delav

Just found your more recent swing on this site. Not bad, but certainly a few elements that will affect consistency. I'll comment on that thread, but a true DTL (down the line) video would help.

You're a 6 index and can't seem to hit your driver straight? The only thing I find harder to believe than a driving fixing your accuracy is that your current instructor can't help. Find a new instructor, or post a video of your swing in the 'member swings' forum. Lots of good players on here.

Great advice. I've taken steps to smooth out my swing and focus more on body turn, less on arms and hand action. I've lost a club in distance, but picked up a ton of accuracy and control. Currently hitting a 9 iron 150 rather than the 160 - 165. Able to trust that distance more often now.

You can't play anymore due to illness, but you want swing advice? This doesn't make a ton of sense.

When you get a chance, a caddy view (front) video would be helpful. It looks like there is a big opportunity to improve your weight transfer (hip bump) and impact position. If you're hitting pushes and hooks, chances are you are flipping through impact. Working on moving your hips toward your target and establishing strong forward shaft lean at impact would like be a good place to start. A front video would help to confirm. Look for the threads on "hip slide" and "flying wedge."

I'm a long ways from a tour player... but have had enough clubs and grips to figure out what I like. I just regripped my irons to in the basement this spring to test this out. My clubs have 2 extra wraps under the whole grip, and 5 total wraps under the right hand. I've normally played midsize with 3 wraps (large hands), but like this quite a bit better. The extra width on the lower part of the grip improves feel on shorter clubs and finesse shots. So far, I like it quite a bit. Cheap and easy to do, as well.

The smaller heads may offer a bit more control to shape shots, but I've found that the larger modern drivers offer move forgiveness on off-center hits. The larger clubheads allow engineers to increase MOI, which helps reduce side-spin on off-center hits. Going from my TM R7 TP (425cc) to my R11 TP (440cc) has improved distance and fairways hit. The size of the head is likely much less of a factor than the shape and weighting.

If you watch both Tiger and Rory closely, you'll notice the connection between their left bicep and their chest. This results in lower hands (Tiger especially), as well as a larger shoulder turn, earlier in the backswing. Notice your shoulder turn at 3/4 back (right shoulder in particular) against theirs. This lifting of your hands/arms reduces lessens this turn. Notice the orange circles below. This is the starting position of each players' hands. You can also notice the pressure at the top of the swing... If you were wearing a lighter colored shirt, it would be more apparent.

Decreasing the loft opens the face. Rotate the ASP to "C" for closed, and make sure the heavier weight is in the heel.

Majorchamp - I'm a bit late to this thread, but I remember following your swing last year and being really impressed with the timing and fluid nature of your swing. In the most recent videos, I'm noticing a few things that stand out (many of which are likely not new): Hands moving outside on takeaway Separation of left bicep and chest Lifting of arms on backswing Shallow shoulder plane "Slowness" of hands during downswing All of these facts likely can and do impact your ability to generate and maintain lag into impact. My swing is a long ways from where I'd like it to be, but I have addressed many of these issues (including flipping) within the last year. Lifting your hands and losing pressure with your chest will get your arms and core out of sequence during the swing. Working specifically on getting my hands "deeper" (a commonly used term here that I was once against), has really helped me keep the handle in front of my body and significantly improved my swing plane, ball striking and accuracy (look ma, no more hooks!) Please find my swing thread if you want to see how bad things looked. Here are a few images of what I am working on, and how these positions are different from those in your video above: Takeaway - Notice the shoulder plane and the lifting of the hands from the plane at address (teal). You should feel pressure on the shaft in your right thumb and index here... Halfway back - Notice the height of your hands as your arms continue to lift... shoulders are still on the same plane. Top of Backswing - Notice the height of your left hand and the gap between your bicep and your chest. Still a good shoulder turn (in front on view), but a bit disconnected here. Notice we're both still on the same approximate shoulder plane. Downswing - Notice the height of your hands, the position of your right elbow and the angle of the shaft... Eric mentioned on page 5 (in 9/2010) to move your hands to the ground faster... this still very much applies. ***Don't mind the awful curve of my back here... This video really helped me realize that I need to keep my "butt against the wall" and give myself room to turn/extend through ball.*** Again... I'm not a teaching pro, and my index is currently around yours, but I've struggled with very similar issues. If this sounds awful, you have every reason to ignore these comments. I do have my own goals this year (footwork, hips, "ass position," etc), but I think that some of the things I've had success with may really help you organically achieve the lag and impact you are after: Maintain or increase pressure between your left bicep and chest during backswing Keep your hands low and work them inside (near right thigh) on your takeaway Get hands closer to above/beyond right shoulder at top Keep clubhead outside of hands on takeaway Move hands rapidly toward ground as you move from the top Best of luck.

I agree with Valleygolfer. Hogan's book is a good start, and will compliment the athleticism and flexibility you've got. Getting your weight to move toward the target during the downswing will be a game-changer for you.

I believe it was explained previously that most digital camera sensors process the image top to bottom. The time differential between this capture process allows the club to travel downward while the senor is capturing the image. The more lag that is generated, the faster the clubhead is moving, the goofier the picture. There is an similar image of Tiger out on the interwebs that is equally funny looking.

I'd be very surprised it it's that much better than the 910D2. With that said, the R11 I am playing now is accurate and forgiving... almost to a fault.

I'd be almost certain this is nothing to worry about. The sole is likely thick here to achieve COG, and I'd imagine this type of thing would be a "failure mode" consideration during the design phase if the engineers wanted to reduce thickness in this area to begin with.

I've struggled with balance and recently, shanks as well. One thing that Erik had mentioned at one point was the "tuck/clench" my butt through and after impact. I've found that this helps me from coming "off of the wall" (see below) and transition strongly into a solid left heel post. For me, this has improve my swing path on the way down and greatly reduced the "stuck" position that often leads to shanks. Give it a try. Visualize tucking your pelvis under your torso as you move into the ball. From address, I've found it helpful to feel a slight contraction in my lower abdominal as well. Good luck!

Where are you missing the green, and what type of approach shots do you see most often? If your GIR is at 30% with game-improvement irons, I don't think a set of $1,000 players cavity irons are the ticket.

I think the yardage gain is the combination of several factors. I had the clubhead on my R7 setup fairly heavy as well. With the additional length of the R11 (approximately 0.50"), a slightly lighter shaft and a lighter and more areodynamic head, this club feels just a bit easier to swing faster. No doubt it's been a big seller, which was primarily a deterrent from considering it as TM gets quite a bit of flack for excessive marketing and hype, not to mention ridiculously short PLCs. Looks like all the energy drinks feeding SolidWorks engineers is paying off.

This review may be old hat to many club-hos, but I'm a late adopter of technology (as my golf bag will show). Because of this, I've been dragging my feet replacing what I felt was a very good driver; my 2006 R7 425 TP. Plus, I never really cared for the feel of the R9 clubs. My R7 TP was fit with a Motore F1 75x shaft and have loved the performance of this driver when I was swinging well. I've hit it against most new clubs, and had yet to find anything that jumped out at me in terms of launch numbers and overall performance. With a year-end bonus burning a hole in my bank account, I figured a new driver wouldn't get me in too much trouble with spousal unit, and I liked the idea of picking up 5-10 yards off the tee while potentially hitting more fairways (as all new drivers claim). I'm finally playing a 'modern' driver and am very, very happy about the change... despite being another fanboy swinging a white head on the course. The Search After hitting the Octane & RAZR Hawk Tour, Superfast 2.0, 910 D3/D2, Cleveland 310, and several Adam's clubs, I began to see what I was leaving out on the course with my old club. Differences in launch numbers were minimal, but dispersion was significantly improved with many of the new clubs. My best balls came from the Octane Tour, with the PX 6.0 shaft and a 9.5 degree head, which I almost bought. I loved the feel of this club, but felt that as my swing continues to change, I may want the ability to fine-tune setup parameters. I didn't like the look of a white head when TM launched the Superfast 2.0 and R11, and I still didn't like it when I was hitting the R11. However, after the fitter fit me for a shaft and began fine-tuning the R11, I began to like the club more and more. The feel of the ball off the face is very solid feeling, much different than previous TM drivers. After 20-30 balls and several setting revisions, I had picked up 4 mph in clubhead speed and around 7 mph in ball speed. Adding to that, my dispersion was all within 2 yards left to 10 yards right of center (set up for a fade). My end stats were around 275 yards carry and 290 total yards, about 10/15 over my current club with a fraction of the dispersion. The Buy I purchased the R11TP with the TP Fujikura Blur 60X shaft, and have had 2 rounds and 3 range sessions with the club. I've taken left-side hazards out of my mind off the tee, and seem to hit this driver better every time I play. As dumb as it looks, I have no doubt the white head does inspire confidence at address. Real world results seem better than the launch data, with most drives around 15-20 yards farther than my old club on a course I know very well. The fact that I've picked up a few yards and narrowed my dispersion with the R11 makes golf very, very fun. I'm still getting the setup dialed in, but I'm ready to admit that I now know what I've been missing playing an outdated driver. Cheers!

Wow... look at the finish on the neck. Yikes. I hope it was cheap.

I'd make sure you are keeping stats, and concentrate 70-80% of your practice time to short game. The ability (or inability) to get up and down is where my strokes seem to be determined.

Search for 'Flying Wedge' and read as much as you can :)

Price drop to $90! Someone pick this up!

Price dropped to $100. Heading to eBay soon.

I understand your dilemma, and it's these types of shots and skills that will really help your game progress. Learning to hit shots that float and sit, versus those that stay down and spin will benefit your skills from any distance. I'd grab a few large buckets of range balls and dedicate a few days to learning how to play a variety of shots with your current wedges. Pick a target short of your full shot, and develop confidence hitting different wedges high and low, as well as left-to-right and right-to-left into these distances. If you want to save some money, grab a shag bag and find a practice area where you can do this for free, using a bucket as your target and pacing these distance.

I am currently playing a set of wedges with lofts similar to what you are thinking (48, 52 and 58). I dropped by 56 and 60 and consolidated these shots with a 58 degree wedge. I like the 58, and can play almost all of the shots I want without the extra wedge. I'd suggest keeping the 48* G (really PW loft) and finding a set of 52/53 and 57/58 wedges with the bounce and shape that fits your eye. Also... don't forget about the importance of having lies checked and adjusted with these clubs.