Gebus

If your handicap is really 9 you should have at least one low bounce wedge in your bag for those fancy shots

One thing to keep in mind is that if you have an arcing putting stroke (open to closed through impact) with a heavy putter you will tend to be a little open at impact, so a blade might be a better idea, while on the other hand if you have the straight back and straight through stroke a heavier putter will tend to keep the putter face straight. This is not a perfect system just a common phenomenon. I have a straight back straight through stroke and rock a blade putter while my friend has a big arc stroke with a big heavy mallet and we both putt quite acceptably.

Here is a tricky one I have recently purchased the Mizuno MP titanium 3 Wood. It comes with a Fubuki shaft (made for Mizuno) and I absolutely love the shaft. My question is has anyone played (played not tried please) the MP titanium and played with a real Fubuki shaft. If you have are they comparable? If they are I'd definitely would consider putting a Fubuki in one of my drivers.

It depends on the one you go to, the one I am talking about is at a fairly new store and the simulator is much different from any of the other ones that I have seen...

Come on that wasn't cool... I understand where you are coming from, For a more "athletic fit" check Puma, Fila, J Lindeberg (JL) some Nike and some Addidas. Stay away from FootJoy, Izod (though they make a few okay ones), Greg Norman etc. Really check puma though, I realize you dont want fancy designs (and that is what Puma does) but they are really high quality and they fit great.

Most people are going to tell you that their driver is the best one, but it usually isn't true. If you tried my 907 you'd probably hate it but it works for me. One thing I can tell you is that I also played a r5, and a few new comparable models are the burner family, the cobra S2, the diablo edge like KD Epic said (though the stock shaft is meh). My suggestion will always be go get fitted by a professional, if that isn't possible, go to a major golf store and hit all the drivers, don't go by what the simulators say, go by what you feel (you should know when its a good drive).

Most of the simulator programs that the stores use can be screwed with... There are two golftowns (like golf galaxy but Canadian) where I live, you could go to one hit a driver 250 then go to the other and hit 300. I am friends with some one who works there, watch them touch the screen while they setup the simulator, there is often a scale that they touch, the higher on the scale the straighter and farther the drives will be. Quick funny story for those interested. I go to my local golf town (one that really likes to screw with the results, and the one my friend works at, and one I know how to put the simulator back to normal) to try out equipment, not to buy just to try (you know you do it too). I work at a local golf course's pro-shop so I do sell a bit of equipment, properly I might add, and I sold this guy a S91 driver last year, trust me it was the right driver for him 12.5* launch angle 3400 rpm (I record all the fittings on my computer) perfect ball flight and very acceptably consistent for his handicap. As I walk in the store I see the guy trying out a driver in the simulator, I wait for the sales rep to walk away to ask him what he was doing, and he says "look this rapture V2 goes 60 yds further than that S91 YOU sold me and it is so much straighter, you screwed me." My response was taking the driver out of his hands and hitting one into the simulator "Carry 343 356 total" (I hit 280 max on a really good drive), the guy had seen me hit balls at our range before and he knows I can't actually hit it that far... The guy very quickly walked out of the store, he know only buys equipment from me (which is good because he is an equipment nut, he changes sets more often than he plays).

Its really just preference, when choosing a putter just make sure it lies flat on the ground during your swing, I see enough odysee 2 ball putters set up almost 45* upright it makes me want to puke...

I really dont want to sound like a docuhe, but is it really worth $700, if your going to walk pushing a cart is really not that difficult, I push and I play some erratic mountain-y courses and never really had a problem, yes I realize I am 21 but if you are unable to push a cart it is hard to believe you still want to walk...

First thing you should never take a full swing with a wedge, your asking for trouble if you do. For a 100 yard club if you hit you pitching wedge 120 like you said it sounds like an easy pitching wedge is that club. For the rest of the wedges you have room for three wedges. I think wedge sets should start with the most lofted wedge down, so lets say you want a 60* that means if you have a 48* Pitching wedge you have 12* to fill with two wedges so a 52* and 56* should workout just fine. You said in one of your posts that you like to open the face a 56* wedge to make a lob wedge, you shouldn't get into that habit your making an easy shot with a lob wedge complicated... Lastly go with the old grooves, c'mon golf isn't an easy game take all the help you can get!

You have to have grips are right for your hands maybe the guy before you had some massive paws I also change grips twice a season (on Canada day and Halloween, literally) but I play alot. I disagree with delav, I use new decade multi compound on everything except my wedges, my wedges have a bulkier tour velvet cord grip because I like the "touch" (hard to describe) better.

Epoch tees for me 3.25 inch, I like ZFs too but the get too flexible sometimes...

In Canada (CPGA) you need to shoot 150 or less over 36 holes calculated to an average rating and slope, along with passing the written tests. But that is just to get the card there are many levels to go after that...

I second that!!! I am a very moody player... my friends always tell me forget the score think about the shot in front of you.

If you do switch down to a regular shaft and if you have alot of club head speed make sure you pick a shaft with a low torque or you might have problems (but I am sure your fitter will figure that our).

You could also try AP2s it wont be a tough transistion from your cg4s (having played them both)

Would do the Scottland/Ireland tour, St Andrews, Turnaberry, Ballybunion etc.

I hear you, I'm 21 now, last year I played a country club course just outside of Montreal. Its a very "upscale" course (it really isn't it's just a bunch of snobs) but I have a friend who works their and she was able to get me a tee time. I get there and get nothing but attitude from every single person there. I get to the tee and I am matched with a man and his wife. They look at me (I was dressed to the nines, I always am on the course, I am pretty sure I was wearing a FootJoy polo with nice pants, everything matching etc.) and tell the starter that they would rather not play with a "non-member" the starter gives me another disgusted look and tells them that he can't do anything. I shut him up when I went eagle-birdie-birdie on the first three holes though :). That's why I like public courses. They dont care if your rich or poor they treat everybody the same (atleast the ones I go to).

Try the Cobra S2 it is the most forgiving of off centre hits of all the drivers I've tried this year ( I've pretty much tried them all...)

It is really nice to see a happy story on the trap about customer service... we seem to get alot of unhappy stories. The best customer service story I have was not with a golf company bit with a course, I cant remember for the life of me what the name of it was but it wasn't cheap... I went to visit some family in Virginia for March break a few years ago (before I took golf really seriously) and we decided we would go golfing on one of the days. On the day of our tee time it was snowing (lightly), but we're Canadian so that doesn't really stop us. When we showed up the girl in the shop gave us this bewildered look we just said "we're Canadian, its okay". They let us play 36 holes for free with carts(I am pretty sure green fees were in the 300$ range), lunch was free and my dad complained about losing some balls with the conditions so they gave us a box of Titleists (not ProVs but still). They even sent out the cart girl twice each round (she didn't like us very much). The took a picture of us in the snow at the first tee and put it in the owners office... They thought we were nuts.

In general the lighter the faster but also a bit tougher to control. I prefer lighter shafts in all my clubs except irons and wedges because I could use the little bit of extra speed and don't have trouble controlling them

You should look into getting a lower kick point shaft, assuming that you hit low due to your angle of attack/the way you load up the shaft. If you go with a regular shaft with a 103MPH swing you might start having problems. Before choosing a shaft I would suggest getting on a good trackman device and seeing if you hit low because you come in very shallow or if the club comes in late. If you come in shallow get a higher loft or a higher loft with a combination of a lower kickpoint shaft. If you come in at a normal-ish angle (which I doubt by reading your experiance) get a low kick point shaft like: Fujikura SpeederVC 6.0 Fujikura ZCOM 6 Matrix Ozik Xcon 5 (actually not a great shaft...) Mitsubishi Diamana Red Mutsubishi Fubuki tour 63 UST proforce Axivcore tour (what a stupid name...) They are all a bit on the expensive side but welcome to shafts.

Download Scorecard 2, you support Erik and it does all the calculations you need.

For someone with not alot of experience it seems like your picking up on the intangibles that most golfers struggle with in the begging, so high five keep up the good work!

Trust me you really wont notice a difference, my only suggestion is if your going to buy wedges buy them this year...