Hidalgo

ABSOLUTELY! I have both the MBs and the CBs. I actually prefer the CBs over the MBs simply because they will save a shot or two a round. And the statements about them not being a club that can work the ball is dead wrong. Probably the best clubs I have ever owned.

I agree with the above post except for the weight distribution statement. Can you get anyone (this is where even a 12 year old kid will work) to stand in front of you and hold the butt-end of a club against your forehead as you swing? (easy swings with a wedge, please) This will give you some idea WHEN and WHERE you are sliding around. Obviously, you are going backwards on the backswing and forward on the downswing, but what you need to look for is when the motion is initiated and whether there is a weight shift involved. What the club against your head will do is give you a reference point to concentrate on and try to remain in contact with. Like I said...easy swings with a wedge. We don't want anyone getting hit by a shanked ball. Once you get the feel of holding your head still, then have the person go behind you and take a knee. They can then hold the club against your hip about where your back pocket is located. This will give you even more of a reference point (after you learned to hold your head still). Try to pusk BACK against the club sticking in your hip...not allowing your hip to slide away from it. OK...back to the weight distribution part that I disagreed with...If you plant your right foot and brace against your right knee, you will be OK with your shorter irons. But this won't work with the long irons and the woods. (at least not with the proper swing) Footwork is paramount and stationing a large portion of your weight on one foot is a bad habit to begin with, and not the proper fix for your problem. Your weight should be free to SHIFT, but not SLIDE. And to make this a little easier.......concentrate on TURNING your hips...not sliding them. As a drill, you can simply stand erect and twist your hips back and forth, then gradually bend forward into your stance and continue to get a feel for the turn instead of the slide. Did any of that make sense? I can take you to the range and show you very easily....but putting it in writing is HARD. Obviously...I could never write a book of any sort.

Not always. Actually...not very often. An uphill putt is usually going AGAINST the grain, and the grain pushes at the ball more, causing the ball to take the break more dramatically and usually sooner than you thought. A downhill putt is usually going WITH the grain, and "floats" over the grain not allowing the grass to push it to the side as much. TN94Z, A lot depends on what type of grass you are putting on. I assume you are putting bent grass in your location. Bent grass isn't as "grainy" as Bermuda, and your main concern should be to look at the slopes on the green. Bermuda, on the other hand, can actually grow UPHILL if there is a setting sun or dominant water source in that direction. You've already been given a few good tips, like surveying the area BEFORE you get to the green, walking around the putt and looking from several different directions, and factoring into the break the amount of speed that is required to get the ball to the hole. Some folks can read greens better than others. I'm one of the ones who have trouble at times. Don't batter yourself up about it...just observe and try to learn.

Phil will either win...or miss the cut. Greg Norman will make a top 10 showing (maybe top 5) Tiger will contend...but not win. McIlroy will have a good 1st & 2nd round...then blow up in round 3. And for the ones that I'll get laughed at about : Fred Couples will be a contender (at least top 5) and just might win again (Freddie says he feels great) Boo Weekly will finish top 5......( the Masters Board wouldn't allow a "Boo" to win under ANY circumstances )

Glad to hear that you're getting out there. It's below the freezing mark here. Are you wearing a glove? If I read your post right, it sounds like you are blistering on the glove hand also? If that is the case, a little baby powder (don't use resin powder) in the glove might help. Blisters are tough to deal with sometimes. We usually either wait until the blisters heal, or wrap a couple of rounds of medical tape on them. While you're working on the grip pressure, make sure that the club is well down into your fingers and not in the palms. Keep after it.......it sounds to me like you're on the right path.

I noticed during a round with my Dad one day that he was marking his ball with a Susan B Anthony gold dollar coin. I made mention that I thought it was "neat" that he had thought of doing that. After the round...he gave me the gold dollar. The next week, my Dad passed away from a blood clot in his brain. I have used that dollar for a ball mark ever since.

That's one of the basics that any good instructor will look for. Sounds like you're getting serious about your game. That's great! If you're a 30+ as your info says, you should see a LOT of improvement in a short period of time. You're on the right track! Higgy.

That's just TOTALLY incorrect. Since a lot of folks here have questioned my opinions lately...I'll quote directly from Ping's website...... Larger grip diameters tend to restrict the release and may promote a fade or help reduce a draw or hook. Smaller grip diameters tend to encourage the release and may promote a draw or help reduce a fade or slice. Not to be rude and not trying to embarrass, but you guys need to be careful with your opinions if you aren't sure of the facts. This statement could have cost someone a bunch of money and made matters worse in the process.

Pelz feels that most amateurs are too "wristy" with their wedges around the green. Probably correct. The larger grips impede hand action. I'd try ONE club with the midsize before you go with a total switch. Hand size plays a large part in grip selection. If your hands are big, or you have extremely long fingers, it might be a good suggestion. (obviously these fitters are seeing something) But on the other hand...Arnold Palmer has very large hands, and he plays regular grips. It's a personal preference for sure. Just remember that the larger the grip...the less your hands can respond at impact. The club should be held in the fingers. Larger grips (that are too large) can cause you to move the club more up into the palm. Be careful with your grip sizes. There's absolutely no reason not to experiment. Just don't commit yourself until you're sure.

Zeph, I currently practice 2-3 times a week and hit 150-175 balls per session. Unless something's "wrong", I simply work on the basics of getting the clubhead on the ball solidly and making it go where I'm looking. The 1500 balls weekly was a couple of years ago when I was trying to ingrain a HUGE swing change. I decided to change my 20 year old fade into a draw. It was the most difficult thing I've ever done related to golf. Actually...I did have someone watching. My partner would supervise for the first 5 minutes or so to make sure we were where we wanted to be with the change, and would then leave me and return later on as I was finishing up. Anything that didn't feel "right" in his absence resulted in me summoning him back to the range for an analysis. Golf isn't rocket science (as you know) but it is usually very difficult for most people to feel comfortable with a major change until it becomes habitual. We wanted the draw to be swingpath oriented, and not have the hands and shoulders come into play to move the ball. Personally...I HATE mats. They conceal fat shots, and are extremely hard on the joints in your hands and arms. Can you practice well with them? Obviously. Butch Harmon used mats indoors every winter with his students hitting balls out of the garage doors. Most facilities in winter climates have no choice. Mats are the vehicle of choice for a lot of so-called practice facilities because they are basically maintenance free. In my opinion, a good practice facility allows you to work on everything in your game. Bunker shots, chips, pitches, etc. That can't be done on stationary mats. But in the long run, we all have to make the best of our available conditions. If I were relegated to only mats I would use them "sparingly" and only to keep my swing in some type of order until the weather or whatever afforded me the opportunity to hit off turf. I would rather limit my practice time and drive considerable time to hit off turf rather than spend all my time hitting off artificial surfaces.

Then you're good to go.

Young man, there isn't an asnwer that is definitive for the situation. In theory, the best replacement is the YS-6+ in a stiff flex, cut according to the Graphite Design instructions that come with the shaft. The reason I say that is because it seems that you are pleased with the trajectory of the current YS-6 but the regular flex is now too slow for your game. I would hesitate to go to the YS-7 series. As a general rule (but not always) when you go to a stronger flex, your trajectory will drop to a lower arc. Not only will the change from REG to STIFF flex cause a lower trajectory, but if you go to the YS-7 (which has a higher kick point than the 6 series) you are going to lower it even more. This makes me hesitant and concerned that you might reduce your carry distance with the club with the 7 series. Titleist fwy woods are notorious for being "finicky" with shafts, and that's another reason I would not recommend the 7 series. Honestly...there's absolutely no one that can tell you what this change will do. Everyone has their own likes and dislikes. But I fear that a change to the 7 series shaft rather than simply a flex change might be the wrong way to go for you. And I think that staying with the YS-6+ and going with a flex change would be the best "guess".

If the stains are on the chrome, you're most likely OK to go. If the chrome seems to be "loose" or nonexistent, you might want to start stashing away some funds to replace them.

It shouldn't be a problem to bend the wedge to adjust the loft 2 degrees...but 3 is getting borderline. BUT ..... what about the bounce? That is the biggest thing to keep in mind. If you can live with the reduced bounce that results from a bend to a stronger loft, then you might be OK with a 2* adjustment. Any tour van operator will tell you that moving a loft more than 1.5* usually creates a ill-handling club. I have seen wedges bent 2* before with no ill effects. But I would sell the club and replace it with the proper lofted wedge if it were me.

NOBODY that I saw said you were going for perfection. As a matter of fact...I wasn't talking to you at all. I was giving my opinion to the original poster. It was YOU that took up the issue with me. If working on your game yourself works for you, then I congratulate you. But that is not the most effective way to go about improving the game for most people. Just because YOU would rather do that than spend money for a competent teacher, that doesn't mean that it's the best thing for everyone else. I'm sorry...but I just can't imagine why anyone would recommend that a player who wants to improve their game in a serious way forgo seeing a competent instructor if the opportunity presents itself. Zeph, you obviously have a distaste for my posts, or perhaps you are just one of those who lashes out at educated individuals because you feel threatened. Rest assured...I could care less what the case might be. But I would suggest that since you think I'm less intelligent than you about this game, that you simply ignore my posts in the future. I came here to try to lend free assistance to the members here. I have the experience and knowledge to do so. If you, or anyone else, decides to accept my opinions and knowledge they are welcome to do so. And they are also welcome to NOT do so. I have 20 years of experience teaching and studying the game of golf. I "think" that fact makes me more qualified than most to offer an opinion on questions that arise. If you think otherwise, then join the group that will not take my opinions seriously. But I did NOT come here to argue with you or anyone else. I'm not that type of personality. But I won't stand idly by and allow a struggling player to accept advice that I know is incorrect without offering an alternative option.

Unless the shaft is deeply pitted, there is not going to be any damage that would result in shaft failure. Light surface rust will be easily removed with just a pass or two of fine steel wool. If you have to rub vigorously then you might have pitting that is deep enough to be concerned with.

I can't speak for other professionals and their teaching habits and techniques. Did you have a bad experience with a PGA professional recently that can qualify those accusations? Agreed. How about grip pressure, stance, shoulder angle, footwork, ball position....geesh, there are literally dozens of things that can cause a problem. And if you try to correct the WRONG one, then you've gone backeards. Identifying the need is the key to providing the fix. Any person that you choose should be QUALIFIED to lend assistance. Due diligence is required in this instance just as it is when choosing a plumber, mechanic, etc. Blind leading the blind is not a path to perfection. I'm glad you aren't working for an airline and learning to fly by "reading a book". After all....all airplanes fly basically the same way...right? No...I don't have the answer to everything. But I do have the answers sometimes. It sounds to me like you have taken offense to my knowledge of the swing that I have worked hard and long to obtain. I am a student of the swing. Just like a scientist is a student of his trade. But I don't usually go around bashing scientists when they offer advice about the subject they are educated to know. Especially when I know nothing about them or their experience. It sounds like you simply didn't like being told that you were wrong. As for being satisfied with a high index, that's all fine and dandy. But golf, just like every other game, is usually more enjoyable the better it is played. I sincerely apologize to you...or anyone else...that I might have offended by offering correct and accurate advice. As for me replying here, I wasn't aware that you were the administrator on this forum. Please forgive my error. Higgy.

Good description and explanation. Also, we have found that the "Tour" drivers will have the weight based VERY high in the head and also very close to the face, causing a lower trajectory and less inherent loft. Hitting a 9.5* "Tour-weighted" driver will usually provide the ball flight of a 7.5* face for the higher handicap player. Playing a driver with the weight based higher in the face, and closer to the face, requires a very high swing speed. Contrary to popular belief ( and range-talk-rumors ) there is a definite need for a certain degree of backspin to get the ball started on a desirable trajectory. Without high clubhead speeds, this isn't possible with these drivers and their weight locations in the clubhead.

Re-lofting a driver is not recommended unless you're a Tour Van technician. If you REALLY like the club, you have 2 options...... Get another one in the same model with the proper loft for your game. OR Re-shaft the club with a shaft that has a lower kick point, is lighter, and has a "touch" more flex than your current shaft. And this option is "iffy" as to whether it will correct the problem. You're throwing stuff at the wall hoping it will stick. You'd be FAR better off just buying the appropriate club. Higgy.

And exactly WHAT are you going to see? Can you identify the things that need to be identified? True...but WHAT, exactly, are you going to "pick up" ? Not true at all. I've been teaching professionally for 20 years, and I've yet to see a person who could correct a mistake themselves unless they knew HOW to make the correction in the proper manner. Well...with all due respect...your index shows just how much you know about the basics of the golf swing and how to make the club perform. Honestly, a 20 index shouldn't EVER be giving instruction. AaaaHA! Now you finally said something that we agree on. But in order to get the "feel" for a PROPER swing...the player has to MAKE the proper swing. Just because the ball flight is good, and the accuracy is OK, that isn't evidence that the swing was done in a manner that can be taken to the course and repeated. I wasn't suggesting that the player in question adopt a qualified (QUALIFIED is the key here) instructor and move into his extra bedroom. But unless you know HOW to teach and identify, and how to convey your message to the student, you have no chance of becoming a decent player. You need instruction once every 5 range sessions, on average.

Hello Ian. First off...a 1-3 yard fade isn't going to cost you any distance. There are only 2 things that cause the ball to move. One is swing path, and the other is face angle at impact. One of my favorite keys is to tell folks to "hit the inside corner" of the golf ball. You mentioned that it was cold....did you have on a lot of clothing that was binding or restrictive? Were you finishing your backswing? Both of these things are common for colder weather. You have to finish the backswing in order to get the club inside on the approach to the ball. My fix would be to make sure your backswing is complete, relax your grip, aim a little at the inside corner of the ball, and then just swing away. Higgy

Coltonwill, most of the high school players we see have clubs that are ill-fitted. This is especially a problem in fairway woods. Because of the nature of the 3W, it usually has a lower ball flight than what would be considered "optimal" for most players. You didn't mention what head you are using, so I have to assume that it isn't one of the Adams or similar that is terribly sole-weighted. If it is in fact a "normal" 3W, you would probably be better served to look for a driver shaft with a LOW kick-point. This will get you a little more initial lift off the fairway and will (in most cases) provide you with a little more distance. That is assuming that the shaft flex is correct for your game. Pay special attention to the shaft instructions when trimming the shaft. Some shafts are designed to be butt trimmed...others are designed to be tip trimmed. You CAN (we have) trim the shaft a little long or short at the tip to alter the trajectory of the shot. Trimming a little LESS that the instructions say will give you a little higher trajectory. Trimming MORE will result in a lower ball flight. Once again...this is for shafts that recommend tip trimming for fairway wood applications. Like has been said, some (most) prefer a little heavier shaft in their fwy woods. But before you make that decision, look at the manufacturers specifications for the shaft you are currently using and try to stay near that weight with the replacement shaft. Shafts of different weights can cause inappropriate swingweights when trimmed to the same lengths Higgy.

Putters are like women..... You gotta like the looks, It has to feel good in your hands, It has to perform for you. Seriously, my initial opinion of a putter usually is the right one. You said it didn't "look right"......odds are it never will. Give it a pass. Higgy

Rifle "Flighted" shafts are manufactured with different kick points through the set. The shorter iron have higher kick points (flex points) to help hold down the ball flight and prevent "ballooning". The longer irons have lower kick points to help get a higher trajectory. They aren't for everyone (I play them). If you already have a high ball flight, you might find that the regular (non-flighted) shafts work better for you. Higgy

If you want to have better game, solid contact is a MUST. I would suggest that you work on making contact consistently before you go any further. And I have no problem working on a FEW (not every club in the bag) different clubs at the same time. Hit 25 balls with the 7, then 25 with the driver, then 25 with the 4, then start over. You'll know when you're making headway when you can go from one club to the other and make a seamless transition without mis-hitting the ball. As for working on a swing change...it's almost impossible to do without assistance. I haven't seen ONE amateur that could tell you where his club was pointing in the backswing without looking...unless he had been told before. If you're going to make swing changes and work on mechanics, you need an instructor's supervision most of the time. Higgy.