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Posted (edited)

Just wanted to share. I am 62 years old. Midhandicapper. I play with a Titleist 12 degree driver. The club feels good in my hands but I still produced a bit of a slice on many shots, enough of a slice to frequently put me in the rough. I struggled with this for years. I decided to experiment setting my driver to 13.5 degrees of loft and now my shots are straight as an arrow! Basically what I have now is equivalent to a strong 3 wood. Many pro’s sometimes tee off with a strong 3 wood, like Phil Mickelson or Tiger Woods. I did lose about 10 yards but for me it’s a small price to pay to get considerably straighter shots. I highly recommend people try it. In the past I did try teeing off with a 3 wood but found it hard to hit consistently.

Edited by arturo28mx

Posted

Yeah, a good 3W can ehance a person's game off the tee. I use my 14* quite often for tee shots. I use a very short tee height, maybe a 1/4" off the turf. 

Several times I will hit the 3W of the tee, go to my ball and use the 3W again off the turf. The low tee height, makes hitting off the turf easier. No real swing adjustments.

I have been messing around with a 12* (2W) full length driver. This, from my 10.5* that I have used for years. It's given me some ptetty decent ball flights. It's a little longer than my 3W, but also a tad bit shorter than my 10.5 driver. More carry, less roll seems to be the difference. 

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Posted

I've got a 12 degree Titleist as well, but I was thinking of going the other way for distance. I am 30, so the situation is different, but I picked this club up because I heard weaker loft on driver is good for people starting out, which is kind of the case for me. I have the tool, and definitely want to experiment with it. Have you messed with the draw/fade hosel adjustment at all. I am curious about how that works.

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Posted

In my case, I was not looking for distance. I was looking for fairways!!! I preferred a straighter ball flight, that's why I went to 13.5 degrees even if I lost a bit of distance. By the way, I do want to stress that for me hitting a 13.5 driver is easier than hitting a 13.5 three wood because of the larger sweet spot.

The draw fade adjustments have not really worked for me. I did set the driver to the most upright lie angle to compensate because I trimmed the shaft by an inch and a half. So  my setting is A3.

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Posted

I'm an old guy and HI HCP slow swinger so take with a grain of sale...I changed from a 10.5* driver in firm shaft a few years ago to 11.5*-12* drivers with shortened senior shafts of the right weights for me. I have consistently had longer drives. Yesterday I hit a 240 yd. drive, including roll, with a little draw. That was unusual for slow-swinging me. But my point is that it's the combination of loft, shaft flex and weight that seems to count. WhadoIknowtho? Best, -Marv 

DRIVER: Cleveland 588 Altitude ( Matrix Radix Sv Graphite, A) IRONS: Mizuno JPX-800 HD Irons & 3,4,5 JPX Fli-Hi (Grafalloy Prolaunch Blue Graphite, R); WEDGES: (Carried as needed) Artisan Golf 46, 50, 53, 56 low bounce, 56 high bounce; PUTTER: Mizuno TP Mills 9

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Note: This thread is 2266 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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