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70sSanO

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Everything posted by 70sSanO

  1. Over the years I’ve become partial to Cleveland wedges, specifically the CG14. It is getting harder to find good ones, but they are pretty cheap. I use a 60* with 12* of bounce. I really don’t have to open up the face and it has enough bounce. Just hit it fat, as has already been suggested. John
  2. It is really tough for me even now. I have to plant my left heel completely before I start my downswing. I “feel” that I make a definitive pause while I plant my heel. It feels really odd. If I don’t, I rush my transition and start down too soon and the results suffer. John
  3. Decades ago I lifted my left heel without issues. When I got back playing again I fought against lifting my left heel. And if I did I would end up not shifting weight on the downswing or end up with too much weight on m right side. I am trying to setup with my hands a tad higher, which seems to give me a bit more room. But the biggest improvement is starting my downswing with my left heel. I could never do this in years past. But if I plant and then rotate the lower body, it really seems to help. It does smooth things out a lot. At 67 I’m trying to get a bit more (keep) distance and keep too much stress off my back. John
  4. Well I am certainly pleased this thread is going in the right direction... It started out with hitting straight 160 yard shots and went on for 5 pages. It is now hit 200+ yard straight shots. After another half-a-dozen pages it will be hit a straight 260 yard drive and a short iron into the green... lol! John
  5. Not being a good golfer, I hesitate to offer an opinion. Of course by this time things may have already worked out for you. In the past couple of months I have been working on a trigger and sequencing of my downswing. I’ve done this in the past, but I’ll get away from a specific move. Then my sequencing and tempo goes awry and my swing turns to real garbage and I struggle to find it. This time I’m really concentrating on a move to start my downswing and and the next sequence. After I get the swing started correctly things fall more or less into place, or I can make slight tweaks. If I start off wrong there is no recovery. I can’t say this will help you, but your coach may be help you find that trigger. John
  6. You might want to check out a Cobra F-Max 5 wood with a lite shaft. It is pretty much a no-brainer to hit. It is available with an offset, which can be helpful or problematic if are already hooking the ball. John
  7. Golf is really no different than being a musician. You can’t achieve any level of competency without practice. And you can’t really practice proper techniques working the others. You can get instruction or pointers but no one can play the notes for you or hit a golf ball for you. It takes focus and concentration; and hours of practice. Golf is one of those sports where you are alone even in a crowd. When you stand over the ball, you are not reacting to an opponent, or accepting a pass, or in the middle of a bang-bang play; it is just you and the ball. John
  8. I really like Hovland. IIRC, it’s his Sundays that really separates him from the other rookies, at least for me. He always seems to shoot well on Sunday. John
  9. Having played tennis for years, (no way is tennis more difficult), my only thought is that a tennis swing might promote too much shoulder turn. The last thing you want to do is crank a forehand winner with your driver. John
  10. Good idea. Right now all I care about is adding distance, and of course I still want to hit it where I want it to go... within reason. John
  11. The key really is to take lessons. Find someone you would be comfortable with that can teach you a correct grip and a basic swing. Decades ago a rite of passage was going from a Par 3 course to full 18 hole course. Sadly, a lot of those short muni’s are gone. But it is still the best place for a beginner to learn the game and have success. Heck, as kids some of our best results were from tee shots that rolled to the green. There is still an environment of having to chip and make that putt to score. The reality of playing golf on a full size course is being able to swing hard enough under control to get the ball down the fairway. Our daughter-in-law doesn’t play golf but has a natural ability to swing hard. When we go to the range and she actually connects with it, the ball flies. I’ve encouraged her to take lessons to transform that power into a golf swing. An instructor can tell you what to work on, but more importantly what you can expect from your game as you move forward. John
  12. Congrats on getting your irons setup for you. I think it is great to be able to play those old Wilson irons well. The good news is Wilson has really stepped up over the past 10 years or so, so if you want to stay with Wilson they do make some nice clubs. Their FG series might be a modern equivalent. For now keep hitting what you’ve got, John
  13. I’ve been working on getting more inside and eliminating as much as I can of an outside-in swing, which creeps in as I swing harder. Overall I’m a lot more consistent, but I have lost distance, especially with my longer clubs. Based on your post, I decided to loosen my right elbow a bit on the range. Didn’t work very well until I backed a little further away from the ball. Not tucking the elbow felt pretty natural and I had enough room to bring the club down and not out. Now tomorrow might be a different story, but for now... John
  14. I assume you meant 43-46-50-54-58. I’m not sure how well the gapping between 43 and 46 is working. Personally I’d go 43-48 (which is pretty typical of gapping including Titleist) instead of the 46 and 50 wedges. Only you know how necessary each wedge that you carry. Since there isn’t a Voley 53 available, you’ll have to decide if a 52 and open up if necessary or 54 and close if necessary. You’ll need to decide if you are truly gapped at 10 yards (full swing?) and playing that way, or are you adjusting your swing to get the distance for each situation. “Traditional” lofts at one time were a 9 iron was 45, PW a 50, and a SW was 55/56. Generally a 5 degree difference. Obviously you can mix your wedges to suit the course. I generally play 48-54 and a 60, but I will use a 58 if it makes more sense, even if the gap is technically off. John
  15. Congrats on breaking 90. Even more congrats on hitting a 2 iron. Wow! John
  16. 70sSanO

    Club Fitting

    I’d just use the chart to find out if the clubs are in the range for you. Your only concern would be if you got something way off. If they are, get rid of them and get something closer. After all, you are just starting and they’re used, I wouldn’t sweat it if they’re close. John Edit added: You would probably be better off taking some lessons.
  17. 70sSanO

    Club Fitting

    You can do a static fitting using the Ping color chart. It won’t help you with shaft flex, but at lest you’ll know it the lie and length is close. John
  18. I love my 60. For me, once you get the right bounce you just hit it. I use it for most greenside bunkers, and it is great for those 50 yard below the green shots. It is not a club I can back off a lot. John
  19. When I mention selling more baseball and softball bats, I was a bit serious. Mizuno is a world wide sporting goods manufacturer. Even though they are a corporation they don’t answer to a parent company, unlike some other manufacturers. They were not an apparel company that added equipment at a later date. If Mizuno makes less margin on certain items it’s their prerogative, not some investment company looking over their shoulder screaming shareholder value. John
  20. Does anyone here have any leg length discrepancy that uses AimPoint? Mine is not severe. I never notice it in everyday life. One leg is slightly shorter, I think less than 1/2”, but it causes me to run an EVA insole in one of my cycling shoes. Only sport that needs it. Just wondering if anyone knows if this will impact how well the system works. John
  21. So I guess you didn’t try any draw biased drivers during your fitting? If that would have helped and made a sale, I would think the fitter would have gone that route. It sounds like you are getting too inside... inside-out swing, push-slice, no rotating club head. Draw bias is supposed to “help” to reduce a slice, usually from an out to in swing. If you are not going to work on your swing, get the most adjustable driver you hit pretty well so you can move the weighting as things evolve. John
  22. And to think my younger brother used to say... “Golf is easy, just bring the club back to where it started.” John
  23. My guess is that Mizuno sells a ton more baseball and softball bats than Taylormade. John
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