wachesawgolfer

To me the parameter you play in is determined by the controlled power of your tee shot. The best short game will not replace a 275 yard drive down the middle consistently. Bottom line if you hit 200 yards off the tee, that makes you a bogey golfer at about 18. You can lower it to 10 to 12 with an exceptional short game but you will never be 5 or 0. You can also have it 25 with a poor short game. The 0 guys hit the greens easily in reg and get up and down a lot to save par. The plus people hit the second shot tighter and make more putts. Its a pleasure to play with the good guys, who are 140 out or less, hole after hole, on those long fours and easily hit the greens with short irons.

I have the i701 tours and they are great irons. To me the Mizzies don't have a lot of feel.

That is interesting to me that humid air is less dense than dryer air, considering that a cubic foot of water is much heavier than a cubic foot of air and it is much harder to hit a golf ball through water than air. I learned something.

Of course, you could also, go to any putting green and make a 1 inch back and through stroke and see how far the ball rolls and progress from there. Its much easier if you know a 3 inch back and through will roll, say, 15 feet on a level green and 6 inches will go 30 feet and so on. Keep the same stroke just adjust the length back and through to the distance. Make the stroke with a quarter on the putter, so the tempo is smooth and accelerating through the ball, but the quarter does not fall off due to jerking quick movements.

That is the idea, but doing it, as Dante instructs, your whole shoulder girdle is really free moving so yours may be dropping too much and hence the fat, behind shots. I have really given up on this method. I think the power is in the hands and the whipping of the club through for a solid release. Eliminating the hands, to me really takes out too much effortless power from the swing. I do not believe Dante really did what he "felt" he did, as is so often the case in golf instruction.

These people who hit irons a long way also deloft the club a lot in their swing through a great hands ahead impact position, whereas we mortals allow the club to play to loft, if we are lucky, or worse, hit early and up loft that 7 iron to a 9 iron at impact with just a slight left wrist fold at impact. Ball goes nowhere, no matter what you do. Practice chipping a fair distance and feel the hands staying ahead through impact and continue to enlarge to a full swing. There is a load of backswing drills you can do to make a fuller turn back and not just pick up the club.

Mostly answered above but the Japanese market is big enough to support several companies there and the Japanese are quite willing to pay a lot for what they believe to be superior products over those made in mainland China. (where all US golf heads are made except PING) Japanese irons are designed to be played on Japanese golf courses with minor grind changes from non Japan products and cosmetically appear to the local market there. Miura is a good example of a Japanese company which makes a line for the world market and a line for Japan which has more informational graphics. Of note, even the Japanese drivers and fairway woods are mostly made in China, even for the Japanese market, but the local shafts sold there are almost all made in Japan.

Look into the Tour Edge Exotics CB2, last years model but still one of the longest hottest heads out there. And, they make a 16.5 degree four wood. Downside is they are still $$$$, but well worth the money. These clubs can be custom ordered with virtually any shaft to any length and SW.

8 over for nine, seems that handicap will be going down real soon whether you take the lessons or not, to a 16 or 17.

Regardless of why you wear one, the glove changes the feel of the size of the grip and adds weight to grip/hand area which decreases the swingweight feel of the club. Thus, it is hard to wear one regularly and then not wear one for a full shot, too much difference in feel.

Just ignore them. Sometimes the pairings just do not work. So play your game and move on, who you get paired with is an integral part of the game if you cannot set up a foursome.

I see no reason to spend over $500 to buy strangers drinks. I think the drinks "on me" is for your playing partners. And you do get stuck if you in a big group, but many clubs have "hole in one clubs" where you pay $5 or $10 to a hole in one player on your bill to cover his or hers bar tab on that day.

Its a local rule issue. Reds are easier to understand and most players expect red stakes around water. Most players could not even tell the options off the top of their head with yellow stakes, that I play with.

I am the same and it has to do with my quicker transition. A regular shaft for me balloons to the right, no matter what I do. Stiff go longer and straight.

Bad putting is the result of bad setup to the line and deccelerating slaps at the ball. You need to be able to see the line to your hole and then square your putter face to that line. I see so many people with a toe up putter which closes the putter face or grounding the putter on a sloping green so that the face opens or closes a hair with the slope and is no longer square to the line. Remember a downhill lie goes right and an uphill goes left of line whether its on the fairway or on the green. Then people take the club back quick and too far so they have to slow it down through impact which results in a weak slap at the ball which never goes in the hole. Take the club back an inch and through the line a few inches and see how far the ball rolls and work up from there concetrating on hitting the ball on the sweet spot of the putter.