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Posted (edited)

If you do your own clubwork and most of your fitment, then do be aware that slapping fat grips on 'em will have a big impact on swingweights. BITD I had some callous issues that I do think were caused by too-small grips. The minute I started looking at larger grips in modern times, I knew that was likely the case.  I require a midsized grip and like them very much. I suppose BITD it was just a bunch of tape under to get the diameter I need.  I used extra tape on my wedges (more on lower portion), used less taper on my woods, then used 2-wraps extra in all others. Why all the different? So I could see what I like. So far I like it all as I've done it.

I started out using SW calculators to approximate SW's but this is slow and tedious at best compared to a scale designed for SW.

I wasn't truly impressed with SW importance until I FELT the difference during a round of golf. I had two 4-irons in the bag, one with midsized grip (Wilson STB), and no adjustment (probably around C9-D0 at that time), the other an "as-issued" Hogan PC at D2.  I cracked off a good shot with the Wilson, so I grabbed the Hogan to hit another for comparison. It was raining and I was the only guy out there. In my practice swing with the Hogan I felt something immediately different.  Instead of the clubhead disappearing in my backswing I could FEEL IT!!!.  This was my AHA! SW matters a lot moment.  I was really struggling to get my feel back (decades off) and at that exact moment I KNEW part of the problem.  When I hit the Hogan I caught it a little too much on the toe and put it up there in the vicinity of the Wilson shot-playable but not as pretty as I'd hoped.

So over the next few weeks I started adding Pb tape to my blades and measuring and weighing for the online SW calculators. Eventually I found a good used SW scale and bought it. In the process I found that I had two poorly matched clubs from Wilson.  My 8 and PW were way underweight in relation to the rest of the set.  MOF I measured my spare 8-iron and found it to match my set better (at one time my original 8 was lost).  I had gotten most of my Wilson set SW adjusted with the calculators, and then I rechecked and fine-tuned with the Maltby scale.  Now It's all done but my 4-wood (still OEM, but needs gripping up).  Unsightly as it may be, I've got a bunch of tape on my clubs, fresh/fitted grips, and now they're all swinging with proper feel throughout the set. 

I suppose my "saving grace" on the 8 and PW being so underweight (but always faves) was that I swing them more than any other club.  For chips and pitches those are my go-to clubs and the ones I practiced with constantly. Now I change up more. For modern folks: I think my PW is 50 and the SW is 55.

When I re-grip the Hogans, it'll go a lot faster.  Also there were no big outliers when I calculated them up-unlike the Wilson set.

I may try tungsten tape on them. Or I could add some weight to the shaft. I may do both. 

Just thought I'd share my experience for those who piddle with their own stuff. I know most folks don't, but I'm a handy craftsman sort of guy and like tweaking things for optimum performance and functionality.

edit: Finding those two miss-matched Wilsons has impressed upon me to check every set I ever acquire from now on. The scale will make that a much faster process. Life is too short to swing mixed up clubs unknowingly.

Edited by Wade Patton

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Posted

People switching putter grips have to be aware of the same type of thing, perhaps even more so.

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Posted
2 hours ago, Wade Patton said:

I may try tungsten tape on them. Or I could add some weight to the shaft. I may do both. 

Golfworks has tip weights for this purpose. I use the brass ones because they are reusable and don’t fall apart if you need to re-epoxy the head. I’ve found that going from a standard grip like a GolfPride Tour Velvet at about 50g to and MCC+4 Midsize, 66g, requires an 8 to 10g tip weight depending on the shaft.

https://www.golfworks.com/brass-tip-weights/p/btwv/

One trick I developed is saving an old grip that I cut off and mounting it on the shaft and preassembling the club with the tip weight in it plus the ferrule. Then I put this on the SW scale and see the results. This only works if the shaft has already be butt trimmed to length.

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  • 2 months later...
Posted
On 9/5/2022 at 9:55 AM, iacas said:

People switching putter grips have to be aware of the same type of thing, perhaps even more so.

Ouch, I never thought of that. :-(


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    • Nah, man. People have been testing clubs like this for decades at this point. Even 35 years. @M2R, are you AskGolfNut? If you're not, you seem to have fully bought into the cult or something. So many links to so many videos… Here's an issue, too: - A drop of 0.06 is a drop with a 90 MPH 7I having a ball speed of 117 and dropping it to 111.6, which is going to be nearly 15 yards, which is far more than what a "3% distance loss" indicates (and is even more than a 4.6% distance loss). - You're okay using a percentage with small numbers and saying "they're close" and "1.3 to 1.24 is only 4.6%," but then you excuse the massive 53% difference that going from 3% to 4.6% represents. That's a hell of an error! - That guy in the Elite video is swinging his 7I at 70 MPH. C'mon. My 5' tall daughter swings hers faster than that.
    • Yea but that is sort of my quandary, I sometimes see posts where people causally say this club is more forgiving, a little more forgiving, less forgiving, ad nauseum. But what the heck are they really quantifying? The proclamation of something as fact is not authoritative, even less so as I don't know what the basis for that statement is. For my entire golfing experience, I thought of forgiveness as how much distance front to back is lost hitting the face in non-optimal locations. Anything right or left is on me and delivery issues. But I also have to clarify that my experience is only with irons, I never got to the point of having any confidence or consistency with anything longer. I feel that is rather the point, as much as possible, to quantify the losses by trying to eliminate all the variables except the one you want to investigate. Or, I feel like we agree. Compared to the variables introduced by a golfer's delivery and the variables introduced by lie conditions, the losses from missing the optimal strike location might be so small as to almost be noise over a larger area than a pea.  In which case it seems that your objection is that the 0-3% area is being depicted as too large. Which I will address below. For statements that is absurd and true 100% sweet spot is tiny for all clubs. You will need to provide some objective data to back that up and also define what true 100% sweet spot is. If you mean the area where there are 0 losses, then yes. While true, I do not feel like a not practical or useful definition for what I would like to know. For strikes on irons away from the optimal location "in measurable and quantifiable results how many yards, or feet, does that translate into?"   In my opinion it ok to be dubious but I feel like we need people attempting this sort of data driven investigation. Even if they are wrong in some things at least they are moving the discussion forward. And he has been changing the maps and the way data is interpreted along the way. So, he admits to some of the ideas he started with as being wrong. It is not like we all have not been in that situation 😄 And in any case to proceed forward I feel will require supporting or refuting data. To which as I stated above, I do not have any experience in drivers so I cannot comment on that. But I would like to comment on irons as far as these heat maps. In a video by Elite Performance Golf Studios - The TRUTH About Forgiveness! Game Improvement vs Blade vs Players Distance SLOW SWING SPEED! and going back to ~12:50 will show the reference data for the Pro 241. I can use that to check AskGolfNut's heat map for the Pro 241: a 16mm heel, 5mm low produced a loss of efficiency from 1.3 down to 1.24 or ~4.6%. Looking at AskGolfNut's heatmap it predicts a loss of 3%. Is that good or bad? I do not know but given the possible variations I am going to say it is ok. That location is very close to where the head map goes to 4%, these are very small numbers, and rounding could be playing some part. But for sure I am going to say it is not absurd. Looking at one data point is absurd, but I am not going to spend time on more because IME people who are interested will do their own research and those not interested cannot be persuaded by any amount of data. However, the overall conclusion that I got from that video was that between the three clubs there is a difference in distance forgiveness, but it is not very much. Without some robot testing or something similar the human element in the testing makes it difficult to say is it 1 yard, or 2, or 3?  
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