Question About the Swingweight for Metal Woods

[tpcollins]

I trimmed 1/2’ off my 6, 7, 8, & 9 irons and played with the powdered graphite in the bottom of the shaft and got them all at a D2 swing weight.  😀

I was having trouble with my driver last Sunday and I may have already trimmed a 1/2” off long ago as it’s at 44.5” now, but the swing weight is right between C2-C3.

I was striping my 43 1/4” 3 wood and it’s swing weight measures about a B7/B8 if I’ve measured correctly.

What should the swing weight be on metal woods? I have all Cobra LD Speed heads with Mitsubishi Bassara senior flex shafts that play more like regular flex. Thanks.

 

[tpcollins]

After thinking more about this, I think I did trim a 1/2” off long ago so I’ve lost 3 swing weight points right there.

I was thinking of trimming down to an even 44” so that would drop 6 points total and need 12 grams of lead powder to get back to what it originally was.  I’d probably need a 1/4” to get a trimmed down cork to the bottom of the shaft.

I used to crush this driver about 10 years ago but I’m sure I’ve shrunk in height a bit more over the that time period.

 

[boogielicious]

15 hours ago, tpcollins said:

I trimmed 1/2’ off my 6, 7, 8, & 9 irons and played with the powdered graphite in the bottom of the shaft and got them all at a D2 swing weight.  😀

I was having trouble with my driver last Sunday and I may have already trimmed a 1/2” off long ago as it’s at 44.5” now, but the swing weight is right between C2-C3.

I was striping my 43 1/4” 3 wood and it’s swing weight measures about a B7/B8 if I’ve measured correctly.

What should the swing weight be on metal woods? I have all Cobra LD Speed heads with Mitsubishi Bassara senior flex shafts that play more like regular flex. Thanks.

 

Most woods and drivers are around D2 if you read the OEM specs. I recommend getting some lead tape and adding weight to see if you can feel the difference. Or, depending on your driver, you can get heavier weights to make the adjustments. Golfworks has weights for some OEM drivers and woods or you can try eBay.

[tpcollins]

Thanks for the reply. 

 

I weighed a quarter and it’s about 5.7 grams, and I taped it to the top of the head near the shaft. It  moved the balance point a fat 1/4” closer to the head and the SW calculator moved it from C2/C3 to a solid C7.

If I replaced that quarter with lead powder and a cork, it would be further up the shaft and may only be a C6 or so.

Since I’m more concerned with accuracy than distance, I plan to gnaw another 1/2” off for an overall length of 44”.  I’ll tape 2 quarters on top of the head, use Scotch tape to hold  the grip in place and see what the swing weight looks like. I might need a snitch more than 11.4 grams.

I think somewhere around a C8-C9 would work best for me. We’ll see how it goes.

  

 

 

[tpcollins]

I’m bummed.

I pulled the grip off and noticed it felt heavy - a Golf Pride at 57.74 grams. I had one Cobra grip left and it weighed 5.3 grams less at 52.43.

I taped 2 quarters (11.25 grams) on top of the driver right in front of the hosel and taped the lighter Cobra grip under the shaft and measured the balance point and new weight. I got a C8 which the calculator said was for a senior.

So I rounded up to 180 grains on my powder scale (11.66 grams) and trimmed down a cork plug. I had a 2’ length of 3/16” rod (1/4” wouldn’t go to the bottom) and chased it with a 1/2” rod to seat it.

I had a lot of trouble getting the 3/16” and when I did, the cork and powder fell out. I think the rod imbedded into the cork and pulled out with the rod. So I guess I’ll take it over to the Pro Shop in Ann Arbor and let them put the weight in the bottom of the shaft - I assume they have better tools than I do.