too hard and wouldn't hold the greens on the rare occasions I hit them. I switched to the Z-Star/ Project (a). Q star isn't really an improvement on the e6 as far as wedge spin goes, more driver spin though (which most are trying to avoid).

I've been trying to stop the flat shoulders (stretching my core every day too, which has never been stretched this way), after this is sorted I'm going to try and limit that overs-wing which is lifting my head up. At some frames that kind of looks like how it's meant to haha! :)

Wow, there is A LOT of good info there (that is way above my level of understanding), but I quite liked this section: For example, let’s say we have three golfers, each with a 100 mph clubhead speed. Golfer No. 1 has a short, three-quarter length backswing with a fast, forceful transition and an aggressive downswing. Golfer No. 2 has a normal backswing length with some sense of transition force and downswing aggressiveness but not nearly as much as Golfer No. 1. Golfer No. 3 has a smooth, rhythmic, almost passive transition and tempo that identifies him as far more of a “swinger” than a “hitter.” For basic fitting, Golfer No. 2 would be advised to look among shafts that have a 95-to-105 mph swing speed rating because his swing characteristics are putting an average amount of bending force on the shaft for his 100 mph clubhead speed. Golfer No. 1 (strong/forceful transition and tempo) would be advised to look among shafts that would have a 100-to-110mph swing speed rating because his swing characteristics are “loading” the shaft more from him putting an ABOVE average amount of bending force on the shaft for his 100 mph clubhead speed. And Golfer No. 3 (smooth, passive transition and tempo) should choose from shafts that have a 90-to-100mph swing speed rating because his swing characteristics are “loading” the shaft much less for his speed and put a BELOW average amount of bending force on the shaft for his 100 mph clubhead speed. Well I certainly wouldn't consider myself "Golfer No 3", although I wish I as! I'm more of the un-listed "Golfer No. 4", over-swings and then goes at it quite aggressively! Quite looking forward to putting these to the test. A think all the examples commonly use the swing speed of the driver and this was me (edited it to pack it together) last year when I was smashing it in the heel (don't seem to have any GC2 data from anything more recent as my pro isn't the best at sending me it). Ping G20 stock regular shaft at 10.5. I would guess I'm swinging slightly faster now and probably hitting closer to middle (half of the time anyway), I feel quite agressive so I'm guessing I'll end up in the 100-110mph shaft range, but we'll see when I put it to the test. It's just a case of do I go now or do I wait till I'm swinging better, but there is always going to be something which needs fixing I suppose.

Thanks, I'll look him up on both sites, I'm sure the information will be valuable, even though I'm in the UK. I think I've found a club fitter from the Golf Monthly forum (more of a UK forum) who gets great reviews, only 40 miles away too. Does anyone know how much normal new "non forged" golf clubs can be bent (lie)? The reason I ask is I've got a lot of faults with my swing which may be effecting my lie delivery, so I wouldn't want to get fitted, my lie change and then I need new clubs again. Some might say don't buy until you iron (pardon the pun) out your flaws, but if that was the case I would still be playing some 20 year old wilsons when I get to single digits.

Yeah you're probably right, I just don't want to be steered down the short path with best immediate results, but I can explain that too the fitter. I'm more interested in something that I'm going to get better with. Saying that, it's not like Rory couldn't get par with Ping G-Max.

It might, I tried to choke down on mine for control, ended up hitting more out of the middle and they went miles further as smash factor went up.

Open your feet so they point left of target shorter the swing the more open, I go up to about 30-45 degrees. By point I mean the line from your toes on your right foot to the toes on your left. ie if your swinging a full hit your toes will be in a line parallel to target or pointing at target, depends who you are. This is open:

Was going to say once is worse than none, but if he repaired his pitch marks he's ok in my book. People who don't should be thrown off the course.

I always go for the choking down option as it's marginally the better option. But a hard 8i would end up fat and the choked 7i would end up thin .

Have you been playing Middlesbrough Municipal, this sounds very familiar!

Yeah I'm definitely going to get custom fit, just want an idea of what irons there are available forged (more so for being able to adjust in the future if need be) and with less offset too, but not blades. Not sure if there's anything else to consider, I just want to be tooled up before I go for the fitting. I'm pretty set on going: New Driver (although may stick with current one for now) Keep 3W (if it's right for me, it seems it) New 3/4 Hybrid (although may stick with current one for now) I'm not sure whether to get a 4i or just carry my 64 New 5i New 6i New 7i New 8i New 9i New PW New Cleveland RTX 2.0 50 New Cleveland RTX 2.0 55 New Cleveland RTX 2.0 60 Keep my Odyssey Putter Obviously the wedges may differ in lofts but there's a cracking offer on them at the minute and they get good reviews, but I can stick with my current ones for the time being, but that's the range I want to cover (depending on gaps from the PW etc) I was initially (a few weeks ago before I realised forged are more adjustable) considering Ping G30, Nike Pro Combo (not sure if I'm good enough for these), Callaway XR. I don't know much about Taylormade as they have a billion clubs. Dont' know about Titleist or Mizuno either. I would probably want to stick to one of the more common manufacturers in case I've got any issues etc.