eyevan

Titleist wedge = not user friendly. 60 degree + 4 degrees of bounce = cambels chunky soup. That being said Titliest makes great wedges (only if they would release the TVD) I'd be sporting an all Titty line up. I think that its very important to the same brand wedges especially if you have to ask. If you want to become a very strong wedge player I would recommend to get a SM56.14 & SM60.08 and get ready to practice. Also Callaway has a very similar shape, but the MD grooves are just insane

The best advise that I could give you as a beginner is to buy USED. Buy last season's latest and greatest, and save yourself some big bucks. One thing that you'll learn real quick is that it sucks to spend your hard earned cash on the latest stuff, and then 2 months later something newer comes out. As for breaking 100, the sooner you are able to consistently hit 200 + would help your cause greatly (i.e. hybrid / 3 wood / 460cc Driver). Nothing is worse than duffing it off the tee 40 yards multiple times a round. I'd try getting a used cleveland hybrid for like 30-40 bucks (23 degree). Also the great thing about buying used is that if you don't like it you can always resell it. (for no or little loss) Good luck

The best thing that I have done for my game has been adding another wedge into my bag (4 including PW). 130 in is where I make or break my round. So having added weapons only helps my score. I'm also not so much a feel player as I am a technical one, so having half wedges is not something that I look forward to. This is how I use my wedges: 48° PW for full shots and bump and runs (130 yards) 52° for 118 yards (full) or 100 yards (3/4) to roll to the back of the green. 56.14 Spin Mill 105 carry 3-5 yard spin / check (money club ) 60.11 MD grooves for 60 yards (one hop check) or 80 yards (full) I really believe in working backwards from green to get me 100 yards out, and I correct club accordingly to tee off. I'd also like to add that the MD grooves is just insane.

I am very familiar with the lefts, so I know your pain. Here's my advice to you: If your natural shot is a fade - Play it more center stance and don't step on it as much. But if you draw the ball - Getting the TP version (dual) would also help a lot. I've had great success with the Adams Idea Pro hybrid.

yup go with a mixed set it will be your best decision ever made

I would agree with the post above ^ . I think that the general rule is that anyone above a 10 handicap should not spend the money on a launch monitor session, because of their inability to produce a very consistent swing. However, some golf stores give you a fitting for free if you buy a driver from them. If that were the case I would totally look into doing that. Ebin, at a 30 handicap I would look into getting a driver with more loft and a weaker shaft (i.e. 12 degree driver w/ regular shaft) most higher handicaps error with less loft and too stiff of a shaft. Lessons is pretty much the only sure way of becoming more Consistent

I've seen this on other forums too. It just looks like a black 460cc version of the current 425 TP that Taylor Made is going to charge 800 bucks for. I'm not complaining when the SuperQuad comes out I'll be able to pick up a 425TP for dirt cheap.

MD grooves are crazy. If you are like me and new to pitching the ball at the flag instead of bumping it, then you need all of the help that you can get with respect to spin? This shot is surely a crowd pleaser and a life saver with not a lot of green to work with. But like everyone else has said MD grooves eat up balls worse than Spin Milled. Anything more than a ½ wedge shot and you’ll be picking out pieces of your pro V1 cover. I’ve been playing my Callaway wedge and added lead tape to bring up the swing weight. Now the weight feels good, but I am still thinking about adding an M grind and see how it plays.

I'm not arguing which brand is better. Yes its personal preference, but if I was putting with my PW during a round wouldn't you suggest that I play with a putter? (which I do do during pratice to work on my stroke) I think that it does matter, and I am only trying to give my perspective to a topic posted on this forum. Don’t get me wrong I am not bashing his choice of setup/brand by any means, but he is asking the question “I just wanted to take a poll on how good my bags contents were!!!” I think that the poll is open to more than just brand labels. At an 8 and a 5.4 handicap skill level is not an issue, and by now our clubs pretty much set the way we like them. It was a question to why he chooses not to play a wedge with a lot of spin, because I feel that he is only hindering his recovery ability. Maybe his 8 handicap could be a 4 handy with a good lob wedge? If most scoring is done within 100 yards shouldn’t >100 yards get some attention? I have always played a lob wedge in my setup: clevelands, vokeys (non Spin Milled), but only after I changed to Spin Milled and MD grooves have I ever had the running two hop check before. How many times have you short sided yourself on a green in the rough pin going down hill, or left yourself a 40-50 yard short to the pin with the wind to your back? I asked him this question because these are the types of situations that can equal boogie or worse real quick. I know that I’d hate to tackle these situations with just a 56 degree wedge in my hand. Plus the grinds on a 60 degree wedge like an M grind (w/ various degrees of bounce) is designed for various recovery shots. I mean you can hit a flop shot with a 9 iron, but would you when that's what a lob wedge is for?

Just wondering why you don't play a 60 degree super spin kind of wedge or even just a regular lob wedge? I don't know where I would be without 1

Easy answer... Go with what you know. Why not get a TRUSTY Titleist SM since you already play the same profile, and just get like a 56.10 maybe custom grind to add versatility. You can even strip the oil can finish off to get the same RAW look. Did I mention it that it lives up to its name Spin Milled? pitbull808's 54

The funny thing is that tour pros are going to complain that "it's too straight,” like there ever could be such a thing as too straight with a driver. I mean that is what they were saying with the Hibore, right? What I wonder is what happens when guys like Bubba Watson and JB Holmes get their hands on a club like this? (Good thing that Cobra & Ping don't have a square driver in the mix).

Hello fellow OCer... and welcome to the board. What normal track do you play at?

I'm a Mizzy guy myself and I have to say that I'm mot sold on the 67s at all. Like all other Mizzy MBs it PERFORMS with a ball flight in between the 33s and 32s, but the feel sucks. If the 33s feel like butta then the 67s feel like margarine, and if you are like me you play Mizunos for one of the softest feeling forging. It's supposed to be a hybrid of the 32s & 33s, but I think that they created a Frankenstein. I've played 33s for the past 6 years, and now have moved on to 32/60 combo and the 67s just don’t seem to fit in (they feel more like a Titleist forged club.) I’ll be the first one to admit it maybe me and my swing, but I’m just giving you my honest opinion.

http://thesandtrap.com/archives/club...ons_review.php From my experiences with the 695mb & 695cb, the CB version although it is a cavity back its still not very forgiving. The CB version pretty much plays like it's MB counterpart, its shape/ look from address/ and performance all scream Muscle Back. The main differences between the two are stronger lofts in the CB and a wider sole. You will also gain in forgiveness with the perimeter weighting from the CB (not much), but what you gain in forgiveness you'll lose in the BUTTA feeling. I think pretty much at a scratch handicap you can't really go wrong with either, and you should also enjoy the improvement in technology as well. happy shopping.

I actually think that you don't need either. I would actually go find a par 3 golf course and play, but if you want / need to get more clubs why not wedges? Learn how to chip / pitch / play out of bunkers just learn how to play before adding more problems to the mix. I'm sure that you've heard this before but the scoring is all about 100 yards in (so I'd focus on this). I mean if you have never played a round before, I think that you are getting a little ahead of yourself here. I know people who have played for well over 10 years and they still can't longer than a 5 iron with much consistency, and when you are ready to play par 4s (280 - 320 yard holes) I'd look into getting some CPR hybrids to match your set. But to answer your original question I think Fred Funk said in Golf Digest to hit the driver vs. 3 wood, because not only are you hitting it off a tee the head is so much bigger with a greater sweet spot that its actually easier to hit. (even with the added length)

oops I mean to flatten the bottom of his swing out

Not knowing what your 23 handicap is composed of (meaning the weakest part of your game,) I can only comment on my personal experience. When I was at the milestone that you are currently at, I was playing Titleist 981 irons w/ regular shafts (the oversized DCI gold) and playing bogey golf. I had just switched from Callaways because of the lack of feel (every shot went up high and straight,) and sometimes I thought that I had hit a GREAT shot only to see it come up 30 yards short. So after about a year with my 981s, I started drawing the ball (all the time) and sometimes draws would turn into hooks. But instead of taking a lesson, I thought that an equipment change to blades (thinking that the less offset) would straighten my ball out. Single digit handicaps play blades, and so I had to play blades too because that was where I wanted to be. I figured that with hard work I’d be able to hit anything, I’m young, I’m fit, I’m the bomb so bring it on. When I finally got my MP-33s and I was like “its time to become a single.” All I want to remember from the first day at the range is nothing. I never felt so embarrassed at the range as I did that day. Every shot either dribbled or had a mad crazy captain hook, and don’t forget the stingers. I think that I only managed like 5 decent shots out of a bucket, and that might be a little generous too. Oh I forgot to mention, that I had hit some MP-33s out of the demo bin a couple of different days at the range before deciding on purchasing a set. All of those test shots were nice and high with a slight fade tail fade (my DREAM ball flight). So fast forwarding 5 years later I’m at a 10 handicap due to my go for broke attitude and not being able to put it all together at the same time (drivng/putting/approach shots). Although my ball striking and iron play are the strongest part of my game, because I struggled with blades I’ve seen some parts of the golf course that weren’t intended to be seen. I ended up learning how to hit different shots (i.e. low cut shots, flying every iron over or under trees) which I believe makes you a stronger player. I still miss left, but the difference is I can make the ball fade now too (because I understand my swing a little better now). I’m still not a single, but that’s because I don’t count home courses. So back to your topic, No I don’t think that you should get those 735 at a 25 handicap unless you want to be back in the hundreds again. I think that the game is hard enough as is, and anything that we can do to make life easier and more enjoyable should be done. I do like how you have a DCI 6 iron to practice with, and I would expand on that. Maybe get a used or demo 695 MB 4 or 5 iron to practice with, and when you can hit that consistently maybe then consider getting a better players club. I’m not “doubting your game” and maybe you might be the exception, but from personal experience I’d error on the side of caution. Maybe think about getting the 755s or the 775s those would be a great starting point. Those clubs will suit you until you become a 10 or better (if you don’t have the lefts) they also have better shafts for slow smooth swings. DGR300 are heavy and have a low ball flight, don’t know if this is what you want but I’m sure it’s A LOT different than your graphite shafts. Hope this helps. FYI Jay Haas is killing people on the seniors tour with a set of 755s

I don't think that there is going to be anything with a regular swing that is going to be lower with a more boring flight than the driver into the wind. It's already the lowest amount of loft, and is designed to spin less and knuckle through the air. So a 503 isn't going to help you alone, but a 503 with a stinger type shot will help more. Either way you are going to have to learn a different shot for what you really are trying to do. Try moving the ball a little towards center stance (maybe tee it lower), and try not to flatten your swing out at the bottom (trying not to catch the ball with the up swing w/ the driver). A UGLY low running drive can still end up going 250 into the wind, but a 503 will only get you about 200-210ish into the same wind.

I'm a firm believer of buying irons that are a little better than you are. If you are a decent ball striker then I would recommend that you try the Titleist 735s, and the Mizuno MP60s. You can’t really go wrong with either one. As long as you stay will the Bigger Names in irons you’ll be happy. I think that it comes down to preference with appearance and feel, those are the things that will promote confidence which will then turn into hitting better shots. On a final note I hear very good things about the Taylor Made Rac LTs Have fun at the golf store and remember to bring your glove

thanks for the quick reply, but they were custom built from titleist and it looks like a little more work than I wanted to deal with.

I'll have to add weight even if I am just going back down to standard length? I just want to clubs to play the same as if I got with 6.0s to standard specs (i hope that makes sense)

I'm thinking about buying a set of Titleist 735 w/ 6.0 flighted. My question is "if i butt trim the shafts down half an inch will it make the shaft softer or stiffer (the set is + 0.5" over standard)" Thanks

I was wondering if someone could tell me which has sharper groove aka more bite (or are they all the same). I’m new to these improved super spin wedges and I just purchased a 60 degree wedge with PM grind and MD grooves. For the most part it’s not to my liking, but those grooves are making it hard not to like. It eats up range balls like crazy, so I can only imagine what they’ll do to a ProV1. So getting to the point I love the playability and feel of Vokeys, but REALLY love the new shot that this X tour wedge gives me. You know the 2 bounce check to a dead stop chip shot. The X tour feels lighter in the head and 11 degrees of bounce kind of bugs me when I open up the face. So I’m switching back to Vokeys I guess. Thanks in advance.

http://thesandtrap.com/archives/club...75cb_irons.php http://thesandtrap.com/archives/club...ons_review.php