amcquay

I tried a set of G2 irons (G10 clones) and thought they were inferior to the real thing. I wanted to like them, they would have saved me $200-300, but the Pings were just far better in my opinion. I say play what works best for your game that you can afford.

I started playing in late May of last year and shot an 89 in November. I've been hovering in the 95-105 range since then, but I'm hoping to break 85 or even 80 this year.

I just picked up a set of the P2 irons from GigaGolf out of curiosity and have been VERY pleasantly surprised. Every bit as good as the set of Ping G10s I had last year, for less than $150 new.

Or maybe just make a funny joke next time so that it's apparent.

No shredding that I've noticed with my 54° (standard bounce, does great in the sand). I hit a semi-flop shot over a small tree with it today, the ball spun back a few feet feet but there was no damage to the Srixon AD333 I was playing.

The entire text on the bag reads "Head Cover made in China".

I picked up a box of the Srixon and a box of the Bridgestone E6+ recently, found them to be somewhat comparable although I preferred the Bridgestone. It felt a little better all around, most notably off the putter (not as clicky). I also found the covers on the Srixon to get damaged pretty quickly, I've already resigned three or four to my shag bag.

You may find great results for less $$$ by re-shafting your current driver. Something to consider at least.

It's just a way to get you swinging inside out, or "towards right field". Combined with a good release it will encourage a draw, which is naturally a stronger/longer shot.

Black Footjoy glove (I hate white gloves getting all blacked up by grips, pet peeve) and a dozen Srixon AD333 balls to try out.

I'll definitely keep it in mind. I did snag the SQ, mainly because of the price and my curiosity about the club, but even if I fall in love with it I'd like the keep the Dymo around. As I said before I am pretty accurate with it, it just doesn't have the right flight/trajectory.

A decent shaft will most likely be more than this club (it's a steal at $80), but I think the 11.5 degree loft on my current driver is just as much at fault. I got great numbers when I was fitted for this club but since then I've had some lessons and my swing has improved greatly. My swing speed has also increased, and I've started hitting moon balls with this guy as a result. I think I'm going to give the SQ Tour a shot, hard to pass it up at this price. If nothing else, I may just need to try other shafts in this 9.5 degree head.

I'm not looking to go square with the driver, that's for sure. I hit my current driver straight or the occasional draw, but the ball flight is just too high. It's all carry and no roll, in fact there have been several times I've found my ball in the fairway a foot or so *behind* the crater it left. I'm looking for something that will give me a more boring flight that will have greater potential to roll out a bit, I just don't want it to be impossible for me to hit .

Nike SQ Tour owners, fill me in on this guy. I've run across a 9.5 degree with a stiff Fujikura 26.3 shaft that has piqued my interest. My driver swing speed is in the 95-105mph range, so the flex should be controllable for me. Is the face very open? Is this a reasonably forgiving club or will it eat me for lunch? Is that a decent shaft? I'm looking for a mid-high flight, ideally. I'm around a 15 handicap and hit my current driver pretty well, but the flight is very high and kills me if there's even a hint of wind. That's what I get for buying it in 11.5 degree loft and regular flex... thanks launch monitor

I can move my arms around all day without my hips budging in that position. But, if my arms are tension free and relaxed as they should be, they'll drop into the slot on their own when the lower body makes its move. Let's do a test similar to the one you've described. Take your backswing and stop at the top, or even halfway back. Now, just bump your left hip towards the target. If your arms are relaxed they should drop right in place.

I've heard it just the opposite in every lesson I've ever had. I've always been told that the lower body should start the downswing, which makes sense. You coil from the top down, so you should uncoil in reverse from the bottom up. The rotation/slide of the hips is what pulls the arms through. Gravity will drop your arms down into the slot if your arms are relaxed as they should be, and the turn of your hips will pull them around naturally. Watch any pro swing in slow motion, you'll see that the hips actually start rolling back around towards the target while the hands/arms are *finishing the backswing*. Their hips initiate the downswing, not the hands. This is a great video, note how his hips start moving while his arms are still settling at the top of the backswing:

I thought the e7+ was supposed to give a higher flight for more carry?

I never thought about looking at from the finish and working back, interesting tip. I had a few other tips in mind Friday, when I played a quick 9 after work. I had watched several of the "clemshaw" videos that day and realized I had tension in my arms throughout the swing trying to control them and stay on plane, and wasn't letting them loosely follow the body as I should. So, during my round Friday my thought was to slow down and let gravity and my body dictate. I definitely noticed some pretty significant differences. Less effort, better tempo, and more importantly straighter shots.

Thanks for the tip, I'll make sure and check my grip as well. I had been using a pretty strong grip before my lessons and weakened it some once he corrected my major swing flaws as I was hooking the ball pretty hard. I may have weakened it too much!

I think you may be on to something here. In my lessons the teacher has really stressed using a bump of the left hip towards the target to start the downswing. I think I may be turning that into more of a pure slide instead of uncoiling and rolling my left hip back around.

I've had a couple of lessons recently and I am not starting my down swing with my lower body, which also just so happened to correct my swing path. However, I've noticed that I don't seem to be releasing the club properly, most noticeably with the driver. If you look at the sole of my driver right now, face up, the tee marks point slightly to the left (7 o'clock or so) instead of straight down or even slightly to the right like I'd hope. That tells me I'm making contact with the face slightly open, and with my in-to-out swing path that is turning into a lot of pushes. Some occasionally fade a bit. Does anyone have a drill or two that help ingrain the feel of a proper release?

I actually wear mine constantly when I play, even when putting. I'll take it off while walking if it's hot to keep dry, but I am much more comfortable with a glove on when I have a club in my hand.

I'd recommend going in for a fitting if you can. I had a G10 and didn't hit it all that well, and when the shaft cracked I used that as an excuse to replace it. Turns out the G10 gave me worse numbers than anything else I hit, so you just can't be sure until you try a few out.

I've read that most tour players have their drivers at 44.5" to 45" in length. Compare that to many drivers hanging in your local shops that are nearing 46" length stock. I'm actually planning on cutting 1/2" or 3/4" off of my driver when I re-grip it this offseason.

There are four different drivers, Dymo and Dymo² (fixed) and then STR8 fit versions of both. Sounds like the OP is asking about the regular Dymo² (square, non-STR8 fit). I'm currently gaming the regular round Dymo as it won out by far in a driver fitting I had about a month ago. The square version was straighter, but was also 10-15 yards shorter for me. The round version was still extremely straight but I do have a slight draw with it.