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Posted

Very old post but I will add my 2 cents and say I use jb weld on my irons because it's so strong rated about 4000 psi and is thick with it's 2 part steel and hardener that it works well to bond to the tip and inside of the hosel. Don't use this product on woods that you intend o taking apart your irons work better because you can use a blow torch and just heat the hell out of em being that jb weld takes forever to get off.


Posted

I build custom fishing rods. All epoxies are not the same. The thin stuff you get at the hardware store , 5 min or 8 hour cure , are considerably harder and more brittle than the paste type long cure time are. I don't equate brittle with being good in a club application . The paste types tend have "some flex" built into the formula. I feel this is better for the shock a club head experiences each time it's struck. Deviating from the mix ratios will change the properties too.

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Posted
11 hours ago, chilepepper said:

I build custom fishing rods. All epoxies are not the same. The thin stuff you get at the hardware store , 5 min or 8 hour cure , are considerably harder and more brittle than the paste type long cure time are. I don't equate brittle with being good in a club application . The paste types tend have "some flex" built into the formula. I feel this is better for the shock a club head experiences each time it's struck. Deviating from the mix ratios will change the properties too.

There are quick cure club epoxies and more standard 24-48 hour cure types.  When I built my own clubs, I used the longer cure type.  I wouldn't use one like @Mike Boatright suggests that takes excessive heat to release, because you could damage either the shaft or the hosel if it's heated too much.  There are perfectly good epoxies that are designed to release at around 400°F, which is more than enough for golf club use.

Rick

"He who has the fastest cart will never have a bad lie."

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  • 4 years later...
Posted

I have re shafted 5 or 6 clubs now including 3 drivers.  I use a product called LePage gel epoxy. (from Canada, at Home Depot and other places).  It is in a syringe and is a 2 part epoxy.  It states that it ready to go in 5 minutes.   Mix equal amounts and stir it up.  It sets up rather quickly.  Once the shaft has been assembled,  leave it alone.  I always wait at least 24 hours for it to fully cure (despite what the packaging states.   So far I have had no issues at all.  (Thank you Lord).   Hope this helps others who have one or two shafts to replace and dont want to pay someone to do something that can easily be done by you in your garage.  


Note: This thread is 1934 days old. We appreciate that you found this thread instead of starting a new one, but if you plan to post here please make sure it's still relevant. If not, please start a new topic. Thank you!

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