jsocas

Here are my distances, I just changed several clubs including my irons. This are the distances I've been having during this few warm days I've been able to go out and play. Will see what are they during the summer when weather is warmer and the ball flies a little bit more. Driver 9.5* - 275/280 FW 13.5* - 255/260 Hybrid 17* - 235/240 4i - 210/215 5i - 200/205 6i - 185/190 7i - 170/175 8i - 160/165 9i - 145/150 47* - 135 50* - 120/125 55* - 105/110 60* - 85/90 This are maximum distances, although in wedges I use 1/2 or 3/4 swing a lot for what I may use different clubs for distances under 120 yds depending where the pin is located.

I just bought a set of Mizuno MP 58 on ebay. What I made sure first is that the seller has a return policy. Then if the seller gives you the serial number in advance you can call Taylormade and check to which set that serial number belongs to. But once you get the clubs make sure you have them checked by a pro near by to confirm they are authentic before the return period is over. That is a little bit of work but certainly worht it. Good luck with your purchase!

Sorry about that, evidently I did not realize it was a repeat since I only watch a short part of it. Thanks for clarifying things.

Was watching the golf channel and saw that Steve was in Tiger's bag in the Travistock cup. Does anyone know what happened?

I recently bought a set 3-pw of Mizuno MP 58 at a little more than $400 from an ebay store with >99% feedback and more than 20K transactions. When I bid I confirmed that there was a return policy. So the first thing I did once I got them was to send Mizuno an e-mail with the serial number and the specs, they confirmed that the serial number was correct for that special order (2* upright and 1" long with a PX 6.0 shaft), then I took them to the Golf Tec store near my house. I was surprised when they told me that they nwere not going to sell any more clubs there because they couldn't copete with the internet prices. He said that big companies like Golfsmith, etc buy massive amounts of club sets and they sell a percentage of those in the store and the rest in ebay. In order to be able to compete they significantly reduce their prices but they still make a profit, although the margin is much less. So for those that say that if something is too good to be true, it is not true......it looks like with the economic crisis things are changing a little bit. Only thing I would say is that you have to be super cautious on ebay and make sure that there is a return policy or that the product is ebay protected. Happy Hollidays!!

Very interesting. I just bought on eBay a set of Mizuno MP 58 new from a very respected seller with more than 20K transactions and 99+ feedback. I checked the serial number for this custom set (1 inch long and 2degrees upward) and they said it was authentic. Custom sets have only numbers in the hosel, no letters. I got them for a little bit more than $400, so at first I was very suspicious. I took them to GolfTec and they told me that they were authentic. Even more, they told me that they are not going to sell clubs anymore because they were not making enough money because companies like Golfsmith will buy tons of sets and then sell them on ebay for $400-500 even if their profit is much less, but they still make some money. My two cents

thanks for the advice, I've been thinking about taking some tape off but I haven't figured out how to remove the grips without cutting them. If anyone here knows how to do it I'll appreciate any info. Thanks again.

Approx 4 weeks ago I decided to change the grips of my clubs for midsize GP New Decade. I have big hands and decided to put 3 rolls of tape under. It felt good to start with but when I went to the course I noticed that my natural draw with my irons was almost gone. I have to exagerate my rotation and close the face of the club significantly to get to hit a draw. I imagine that having larger grips somehow changed the way I grip the club I guess making me having trouble drawing the ball. So now most of my shots are straight and my miss is a fade. All this made me loose approx 5 to 10 yards per club. NOt sure if anyone here has experienced something similar.

Wow!!! That's more than wearing out, it is almost ripping appart!!! I haven't seen anything similar. If I would have been from OGIO I would have not only replace it but would have done so by giving you a different model. I wounder if there's anyting wrong with that model in particular. Definitely they should replace it again.

I'm curious if you happen to use pants with velcro in the back pockets. It happened to me with my Nike golf bag that I was feeling how the velcro got caught witht he bag for the whole round and then noticed how this wore the padded area badly. Since then I've used pants without velcro in the back pocket. Just wondering if you happen to have that problem too since I consider Ogio to make superb bags, but I might be wrong.

I don't think that therre are clubs that are overrated, but that there are brands that know how to sell their products better. The issue is that they happen to do excellent products still, that's why I don't consider Titleist or Taylormade to be overrated. What I do see is that other brands that make excellent clubs (Nike, Adams, Nickent and many others) do not get to hold the prices of their products. You can certainly obtain putters that are the same quality that the Scotty Cameron for half the price, but the Cameron' are still great putters. From my experience I do think that Nike irons are somewhat underrated. I've been playing the CCI Forged irons for more an 3 years now and After testing Mizuno and Titleist irons I can say that they are at the same level IMO. I've tested the adams forged, Wilson FG and others and they are all great products that perform almost as well as the others but their value comes down quite quickly compared to the previously mentioned brands.

From what you've said, it looks like your new PW is going as far or a little bit longer than your old one. Probably the best thing to do is to wait until you have a good feeling of what the real distance of your new PW is and then look to how fill the gap. I think it might be better for you just to bend your 52 to 50, that will give you a 120-125 yds club and then you can probably bring down the 56 to 55. This will decrease the bounce of your gw by 2* and the sw by 1* that shouldn't affect much the way they play unless they have very little bounce to start with. This setting will give you 5* of loft between your wedges. I've been in a similar situation with my setting until I decided for my current one.

I don't know if the 909 F3 would be the best option for wou since it has a deeper face and it will be a little more difficult to hit off the deck. I can tellmyou ,y experience with the 909 F2. By far is the best 3w I've had, I use it off the tee in short tight par 4 or whe ther is a bunker/hazzard in play with my driver but can still get 260 yds with it. Overall I think it would be a club that you should give it a try since you can get it very cheap on ebay. Good luck.

Thanks for your input, my question was aimed mainly to the fact that a lot of the guys that are selling this clubs/club heads are advertising as them having a hot melt technology or something like that. I can understand that the Tour issued heads have some loft/lie difference from the regular heads since they are custom made. Thanks again.

Just wanted to know if anyone know what the difference is between a Titleis 909 D2 tour issue head from the ones you buy at the stores. Is there anything different in the face (thinner, different components)?? I see that this heads are significantly more expensive on ebay than the regular heads. Thnaks.

I would recomend the F2, at least that's the one I got and I think is superb. The F3 would be more of a driving FW and not as forgiving from what I understand, I have not tried it though. Hope this helps.

I bought my Titleist 909 3 wood and 17* hybrid on ebay for total $220. They are both great clubs!!! Couldn't be happier with them. And if you are a 10 and improving you'll find them just right for your game. Another great hybrid I have used is the 2007 Taylormade TP rescue, has a smaller head thatn the 909 hybrid and it is very workable, and you'll find it very cheap on ebay. Hope this helps.

I've been playing the Nike CCI forged irons since I started approx 3 years ago. I think they will fit into the cavity back category, they are very similar to the Mizuno MP 58.

Does anyone know what shaft the following numbers for the Mizuno shaft optimizer would recommend. I tried it by myself and the computer system wwas not working. THe onlyt thing I have are the following numbers. Head speed 94 Tempo 4 Toe Down 4 Kick angle 6 Release factor 8 This was the average af at least 10-12 swings. Currently I'm playing irons with TT DG S300 and I'm very happy with the ball flight I get, but I'm interested in what this numbers recommend. Thanks in advance.

INterestingly I took the 4 iron out of my bag this year. I counted how many times I used it last year and it was no more than 4-5 times all season. I decided to put a 51* wedge in play for the gap between the PW and GW and I couldn't be happier. For my 210-220 yrs shots I just choke down on my 3 iron and fade it a little bit getting some yards off that club.

finally deicided towards the 909, I found a used 909 D3 9.5 degrees in excellent condition with a Fujikura Rombax 7Z08 stiff for $140 on ebay. This club is superb, excellent penetrating ball flight, super long. can't be happier. This combination is what I was after and it would have been around $500 to have it new in a 910 since is considered an upgrade shaft and they upcharge you for it. I'm not going to have the possibility to tweak it, but I think I can deal with it.

Gerald, I don't know what your distances are and gaps between clubs. What I've chosen for my final setup to go with 4 wedges, PW (47), Nike SV tour 52/10 bent to 51/9, BV 54/8 bent to 55/9 and BV 60/04. I chose this setup more than anything for full shots within 130 yds. I have not had a problem with the bounce of 9 degrees in fluffly sand.

This is my current setup. I found that last year I hit the 4 iron approx 2 to 3 times in 30-40 rounds. I can cover the 210-215 yds shots either chocking in the 3i or giving a rip to the 5i. I find that taking full swing shots inside the 130 yard rang is much more useful for me. I bent the 52 to 51 and the 54 to 55 to have a 4 degree difference between my PW and GW and GW to SW and give me the appropiate distances. I use my 60 degree for pretty much all shots around the green except for long bunker shots. SUMO2 Driver 9.5° Proforce V2 S -(270-280 yds) 909 F2 #3 13.5° Blueboard S- (260 yrs) 909 H 17° Voodoo S (245 yds), CCI Forged 3i and 5i to PW TT DG S (225-205-190-175-165-150-135 yds) SV Tour 51°/9 (125) 55°/9(110) 60°/4(95). I wonder if anyone else using 4 wedges is getting the 4 iron out. One option for me would be to bend the 4 iron from 24 degrees to either 23 or 22, but I don't want to screw up the iron set because sometimes I play short courses in which I get the 3W out and put the 4 iron back in play.

I think last season I hit my 4 iron once or twice the most. There are not that many par 3's in the 210-215 yards out here and I can get away by chocking down on the 3i most of the times. For most of the courses I play, I took it out and replace it with a 56 wedge. Although this year I'm starting to play a 21* hybrid instead of my 3i and I'm putting the 4i back in play for those moments that I have a long shot that I have to shape. So the 56 is going to be in the garage most likely.

I think the easiest way is to use one of the groove sharpeners that you can buy on ebay. I don;t know of any golfstores that can do this. I'll ask the golf pro and see.