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I've tried both...and boyyyy the Mizuno is amazing!!!! Considered the Dymo? It's pretty good...imho certainly much better than the Sumo. I picked the Dymo2 over the Mizuno.

You lose!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't Ping invent the following: 1. Cavity back irons 2. Heel-Toe weighting 3. 460cc Drivers 4. Cavity back blade putters ...personal bias for Nike and their invention or at least innovation of square head drivers!!!

No experience with shafts, but if the ball flight, spin, forgivness, stiffness is a good combination...then I don't see any reason to change? Depends what sort of shot you would like, and what the shaft is providing. If it doesn't match up then best bet would be to go to the pro shop and get fit for the perfect shaft!

Maybe compression level is too high for you? I stick with the softer balls myself...technique lacks a bit for me to really kill the better balls.

I quite like the Pinnacle Gold FX Soft...haven't tried the Srixon Soft Feel...although they will probably be the next box I buy...

Try a hybrid out. Also imho...you should work on the woods at the range, play safe on the course to reduce your handicap. I'm suffering 'cause of my long game too...can't hit the driver or long irons...I still used to try and hit them on the course, but duffed loads of shots. I'm fed up...so on the course I tee off with the 3-wood and play the 6-iron down. Constantly working on the driver/long irons on the range. Until I'm totally confident and consistent...I'm going to keep playing safe.

Hey, I would have to agree with the above, just been to loads of demo/fitting days recently and this is the general advice I've received from the pros: (Nothing personal meant...just my honest opinion) A: To know exactly what you need...get fitted. But there's a huge craze with the high-lofted drivers for beginners/GI drivers atm...since it creates more backspin, which reduces sidespin...hence, straighter shots. Also more airtime for those with slower swing speeds/imperfect technique...hence more distance. There are loads of articles online too...about how generally more people would benefit from higher lofted drivers than not. Keep that in mind when selecting a driver. (Also try out some square head drivers...though they may be more on the SGI side). As for stiff/regular...depends on swing speed and technique...since you're looking for GI, I think regular is best. B: I agree with above (consider a 4-wood)...although the 3-wood is probably the MOST important club in the bag today...arguably more important than even a driver, since it is such a versatile club. It is almost as long as a driver, whilst much more accurate. It can be used both off a tee and off the deck with relative ease. In fact, I would say with today's tech, a 5-wood is obsolete, the hybrid being it's much more effective replacement. My opinion...there's no replacement for a 3-wood. It's better than a 4-wood. C: My lowest iron is a 5-iron, I replaced the 4-iron with a 23* hybrid. Although I was advised by many to keep the 4-iron and add a 19/20* 3-hybrid as a 3-iron substitute, I decided to go with the 4-hybrid instead. Why? I'd rather have the ease of use of the 4...and sacrifice the little distance lost...and hit a SW rather than LW...or a PW rather than SW for the approach...basically one club higher lofted onto the green. At least I'm on the fairway...and haven't mishit the shot. Not much benefit to be had from having the 3-iron hitting ability in the bag these days...imho. I would actually add that a 3-iron is (almost) obsolete too...with many pros opting to leave it out and replace it with the hybrid. Hybrids, like 460cc drivers, cavity back irons...are a major tech breakthrough...goodbye long irons. D: Burner lofts are jacked up.

I've also heard of the Nike Prototype 380cc Dymo possibly going into production. I think the new Nike VR Driver is supposed to be

Hey I made a post on a similar thread (tweaked a little): Square driver 11* regular flex. I doubt you will grow out of that for a long time. Square Driver = v.high MOI...it's a SGI driver if you will...I doubt it's much shorter in distance than the comparable regular version...either way...I'd take the more frequently hit fairways over distance into the rough. 11* = check out some articles online...but high degree lofts seem to be the best thing for high-handicappers/new golfers. (a) High loft creates more backspin which reduces sidespine...hence, more fairways. (b) High loft provides more air time...good for those with slower swing speeds/imperfect swings...hence, more distance for less skilled/slower swinging golfers. I would go for 11* over 12* - mainly because you have a 15* 3-wood, so 11* may be the better option to keep a good gap in lofts. Also most manufacturers make drivers in 0.5* increments. But after 11.5* I've noticed a general jump to 13*...which may be a little on the high-side for a driver. Also you run the risk of "growing-out" of a 13* driver much quicker than you do an 11.5*...personally, when I improve, I would sooner change the shaft to a stiff version rather than the loft of my driver . I see 13* as a strong 3-wood for someone with for example an 8* or 9* driver...?? Regular flex = more distance and generally higher launch for slower swingers etc...I wouldn't switch to a stiff flex shaft unless you have a really high swing speed/v. good technique Best advice is to try out a (i) 460cc driver (ii) Square vs Regular head (iii) 11.5* and 12/13* my 2 cents...hope it helps!

Callaway 11* regular flex. I doubt you will grow out of that for a long time. Callaway Square Driver = v.high MOI...it's a SGI driver if you will...I doubt it's much shorter in distance than the FT-9...either way...I'd take the more frequently hit fairways over distance into the rough. 11* = check out some articles online...but high degree lofts seem to be the best thing for high-handicappers/new golfers. (a) High loft creates more backspin which reduces sidespine...hence, more fairways. (b) High loft provides more air time...good for those with slower swing speeds/imperfect swings...hence, more distance for less skilled/slower swinging golfers. Regular flex = more distance and generally higher launch for slower swingers etc...I wouldn't switch to a stiff flex shaft unless you have a really high swing speed/v. good technique my 2 cents...hope it helps!

Heard the AD333 is supposed to be good...as well as the infamous TopFlite Gamer...have yet to try either...

This is such an excellent driver!!! Probably my absolute favourite...more so even than my new and current Dymo2...and I love this thing to bits! Traditional shape...ridiculously forgiving...and super-hot face. One of the best looking drivers out there too...although my only slight criticism is the new colour scheme...would have preferred the mizuno white/blue theme to continue...but hey the orange looks good! This driver really has everything! You definitely have to try it out. I would say this driver is much better than the G15 & TM Burner!!

All good! I like the mixed set of irons...v.good idea!! Something I'll keep in mind if/when I grow out of my current set! I say "if" because I've got friends who shoot in the 70s and 80s and still use GI and SGI clubs! I've read a lot of people here with low handicaps still game their G-range Ping irons! Let's get to that handicap first...and then see huh?!

G15s are excellent clubs!! Tbh you could probably get the G10s or G5s much cheaper now that the 15s are out... X18s are harder to hit, but more workable than the Pings...however, both are highly reputed and quality sets.

Nike Dymo2...amazing club!

Nike Dymo2, TaylorMade Burner, Callaway Diablo, Callaway FT square version The most forgiving...hands down the square Nikes!

Irons = good idea. But between putter and wedges. The first thing I bought when building my new set was a PUTTER! This is probably the most important club in the bag...the most used...and the one that will have the biggest impact on your score...get something that gives you confidence and helps you sink those putts...watch your score drop! ...then get wedges or a set of irons...

Nike Sumo2 - square head is much more forgiving...as it has higher MOI. Titleist is generally speaking for lower handicappers...Nike IMHO would be a better option. I personally wouldn't spend the extra on the STR-8 fit...I bought the regular Dymo2 myself... It's also seriously worth getting lessons!

I hit the range for 2-3 hours a week. Play the course once a month - play more frequently during the summer, maybe every week/2weeks. Prof. Instruction once a month. I hit the range frequently to get accustomed to the swing change. I'm still a high-handicapper...have trouble with the long irons, so I think I will stick with the Sumos until I can at least confidently hit the 4 hybrid, 5 and 6 irons with good distance & accuracy. I will only change the hybrids/irons when I can achieve consistent ball striking with them. Not sure how long it will take to achieve that... p.s. How come you opted for the regular Dymo driver and 3-wood, as opposed to the Dymo2, and why the low lofted driver? Especially with 36 handicap. Which part of your game is suffering to cause that? My long game is what's majorly suffering...

Sabertooth I tell you...Sabertooth!!!!!!!!!!!

Apparently gripping down is better than cutting the shaft...since cutting the shaft changes the weight etc...

I would say a larger club face is more confidence-inspiring than thick/thin topline. I would say a thicker sole is more confidence-inspiring than a thick topline. I find the thick topline to be a bit ugly...(and makes me feel "noob") I like the size of my SGI irons(v.large club face)...although I would prefer a thinner topline - only in the looks dept. Clearly a thick topline is important in the functionality of a SGI iron...it's purpose is to create more weight around the perimeter of the club...to increase MOI...and so off-centre hits and more forgiving. Thin topline and thin sole...look amazing!! But thick topline and thick sole...hit amazing!!! lol Overall, I would like to see a nike cavity back club with a relatively thicker sole (for low CG), large cavity (for high MOI), and thin topline (for looks...and to see that massive slab o' sole on the bottom - like the big bertha '08 i-brids)...but that's entirely off-topic.

For getting out of bunkers I use the: Aim Left, Hit Right Tactic. Works really well! Also, I chip using a 7-iron...I find it more accurate than using a wedge. Use wedges when I'm a bit further out than chipping distance, or out of difficult lies...e.g. lob wedge flop shot, or within 100 yards sand wedge.