• Announcements

    • iacas

      Create a Signature!   02/05/2016

      Everyone, go here and edit your signature this week: http://thesandtrap.com/settings/signature/.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
peiserma

Driver shaft not fitting in hosel

7 posts in this topic

Hi everyone,

I've been reading the forums for a while, and finally decided to join. This is my first post on TST.

I have wanted to try swapping shafts or building a club for a while. It seemed like it would be fun. So the other day, I found a broken driver that someone had stuffed in a trashcan on the course. That's a free driver head to me, so i figured this is the sign I've been waiting for.

I cleaned out most of the broken shaft, measured the ID of the hosel and ordered a 0.350 shaft based on the measurement.I also ordered the sanding mandrel that golfworks sells to clean out the remaining fiberglass at the very bottom of the hosel. Everything's looking pretty easy until I dry-fit the shaft, and discovered that the shaft won't go in all the way. Its maybe a half-inch away from bottoming out.

So I called up golfworks to order a new 0.335 shaft and ferrules. They issued me an RMA on the 0.35 shaft. I planned on returning the old shaft in the box the new shaft came. But when I dry-fitted the 0.335 shaft, its way too loose (in my inexperienced opinion, of course). By way too loose, i mean it wiggles like a loose tooth. More actually. I can definitely move the shaft off-center in relation to the hosel. My calipers can't extend all the way to the bottom of the hosel, so I can;t easily measure the hosel ID.

I could use some help figuring out the next steps. First, I had assumed that the shaft would be fairly snug to make the shaft relatively easy to align. The fact that the shaft is tapered would provide the necessary room for the epoxy. Are these assumptions correct? How much play/clearance should there be?

Second, how would you guys recommend I proceed? Sand the 0.35 shaft down a little? The difference between 0.35 and 0.335 is only 0.015. Since the 0.335 fits so sloppy, it can't require that much material to be removed. How much can a graphite shaft be sanded? Or would it be better to get some glass beads and use the 0.335 shaft?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

If it helps, the head is an Adams GT3. The shaft is an Aldila NVS. I'm not worried about the perfect shaft/driver combo, I really just wanted to do this.

Thanks.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Want to get rid of this advertisement? Sign up (or log in) today! It's free!

Hi everyone,

I've been reading the forums for a while, and finally decided to join. This is my first post on TST.

I have wanted to try swapping shafts or building a club for a while. It seemed like it would be fun. So the other day, I found a broken driver that someone had stuffed in a trashcan on the course. That's a free driver head to me, so i figured this is the sign I've been waiting for.

I cleaned out most of the broken shaft, measured the ID of the hosel and ordered a 0.350 shaft based on the measurement.I also ordered the sanding mandrel that golfworks sells to clean out the remaining fiberglass at the very bottom of the hosel. Everything's looking pretty easy until I dry-fit the shaft, and discovered that the shaft won't go in all the way. Its maybe a half-inch away from bottoming out.

So I called up golfworks to order a new 0.335 shaft and ferrules. They issued me an RMA on the 0.35 shaft. I planned on returning the old shaft in the box the new shaft came. But when I dry-fitted the 0.335 shaft, its way too loose (in my inexperienced opinion, of course). By way too loose, i mean it wiggles like a loose tooth. More actually. I can definitely move the shaft off-center in relation to the hosel. My calipers can't extend all the way to the bottom of the hosel, so I can;t easily measure the hosel ID.

I could use some help figuring out the next steps. First, I had assumed that the shaft would be fairly snug to make the shaft relatively easy to align. The fact that the shaft is tapered would provide the necessary room for the epoxy. Are these assumptions correct? How much play/clearance should there be?

Second, how would you guys recommend I proceed? Sand the 0.35 shaft down a little? The difference between 0.35 and 0.335 is only 0.015. Since the 0.335 fits so sloppy, it can't require that much material to be removed. How much can a graphite shaft be sanded? Or would it be better to get some glass beads and use the 0.335 shaft?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

If it helps, the head is an Adams GT3. The shaft is an Aldila NVS. I'm not worried about the perfect shaft/driver combo, I really just wanted to do this.

Thanks.

First of all welcome to TST.

Was the 0.335 shaft fit all the way down? Most drivers use a 0.335, and the club makers usually put a shim to make the fit snug. It fits into the hosel.

http://www.golf-topia.com/golf-club-tip-sizes-s/65.htm

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I was removing graphite from all the way down into the bore, so yes. I believe the original shaft was installed all the way down.

Who sells the shims you mentioned? I've seen brass shims for 0.335 to 0.35, but i don't think that's what you had in mind.

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was removing graphite from all the way down into the bore, so yes. I believe the original shaft was installed all the way down.

Who sells the shims you mentioned? I've seen brass shims for 0.335 to 0.35, but i don't think that's what you had in mind.

Yes, they are. You need to look around. Golfworks will have them. You might have to do some customization. Also be careful gluing it, there is a coating that shears off pretty easily. Sand it off before gluing.

http://www.golfworks.com/default.asp?gclid=CNGCzefwn74CFc5ffgod_gkASA

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Thanks Lihu. That helped. You got me thinking about shims, I used some tape on the 0.335 shaft as a shim. This allowed me to determine that the ID of the hosel was 0.345. Since i doubt that anyone would manufacture this size ID on purpose, I assumed that I simply failed to remove all the old epoxy. I went back and re-sanded the ID. Then the 0.35 shaft fit perfectly. I finished assembly over the weekend and I took it to the range on Monday. I'm happy to report the club head did not fall off ;-)

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Lihu. That helped. You got me thinking about shims, I used some tape on the 0.335 shaft as a shim. This allowed me to determine that the ID of the hosel was 0.345. Since i doubt that anyone would manufacture this size ID on purpose, I assumed that I simply failed to remove all the old epoxy. I went back and re-sanded the ID. Then the 0.35 shaft fit perfectly. I finished assembly over the weekend and I took it to the range on Monday. I'm happy to report the club head did not fall off


Nice, how does the club perform?

0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Distance-wise, marginally longer than my current club (Callaway Diablo), but i did not measure. The Diablo has a slightly closed face, the GT3 does not. So all initial shots went right. Have to learn this club before I can make a valid comparison. Also have not adjusted the swing weight yet, and I am not sure I need to. Despite being 1.5" shorter than the Diablo, swinging it does not feel wierd. It feels faster, but that is probably because i was swinging with my arms too much. The sound on impact is a dead thud, while the Callaway makes a little "clink"
0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0



  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • 2016 TST Partners

    GAME Golf
    PING Golf
    Lowest Score Wins
  • Posts

    • TST Fantasy Golf 2016
      I had Jimmy Walker in, and pulled him since he didn't score well the first two rounds. Then he fires a 63 today. Damn.
    • Most Stressful Shot for You
      For me, it's a long carry of any kind, over water, over a cross hazard and somewhat less stressful over a fairway bunker. My miss is hardly ever too long, but it's short (right of course as a righty, but also left) aplenty. My second most stressful shot is with a severe downhill lie, especially when height is needed, to carry water, carry a bunker, stop it quickly to a green sloping away from me, etc... The first tee jitters exist too, depending on the event, competition or not, known course or not, known people or not, but after feeling completely outside my body and nearly missing the ball entirely during my first sanctioned NCGA tourney (right after they call my name), it never has been that bad and actually feels less stressful than those first two types of shot.
    • Club face angles
      No way to adjust it but you can grip the club so the face is square or open at address. The closed face angle doesn't usually effect things unless you sole it prior to gripping.
    • My Swing (Zooz)
      Glad to hear it bud! The driver is a longer club, so it is not possible to keep it underneath you as much. In golf terms they say it is a wider and slightly flatter swing. Essentially the bucket will swing more around the body, while still being connected. The basic concept is since the face has less loft, and the ball is on a tee, you need more of a sweeping motion. Don't help it or scoop up with the wrists, this can also cause a high slice. Trust the club to get the ball in the air just by contact. The driver sweeps up on the teed ball. The irons can be very descending and still work great. Without video I cannot say how descending of a blow you were achieving. It is very difficult for some people to make the two different swings but I find it can also be very easy. The tough part is understanding that this new upward sweeping swing is still a swing. It is not a lift. It still involves turn, weight transfer, acceleration. Almost all pros teach that you should just adjust your setup for driver as follows, and let the adjustments do the work for you:  First, it helps a lot if the ball is toward the front of the stance, just inside the heel of the front foot (foot closer to the target). Next you want to tilt your shoulders so the front shoulder is slightly higher and pointing up, to guide the path of the club upwards. Setting up with your shoulders slightly closed to the target of your feet and minds eye (in your case shoulders pointed a little left of target), can help too. Most importantly everything has to fire a little bit upward, the hips and shoulders. Basically it is like throwing the bucket over an obstacle, the obstacle would be like a small animal. Everything has to aim up a little more (but not fall back). Always complete the swing and weight shift 100%. Remember you can let the longer clubs be a little less underneath you. You will feel with driver as if you are swinging more around the ball as opposed to down into it. Sometimes I have people make the set up adjustments and they lose it during the swing. You have to keep the adjustments until just after impact. The best way is to get an understanding in the mind (as always) of how the club is shaped differently and how best to use it. The pros are very good at having the hands in front of the ball at impact with driver, but swinging upwards as well. This gives the ball more height and less spin. Most amatuers have the hands too far behind the ball, and don't swing up enough. Stay confident with driver and be positive. There are millions of golfers that will tell you they "cannot hit driver." Many leave it at home, or hit a slice and then say, "see I told you!" Don't be like this. Tell yourself you will be a great driver of the ball once you completely grasp it. People who beat themselves in their head have no chance of hitting a good drive. Always give yourself a chance. Also most people like this have an ingrained descending swing tbat only works with irons. The problem is on windy days the can't shallow out the plane to hit low shots. They certainly can't handle long courses. I think of the driver as my most accurate club. It's such a long club with a big sweet spot I can basically bunt it 200 yards down the fairway if I had to. Don't try to over do it. You will find more joy in hitting a low solid drive that carries 200 and rolls another 50 in the fairway, then one that carries 260 all over the place.
    • My Swing (coop6)
      yea, nice edit.  lol. seriously though, nice swing too! 
  • TST Blog Entries

  • Images

  • Today's Birthdays

  • Blog Entries