Jump to content
IGNORED

Bermuda Blend Greens vs. Bent Blend Greens


Note: This thread is 4066 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Recommended Posts

I'm playing in a tournament this Friday and Saturday (well, I'm supposed to play, the snow storm may cancel this).  The course that the tournament is going to be at is different from most of the courses in the area that I live/play in because it has a Bermuda blend for the fairways and Bermuda greens.  I've played the course twice before, once back in October of last year and then I also played a "recon" round last Saturday afternoon.

Most courses in the area including my country club have bent grass for the greens and then some other kind of blend for the fairways (rye?).  I'm looking for any suggestions or things to be careful of while I'm playing in this tournament.  When my playing partner and I played the recon round on Saturday, it was cold (33 degrees) and snowing (flurries).  I noticed that the greens especially are much harder in setup (many more undulations and things like that).  The dormant bermuda greens seemed fast compared to the bent greens that I am used to playing on.

I also noticed a big difference on the fairways.  I'm pretty sure that they are a bermuda blend too, you could tell that the grass was dormant because of the color (or lack thereof) which leads me to believe that it's a bermuda blend.  The fairways seemed like carpet compared to the fairways that I am used to playing.  It seemed to me that I just had to make sure to hit down on the ball even more so than on the fairways that I am used to playing.

Any insights on this?  Your help is appreciated!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Originally Posted by el shanko

http://thesandtrap.com/t/65291/bermuda-blend-greens-vs-bent-blend-greens

here you go

The link you provided is to this thread...

Tristan Hilton

My Equipment: 
PXG 0211 Driver (Diamana S+ 60; 10.5°) · PXG 0211 FWs (Diamana S+ 60; 15° and 21°) · PXG 0211 Hybrids (MMT 80; 22°, 25°, and 28°) · PXG 0311P Gen 2 Irons (SteelFiber i95; 7-PW) · Edel Wedges (KBS Hi-Rev; 50°, 55°, 60°) · Edel Classic Blade Putter (32") · Vice Pro or Maxfli Tour · Pinned Prism Rangefinder · Star Grips · Flightscope Mevo · TRUE Linkswear Shoes · Sun Mountain C130S Bag

On my MacBook Pro:
Analyzr Pro

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Originally Posted by tristanhilton85

The link you provided is to this thread...

oops sorry i google and it popped up my mistake. on to the gallows and off with the head....

Link to comment
Share on other sites


The link you provided is to this thread...

Ha Ha. Classic. .............…

Yours in earnest, Jason.
Call me Ernest, or EJ or Ernie.

PSA - "If you find yourself in a hole, STOP DIGGING!"

My Whackin' Sticks: :cleveland: 330cc 2003 Launcher 10.5*  :tmade: RBZ HL 3w  :nickent: 3DX DC 3H, 3DX RC 4H  :callaway: X-22 5-AW  :nike:SV tour 56* SW :mizuno: MP-T11 60* LW :bridgestone: customized TD-03 putter :tmade:Penta TP3   :aimpoint:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

I'm playing in a tournament this Friday and Saturday (well, I'm supposed to play, the snow storm may cancel this).  The course that the tournament is going to be at is different from most of the courses in the area that I live/play in because it has a Bermuda blend for the fairways and Bermuda greens.  I've played the course twice before, once back in October of last year and then I also played a "recon" round last Saturday afternoon.  Most courses in the area including my country club have bent grass for the greens and then some other kind of blend for the fairways (rye?).  I'm looking for any suggestions or things to be careful of while I'm playing in this tournament.  When my playing partner and I played the recon round on Saturday, it was cold (33 degrees) and snowing (flurries).  I noticed that the greens especially are much harder in setup (many more undulations and things like that).  The dormant bermuda greens seemed fast compared to the bent greens that I am used to playing on.  I also noticed a big difference on the fairways.  I'm pretty sure that they are a bermuda blend too, you could tell that the grass was dormant because of the color (or lack thereof) which leads me to believe that it's a bermuda blend.  The fairways seemed like carpet compared to the fairways that I am used to playing.  It seemed to me that I just had to make sure to hit down on the ball even more so than on the fairways that I am used to playing. Any insights on this?  Your help is appreciated!

In North Texas, we mostly only have Bermuda. I played a course with bent grass when I was in Alabama, and found myself missing most putts outside the hole. Bermuda I think usually breaks more, but is ESPECIALLY sensitive to grain. With it dormant, it will he harder to see the grain (light/dark green colors are an indicator in spring and summer), so my best advice is to walk up to the cup. Unless you're one of the first groups to play a freshly cut hole, you'll see the spots on each cup that the grass is mangled looking. Whatever direction on the cup that is at is down grain, so if you're putting toward the hole and the beat up side is on your side of the cup, you're putting against the grain, so it will be a slower putt. Visa versa, if that side is on the opposing side of the cup, you're going down grain, and can be lightning fast. Same goes for side to side grains. Typically the grain follows the slope of a break, but sometime can be counter to it. So when you read a putt to break 4" left, it may break 18" left or none at all, depending on what direction the grain goes. The rough is also different with Bermuda, as I believe it tends to grab the face more than other types of grass. Someone will have to confirm or correct me on that one, I'm not 100% on that fact. My best advice though, is make sure you go to the cup and try to get a read on the grain. It can be as much if not more important than the overall slope. Hit practice putts from all around the practice holes, at dying pace, and watch how quickly and hard it can move your ball. Good luck!

Your desire to change has to be greater than your desire to stay the same.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Originally Posted by Tifosinumerouno

In North Texas, we mostly only have Bermuda. I played a course with bent grass when I was in Alabama, and found myself missing most putts outside the hole. Bermuda I think usually breaks more, but is ESPECIALLY sensitive to grain. With it dormant, it will he harder to see the grain (light/dark green colors are an indicator in spring and summer), so my best advice is to walk up to the cup. Unless you're one of the first groups to play a freshly cut hole, you'll see the spots on each cup that the grass is mangled looking. Whatever direction on the cup that is at is down grain, so if you're putting toward the hole and the beat up side is on your side of the cup, you're putting against the grain, so it will be a slower putt. Visa versa, if that side is on the opposing side of the cup, you're going down grain, and can be lightning fast. Same goes for side to side grains. Typically the grain follows the slope of a break, but sometime can be counter to it. So when you read a putt to break 4" left, it may break 18" left or none at all, depending on what direction the grain goes.

The rough is also different with Bermuda, as I believe it tends to grab the face more than other types of grass. Someone will have to confirm or correct me on that one, I'm not 100% on that fact.

My best advice though, is make sure you go to the cup and try to get a read on the grain. It can be as much if not more important than the overall slope. Hit practice putts from all around the practice holes, at dying pace, and watch how quickly and hard it can move your ball. Good luck!

Thanks for the great advice!  Is it also true that the grass on bermuda greens grows towards the setting sun?  Thus if you are putting with the sun at your back, that would be into the grain?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

If the green is shinny your putting with the grain, so walk around noting the angle were its shiny, that will tell you the direction of the grain.

Also note around the hole, there will be a very clean cut side and a very ragged side, this is the grain. grain will run from clean cut to ragged side. So if you hit a putt that breaks down the clean cut as the high end, it will have a better chance of falling in on the high side than if it was ragged

As for the rough, if the ball is sitting down, its very hard to get the club through, and the club will stick, especially on short chips. If its sitting up, then its very much a flier lie, i've had balls just rocket out of the rough if its sitting on the upper half of the rough.

Bermuda grass is a tricky thing. It takes a lot of time to get use to. I played TPC a few weeks ago, and i couldn't figure it out, i had so many putts just be on the edge, it was frustrating. I know if i sank some of those, i would end up with a very good score on a very hard course.

Matt Dougherty, P.E.
 fasdfa dfdsaf 

What's in My Bag
Driver; :pxg: 0311 Gen 5,  3-Wood: 
:titleist: 917h3 ,  Hybrid:  :titleist: 915 2-Hybrid,  Irons: Sub 70 TAIII Fordged
Wedges: :edel: (52, 56, 60),  Putter: :edel:,  Ball: :snell: MTB,  Shoe: :true_linkswear:,  Rangfinder: :leupold:
Bag: :ping:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awards, Achievements, and Accolades

Thanks for the great advice!  Is it also true that the grass on bermuda greens grows towards the setting sun?  Thus if you are putting with the sun at your back, that would be into the grain?

In all honesty, I haven't played much golf in the evening so I couldn't confirm that, but as the grass gets longer during the day, the grain has even more affect on the ball. Also, if the green is dormant, you probably won't see a shiny/dark coloring to the grass, so the edge of the hole should be a better indicator.

Your desire to change has to be greater than your desire to stay the same.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Note: This thread is 4066 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Want to join this community?

    We'd love to have you!

    Sign Up
  • TST Partners

    TourStriker PlaneMate
    Golfer's Journal
    ShotScope
    The Stack System
    FlightScope Mevo
    Direct: Mevo, Mevo+, and Pro Package.

    Coupon Codes (save 10-15%): "IACAS" for Mevo/Stack, "IACASPLUS" for Mevo+/Pro Package, and "THESANDTRAP" for ShotScope.
  • Posts

    • @boogielicious and I are definitely in for the Stay & Play and will need the extra night's stay on Friday. I don't know what the plans are for our group on Friday but even if we don't make it for dinner with the rest of the Friday arrivals, I'll be more than happy to meet up somewhere for a beer or something.
    • Taking your dispersion and distance in consideration I analyzed the 4 posible ways to play the hole, or at least the ones that were listed here. I took the brown grass on the left as fescue were you need to punch out sideways to the fairway and rigth of the car path to be fescue too.  Driver "going for the green"  You have to aim more rigth, to the bunker in order to center your shotzone in between the fescue.  Wood of 240 over the bunkers I already like this one more for you. More room to land between the fescue. Balls in the fescue 11% down from 30% with driver. Improve of score from 4.55 to 4.40. 4 iron 210 yards besides the bunkers.    Also a wide area and your shot zone is better than previous ones. This makes almost the fescue dissapear. You really need to hit a bad one (sometimes shit happens). Because of that and only having 120 yards in this is the best choice so far. Down to 4.32 from 4.40. Finally the 6 Iron 180 yards to avoid all trouble.    Wide area an narrow dispersion for almost been in the fairway all the time. Similar than the previous one but 25 yards farther for the hole to avoid been in the bunkers. Average remains the same, 4.33 to 4.32.  Conclusion is easy. Either your 4iron or 6 iron of the tee are equaly good for you. Glad that you made par!
    • Wish I could have spent 5 minutes in the middle of the morning round to hit some balls at the range. Just did much more of right side through with keeping the shoulders feeling level (not dipping), and I was flushing them. Lol. Maybe too much focus on hands stuff while playing.
    • Last year I made an excel that can easily measure with my own SG data the average score for each club of the tee. Even the difference in score if you aim more left or right with the same club. I like it because it can be tweaked to account for different kind of rough, trees, hazards, greens etc.     As an example, On Par 5's that you have fescue on both sides were you can count them as a water hazard (penalty or punch out sideways), unless 3 wood or hybrid lands in a wider area between the fescue you should always hit driver. With a shorter club you are going to hit a couple less balls in the fescue than driver but you are not going to offset the fact that 100% of the shots are going to be played 30 or more yards longer. Here is a 560 par 5. Driver distance 280 yards total, 3 wood 250, hybrid 220. Distance between fescue is 30 yards (pretty tight). Dispersion for Driver is 62 yards. 56 for 3 wood and 49 for hybrid. Aiming of course at the middle of the fairway (20 yards wide) with driver you are going to hit 34% of balls on the fescue (17% left/17% right). 48% to the fairway and the rest to the rough.  The average score is going to be around 5.14. Looking at the result with 3 wood and hybrid you are going to hit less balls in the fescue but because of having longer 2nd shots you are going to score slightly worst. 5.17 and 5.25 respectively.    Things changes when the fescue is taller and you are probably going to loose the ball so changing the penalty of hitting there playing a 3 wood or hybrid gives a better score in the hole.  Off course 30 yards between penalty hazards is way to small. You normally have 60 or more, in that cases the score is going to be more close to 5 and been the Driver the weapon of choice.  The point is to see that no matter how tight the hole is, depending on the hole sometimes Driver is the play and sometimes 6 irons is the play. Is easy to see that on easy holes, but holes like this:  you need to crunch the numbers to find the best strategy.     
    • Very much so. I think the intimidation factor that a lot of people feel playing against someone who's actually very good is significant. I know that Winged Foot pride themselves on the strength of the club. I think they have something like 40-50 players who are plus something. Club championships there are pretty competitive. Can't imagine Oakmont isn't similar. The more I think about this, the more likely it seems that this club is legit. Winning also breeds confidence and I'm sure the other clubs when they play this one are expecting to lose - that can easily become a self-fulfilling prophecy.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to TST! Signing up is free, and you'll see fewer ads and can talk with fellow golf enthusiasts! By using TST, you agree to our Terms of Use, our Privacy Policy, and our Guidelines.

The popup will be closed in 10 seconds...